Oregon 2024: Arrival & Columbia River Gorge Waterfalls

 Oregon 2024: Arrival & Columbia River Gorge Waterfalls
7/23/24 & 7/24/24 – 6.7 Miles

Planning a visit to Oregon was a puzzle from the start – so many natural wonders to explore! The days kept adding on, Columbia River Gorge, Mt. Hood, Crater Lake National Park, everything on the coast, Astoria, don’t forget Lewis & Clark, and a big finish in weird Portland. Wine! Food! Believe it or not, other adventures got squeezed onto the itinerary (one got deleted).

Jim and I flew from Charlotte (CLT) to Portland (PDX) and took a 10-minute taxi ride to a car rental place that saved us hundreds…Avoid car rentals at airports.

We left Oregon immediately, crossing the I-205 bridge into Washington for a scenic drive along the Columbia River. Eating? Drinking? Hiking? All of that can wait until Jim (a career mechanical engineer in power generation) checks out the Bonneville Lock and Dam, a major run-of-river hydroelectric facility, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in the 1930s. 

At the Washington Shore Visitor Center we were just in time for a plant tour. Jim was a-tingle with geek excitement. For an hour we walked up and down stairs and catwalks as a National Parks ranger enthusiastically explained the technology. Jim knew it all but kept quiet and thanked the ranger for a great tour. (Have you ever been on a tour where that one participant “knows” more than the guide? Don’t be that person.)

We crossed the river back into Oregon via the Bridge of the Gods. A milestone for hikers on the Pacific Coast Trail (PCT) is walking across this bridge. (You can Google the legend behind the name or read here and here.) 

Oops, we’ve slipped into hangry mode, which calls for a mandatory stop at
Thunder Island Brewing Company in the town of Cascade Locks

In Hood River we stocked up on food, coffee and adult beverages at Safeway (our go-to brand for the rest of our Oregon trip, in case they want to contact us for an endorsement.) Our Airbnb for the first few nights was a couple of miles outside of town. Our favorite type is a studio apartment over a detached garage, quiet and private, and this was a gem: a deck with a double swing, wifi, amazingly comfy bed and pillows, blackout curtains…we were asleep before the sun went down.

Of course we were wide awake before 6:00 a.m., 55 degrees, sipping morning coffee on the deck in that cushy double swing. Our view was the definition of pastoral: a small field with a little barn, flower gardens, giant evergreen trees. How about a second cup of coffee?

Take a breath for a new day. 

Waterfalls in Columbia Gorge: Do we need to get parking passes, book a tour, or just take our chances driving? Social media makes you think that the area is much too congested and you MUST pay somebody, so I booked the 9:00 a.m. Waterfall Trolley from the town of Corbett that drives along Scenic Highway 30, dropping people off at waterfalls. 

Live and learn: The parking lots of most of the waterfalls had plenty of space and we could have walked between some of them. So…we could easily have driven and saved ourselves some time, since we had to take the trolley back to our car in Corbett. I’m sure crowds often occur, just not today.

We hopped off the trolley at Wahkeena Falls parking, got our bearings and started walking

You know how you stop and take photos at the first glimpse of a water feature…

…then take 50 more steps and the upper tier/fuller view is in front of you?
Wahkeena Falls was like that – Wow!  

Switchbacks ascend to Lemmons Viewpoint for a wide view across the Columbia River

We hiked further up the trail to Fairy Falls. My confidence wavered on the steep climb and I questioned my stamina not for the last time. Meanwhile, we were surrounded by every shade of green green green and purple blossoms.

Fairy Falls

We checked our timing for the best route to Multnomah Falls and decided to backtrack to the parking lot and take the Return Trail #442. Hindsight: continuing on the Wahkeena/Multnomah Falls loop would have been a bit longer, but more interesting - next time! 

Behind the Visitor Center, Jim and I merged with the multitudes for the Disneyfied photo op of Multnomah Falls. The sun was in the exact wrong spot for photos and I deleted most of my attempts. I couldn’t fit the entire drop in one frame. Yet, our enchantment with the 620-foot waterfall (the tallest in Oregon) was undiminished. Come on, look at the scale of the teeny-tiny people on the teeny-tiny Benson Bridge! 

But wait, we can hike the Larch Mountain Trail #441 to the “top” of Upper Multnomah Falls! Another steep climb, lots more people, and more reasons to stop and appreciate the thunderous power of falling water.

Walking across Benson Bridge

The trail turns left at Multnomah Creek and continues on, while a short walk to the right leads to a viewing platform at the top of the falls. 

Top of Multnomah Falls

Okay, one for Instagram

Return hike on Larch Mountain Trail, no longer gasping for breath, we could now appreciate
 the Columbia River in front of us

Back at the Visitor Center, I turned for a final look back, and the sun had moved enough
 for one full length shot

We hopped on the trolley to return to our car, then drove eastward on Scenic Highway 30 with time for another stop at two waterfalls: Horsetail Falls and Ponytail Falls.

Horsetail Falls is viewable as a drive-by, but unless you’re on the way to an emergency room should park and walk up close to appreciate this beauty. It is an exquisite cascade that narrows, then spreads out again. The framing of illuminated leaves was perfect.

Mother Nature says, “if you like this, hold my beer.” Horsetail Falls Trail #438 ascends to more (checks Google for synonyms for “amazing”) breathtaking works of art.

Ponytail Falls is a freefall plunge into a pool with an amphitheater carved out behind it. I was so delighted I ran out of words! Little did I know that we would see more waterfalls of this type during our Oregon adventures.

Satisfied with a beautiful first day in Columbia River Gorge, Jim and I returned to Hood River. We found beer and cider at Full Sail Brewing, a great stop for an early dinner.

Still not ready to call it quits, we also stopped at Cider Crush Café, a funky spot with awnings and picnic tables and a space for salsa lessons! We chatted with an elderly couple, and when her husband got up to dance, the woman commented that she used to dance too but “my body doesn’t work anymore.” Still, she likes to watch others have fun.

“Just let go – and fall like a little waterfall.”
 ~Bob Ross

South Mountains State Park: IssaVibe Adventures Juneteenth Hike

 South Mountains State Park: IssaVibe Adventures Juneteenth Hike - 6/23/24

In 2017 three friends, Ali Steele, Lisa Colvin and Charles Gbenyon, Jr., went on a waterfall hike in North Carolina and noted that there were no Black people on the trails besides themselves. They discussed how important the outdoors is to both body and spirit and how to bring the experience to more people of color. That day the mission called IssaVibe Adventures was born. The Black-owned organization is based “on the principles of exposing Black people to various outdoor activities that are not very common for our demographic. We yearn to diversify nature through visuals, engagement, and making our people feel welcome and comfortable in nature.”

IssaVibe Adventures is based in Charlotte, NC and offers outdoor activities about once a month, including hiking, kayaking, yoga, and a “community unity” support mission for people experiencing homelessness. Anyone is welcome to join any event.

Charles Gbenyon was a keynote speaker at the Friends of the Mountains-To-Sea Trail annual Gathering in 2023 and all three founders led a roundtable breakout session. Mutual love for the outdoors and honest conversations came together for a wonderful learning time. 

Ali Steele, me, Lisa Colvin and Charles Gbenyon, Jr.

In 2024, IssaVibe held a conference in Charlotte called “Reclaiming the Outdoors” and Friends of the MST supported as a sponsor. The first day of the conference had speakers on topics from state parks to meditation techniques to outdoor safety to farming practices – another amazing learning and sharing time.

The second day of “Reclaiming the Outdoors” was a hike at South Mountains State Park and I signed up with another Friends of the MST member. We joined the IssaVibe folks (25 hikers in all) at the picnic parking area, and that’s when I realized that this would be different than any group hike I’d ever been on.

A hiker played rhythms on his djembe drum and did call-and-response as Ali led us on
High Shoals Falls Trail to the waterfall

It was a busy Saturday in the park and lots of other hikers danced along. So much excitement and chatter and laughter! There were many connections and one-on-one conversations as we walked along, crossing bridges on the ground and in our hearts.

High Shoals Falls

On the return hike we took the side trail to Big Bear Falls, a broad cascade that tumbles into a large pool and a series of smaller cascades and pools below. On a hot day, some sat on the rocks with their feet in the water, some waded, and some went all in.

Then Ali called everyone together and introduced his singing bowl. He led us in a Juneteenth remembrance of ancestors, chants, and breathing exercises – another new experience for me with a group of hikers. It was a very special moment.

We walked back to the picnic shelter for food and yoga as a flute played softly in the background. (I now had a whole new appreciation for this.) The food was a full-on cookout, not bring-your-own-cheese-and-crackers, and I stuffed myself. Sadly, I had to leave before yoga but I’ll plan better next time.

I’ve been implicitly taught that listening to the birds and the stillness of the forest, maybe stopping for a quick lunch, is how hiking is done (and I do enjoy that). But this day with IssaVibe showed me that of course there is more than one way to enjoy the outdoors. Singing, dancing, laughing, splashing, sharing and communing are all part of the celebration! The outdoors is for everyone and everyone should feel welcomed and included. I carry this experience with me now and try to see with new eyes.

“Nature is our greatest spiritual teacher.”
 ~Louie Schwartzberg

North Carolina State Parks: Goose Creek State Park

 North Carolina State Parks: Goose Creek State Park
3 Miles – 6/6/24

Yesterday’s discoveries in Eastern NC left me happy as a lark. The land, the history, and the people were awe-inspiring! This morning I woke up wondering, could I have just one more little adventure before I face the long drive back home to Charlotte? Of course.

The headwaters of the Tar River in North Carolina begin 215 miles inland, flowing eastward to the Atlantic Ocean. At the town of Washington, this freshwater river meets brackish water and becomes the Pamlico River which flows into Pamlico Sound, the second largest estuary system in the U.S.

Among the communities along the shores of Pamlico River are the towns of Washington and Bath. Each has a unique character and both have centuries of history to share. Visitors can spend a day or a week exploring, learning and eating. In Washington, I recommend starting at the North Carolina Estuarium, an outstanding environmental center, and the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum, housed in a caboose on Main Street. Bath’s claims to fame include status as the oldest town in NC, the oldest church building in NC (St. Thomas Episcopal Church) and home of the pirate known as Edward “Blackbeard” Teach.

Leesa Jones, founder of the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum

St. Thomas Episcopal Church

On the banks of the Pamlico River, about halfway between Washington and Bath, is Goose Creek State Park. It has a big shiny Visitor Center where I stamped my NC State Parks passport and got my bearings for exploring in a limited time frame (park map link here). Decisions to make about trails to hike.

First I drove around to check out the family campground (very few trees, y’all, so think about that summer heat) and the primitive camping area near Goose Creek.  I parked where the main road ends at a large picnic area with (yay!) restrooms. 

Before we start walking, let’s learn about the slinky snakes that live in the neighborhood

From the picnic area, a shady path leads to the official swim beach. Early morning and it was already steamy, with a welcome breeze by the water to keep biting bugs away.

Live Oak Trail, Mallard Creek Loop and Huckleberry Trail form a nice loop along the Pamlico River and Mallard Creek and through pine forest, with a couple of short interconnecting paths. I used the Strava app to keep me on track today. 

Live Oak Trail is just as it says, majestic trees dripping with Spanish moss, dipping limbs down into the water, swaying in the breeze, small waves breaking on the sand and dead limbs scattered along shore. 

  Nature’s sculpture

For a few moments I watched a woman and two little girls playing on a stretch of sand in between the trees. The blue skies, drifting white clouds, swaying trees, mesmerizing waves rolling onto shore, invoked scenes hundreds (thousands) of years ago when indigenous peoples knew this peninsula as home.

(Okay, I thought about all that later, but at the time I just enjoyed watching the kids playing.)

A grand live oak’s rooty toes stretch to the water. I learned later that this setting is the symbol
 for Goose Creek State Park (see patch photo at the top of this post)

Live Oak Trail intersects with a short trail to a tiny cemetery. It's not on the trail map but there is an interpretive sign. It is informally called Goose Creek State Park Cemetery. There are four graves, two unmarked and two marked with headstones indicating both people died in 1882, probably of an epidemic (cholera?)

Headstone of Melisa Carawon

Headstone of J.T. Campen

I backtracked to Live Oak Trail and continued to its intersection with one-mile Mallard Creek Loop Trail. As that trail turned away from the water, the wind died down, and the gnats and skeeters swarmed around me with a mission.

Mallard Creek Loop leads to the edge of Mallard Creek

An inviting dock stretching out into Mallard Creek

The rest of my hike was away from the water (and the wind) and I picked up my pace to stay ahead of the insects. I saw more Spanish moss in pretty light along this section.

If I’d had a full day, I might have hiked all the trails in Goose Creek SP, but it was time to hit the road. Some of what I missed: the Palmetto Boardwalk Trail crossing a blackwater swamp and the Tar Kiln Trail that has remains of tar kilns, used for burning long leaf pines to extract resin to produce tar for the 17th and 18th century shipbuilding industry. Next time!

I’m very grateful for North Carolina’s state park system that preserves, protects and promotes the diversity of our wild places. I’m a lucky girl exploring the corners of this amazing state. Just a few more counties and state parks to go!

“Go out in the woods, go out.

If you don’t go out in the woods,
nothing will ever happen

and your life will never begin.”

~Clarissa Pinkola Estes