From Ladders To Carriage Roads

MST – Day 35 – 9/29/10 – Holloway Road to Highway 321 - 13.8 Miles

Today’s hike encompasses two section highlights for me: the Boone Fork Trail and Moses Cone Memorial Park. But first we had to knock out the last couple of miles of the Tanawha Trail.

We finished at Holloway Road yesterday because Danny and I could not picture clearly where the Tanawha Trail links with the Boone Fork Trail – the best we know is that the joining point is somewhere near (in?) Julian Price Park. Early in the morning we started off, back to Holloway Road, through another stile into head-high grasses, clutching Scot Ward’s pages. We no longer had a map and we knew that the trail would switch often between old road beds, new trail and pasture land.

First read Danny’s blog entry here to get some background on Moses Cone Memorial Park. Also, check out her Blowing Rock hikes website page and then buy her book.

Apple trees planted by long-gone residents are still producing















 

The MST circles and Tanawha feathers led us easily to the junction and we turned our attention to the Boone Fork Trail.















Several years ago I hiked the loop from the Julian Price Park picnic area that includes Boone Fork, a moderate five-miler that offers the excitement of water, bridges, boulders and a ladder.

For Danny and me the thrill factor was kicked up a notch by crossing Boone Fork. It is a very big crossing and I had brought my Crocs, but the challenge of rock hopping is one of my favorite things. Someday Danny will get to say “I told you so” when I get wet but today I triumphed. Immediately on the far side is a great campsite and we took a few minutes to eat and chill.




After Boone Fork the trail makes some moderate climbs. We crossed a forest road or two, climbed over a stile, and came to Rich Mountain Trail, one of the carriage roads in Moses Cone Park. I was slightly disoriented, thinking that we would walk on this trail past the Flat Top fire tower. [Back on a sunny day in April 2007 I hiked up to the fire tower while Jim rode the parkway on his bike – we were each testing our limits for our future “50” projects. But my hike then was on the Flat Top Trail, not Rich Mountain.] Today we descended on the Rich Mountain Trail back towards Moses Cone Manor, switching to other carriage roads and crossing Trout Lake Dam before passing underneath the Blue Ridge Parkway and circling back to the centerpiece of the park, Cone Manor.

One point of interest: on an eye level rock ledge beside the path was a curious collection of small items, a piece of glass, a hair clip, a berry, a flower, a piece of candy, a still life arrangement from which great stories could be created. The display reminded me of a Girl Scout camp tradition called Terebithia, a magical kingdom where fairies (older Scouts) build tiny houses and playgrounds for mortals to see (younger Scouts). Traditions and stories are important in Girl Scouting…and in the hiking world too.



We met other hikers and horse riders as the clouds came in and drizzling rain began. By the time we reached Cone Manor visibility was very limited – no great photos of the view that the house normally commands. We took another break at the restrooms nearby and chatted with a couple there who were familiar with the MST.

The remainder of the hike was uneventful, a slow downhill saunter on yet another gravel carriage road. The carriage road ended and we turned right onto Old Camp Catawba Road. A few minutes later we stood facing the four lanes of busy traffic of Highway 321. Seems there should be some safer and saner way to tie this section of the trail into the next one (not yet completed). But for now there is no choice but a mad dash across to Danny’s car. We were finished for another day and it was time to head home.

Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers, the mountain and the sea, are excellent schoolmasters, and teach some of us more than we can ever learn from books. ~John Lubbock

The Tanawha Trail

MST – Day 34 – 9/28/10 – Beacon Heights to Holloway Road – 11.5 Miles

Rain or shine? Doesn’t matter, we’re hiking anyway. But now the venue moves far away from our cozy cabin alongside Linville Gorge, so we are up early, cleaning up and locking the door and heading towards Grandfather Mountain. Today we will walk right off the NatGeo map on the long-anticipated Tanawha Trail that runs concurrently with the Mountains-to-Sea Trail and spend the night in Blowing Rock.

I’ve hiked a short section of the Tanawha previously with my son Brett. Danny is familiar with the entire trail and features a particularly stellar section of it in her book, Hiking North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Heritage, along with a brief history of the trail. Will it be spectacular today or will it be an elusive white-out like Linville Gorge? As we drove to arrange the car shuttle, the wind blew fiercely and clouds shrouded the Parkway. Lynn Cove Viaduct? Couldn’t see a thing. But by the time we arrived back at our starting point (Beacon Heights) the blue sky had broken through. For the first couple of hours on the trail the wind continued to blow hard, pushing the clouds up and over the mountains.  

The Parkway is right above us


 Always take advantage of a restroom. At the Lynn Cove Visitor Center we had a quick snack. They had a copy of Danny’s book so she signed it. A few minutes later a couple came in looking for trail information, so the clerk sold the book to them and Danny personalized it. Timing is everything.  

Walking underneath the viaduct is awesome.

House-sized boulders, lots of scrambling around, but I look a little sleepy

Impressive stone step work by trail builders

Slow going up to Rough Ridge, but the reward for our trail choice – a stellar blue sky with a white cloud outlining Grand- father’s profile.








 

A classic shot of the Lynn Cove Viaduct and a tinge of fall color - look very closely at the far left and you can see the tower on Grand- mother Mountain

What better place for a “first lunch”? Still windy so we didn’t overstay, but we took the time for photos from different vantage points. We encountered other hikers coming up the approach trail from the Rough Ridge parking area. Even if you’re “not a hiker” the short but steep walk up to Rough Ridge is worth the effort. According to Randy Johnson in his book, Hiking North Carolina: “This may be the easiest Parkway path to an awesome view.” As we started our descent, Danny commented that we will never be at such high elevation again on our Mountains-to-Sea adventure. I was thrilled that we had such spectacular views since we missed so much the day before.

But it’s not over yet. The second half of our hike was mild, an easy trail, and we made up some time. To my surprise, the last mile opened up to pastures and friendly cows. One thing the MST guarantees is variety!

I cannot resist a fun fungi photo

Danny coming through a stile bearing the MST white circle blaze and the Tanawha Trail white feather blaze










 

Seeing double?

Another admirer for Danny

Once again, timing is everything: as we were putting our stuff into my car at the hike’s end, a car drove by, slowed down, and the woman passenger looked at Danny and exclaimed, “You’re the woman who wrote the book!” She and her husband jumped out, produced their copy of Danny’s book, and chatted up a storm while Danny personalized it. I think I’ll get a badge that says, “I’m With Her” – haha! Seriously, though, I am always pleased to see people that have Danny’s books because they are complimentary and excited – they think her hiking guides are great and I do too.

 Next we searched for the terminus of the following day’s hike, then checked into our Blowing Rock hotel and had dinner at Knight’s On Main. Danny tried to talk to me about future hike plans but I had mentally checked out. I’ve concluded that 3 days, 3 nights is my maximum before thoughts and responsibilities from other aspects of my life creep back in. We’ve got one more hike to go for this leg and then it’s back to everyday life.

Read Danny's blog about the day here.

Sweet the rain's new fall, sunlit from heaven

Like the first dewfall on the first day...

Praise with elation, praise every morning

God's re-creation of the new day ~ Cat Stevens, "Morning Has Broken"