Our first grandchild’s first Thanksgiving was a celebration of traditions, dinnertime between naps, and gratitude beyond measure for a new generation. A solo hike on the following Saturday afforded me quiet time for introspection on how life is changing.
Hanging Rock State Park is in the Sauratown Mountains, named for the Saura Indians, early inhabitants of the region. The park’s infrastructure was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) between 1935 and 1942, including a dam to create Park Lake, a stone bath house, trails, roads and a steel fire tower that was, unfortunately, later destroyed by fire. Soon it was replaced by a stone fire tower. Seems that Mother Nature did not care for this either, as the stone tower was in use for only a few years before it suffered hurricane damage that required its decommissioning. It was converted to the observation tower that stands today.
A section of my route today is Hike #16 of Great Day Hikes of North Carolina’s Mountains-to-Sea Trail. I hiked this section going west to east back in March 2010. That day was not much fun in a drenching rain, foggy at the summit and no views from the lookout tower.
On this chilly, still, intensely blue sky morning I arrived at the Hanging Rock Lake parking lot, apparently the first person up and ready to hike.
As you can see, signage here is detailed and comprehensive to the point that intersection signs are like pages from a book, including directional arrows and mileages, blaze colors and shapes – and I’m happy to see this. I’ve been in too many local and state parks with tangles of intersecting trails, inadequate signage, and confused hikers.
But first of all, you need to know where you want to go. I was looking for the Moore’s Wall Loop Trail, the red circle blaze that just happens to run concurrently with the MST white circle blaze and the Lake Trail white hexagon blaze.
I thought I smelled smoke! There were just a few tents and campers in the campground, smart people who watched the weather forecast and decided it was a great opportunity to spend a night outside. Wish I’d thought of it.
The trail rises along a series of stone steps. I knew I was going to climb A LOT OF THEM. Two hikers jauntily descending told me they counted 700 so far. My pace was steady but unhurried as I warmed up, still on fresh legs so the steps didn’t hurt (yet), and I was glad of the effort required.
Did I mention that this was my beginning training for hiking the Centennial Trail in South Dakota in June 2023?
Crunchy dry fall leaves blanketed the ground. They were not yet flattened or pulverized by walkers, making it hard to discern the terrain – are they covering up a dip in the trail or a protruding rock?
I had the tower to myself (seriously, where IS everybody?) Each side features photographs identifying the mountain peaks and distances.
but I could see Grandfather Mountain 88 miles away!
View south (no photo): I couldn’t make out Charlotte, but I did see the tall buildings of downtown Winston-Salem
Peaceful rare air, suspended in time, looking at the same view of natural features that indigenous peoples would have used for millenia as waypoints for navigation (minus the buildings, of course).
I left the tower behind and continued the loop counterclockwise along the ridge walk of Moore’s Wall, the red circle blazes fewer and farther between.
After a steep descent, I reached an intersection where a left turn continues on Moore’s Wall Loop Trail back to the lake parking lot. A right turn is the beginning of Tory’s Den Trail (blue dot blaze) and continuing on MST (white dot blaze). Tory’s Den, here I come!
This trail section started out as a pleasant walk, then a little bit of up, then a long gradual descent that I suspected would be my nemesis on the return.
Tory’s Den Trail intersects Ruben Mountain Trail twice on the left, so take note – a wrong turn will take you 3 miles around Ruben Mountain Trail with no other intersections. This is a horse trail, too, so watch out for horse poop under those leaves!
The trail grade levels out to beautiful open forest, very little undergrowth, ankle-deep leaves rustling under my feet, gray branches against the blue sky, a few scampering squirrels: Can you hear me humming, “Oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day!”
On my right, Moore’s Wall rises straight and tall and I strained to see the observation platform through the bare branches – found it! Would be impossible to see when the trees are leafed out.
It’s about 2.5 miles from the beginning of Tory’s Den Trail to the crossing at Charlie Young Road, then a quarter mile of un-scenic trail following a power line cut (yuck, efficient but dull). At the parking area for Tory’s Den & Falls I felt accomplished and ready for a short walk…but wait a minute…more stairs! Lots more stairs!
Tory’s Den is a cave where Loyalists hid during the Revolutionary War until Patriots found them and…well, ask Google. The cave is worth visiting just as an awesome natural feature. Had to take my own photos because, you know, solitude.
Some more steps to Tory’s Waterfall (nothin’ for free here at Hanging Rock SP). The flow wasn’t spectacular, but after the first couple of cascades the water tumbles sort of sideways in pretty little cascades along the rock wall – mesmerizing whispery sounds. I ate lunch there in pure joy at being outside.
Aahhhh…where’s my car? About 4.4 miles back at the lake parking area. Retraced my steps, the gradual ascent to the intersection with Ruben Mountain Trail, feeling a little thigh fatigue. Next, the serious uphill that I expected – the only part of my hike today that required concentration and pep talking, a couple of pauses to catch my breath. I rejoined the Moore’s Wall Loop Trail and its gentle descent for the last mile or so to the lake.
My route mileage was about 10.4 miles, but you can park at the Tory’s Den parking lot and hike a shorter out-and-back route to Tory’s Den, Tory’s Waterfall and Moore’s Knob Observation Tower, about 8 miles round trip.
The drive home to Charlotte wasn’t the usual buzz kill, less traffic because of the holiday. I relished a sense of accomplishment and appreciation for my self-care in prioritizing this hike today. Home before 5pm, I joined Jim on our back porch for happy hour and Thanksgiving leftovers. Gratitude.
it is gratitude that makes us joyful.”
1 comment:
Thoroughly enjoyed your post! Your writing style is engaging. Excited for more from you!
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