Palmetto Trail: Lake Moultrie Passage - Section 2

Palmetto Trail: Lake Moultrie Passage Section 2

Amos Gourdine Landing to Viper Road

3/7/24 – 14.8 Miles

Morning conditions: an overcast sky and squishy ground around our tents. Fingers crossed for the weather to improve. (It worked!) Today Carol and I tackled Section 2 of the Lake Moultrie Passage.

Before we left Angels Landing Campground, we stopped at the restaurant and asked Ray if he would mind being a contact person if we literally got in too deep around Springwood Road. This section could be swampy and we wanted a bail-out option. He said yes and gave us his phone number. I might have seen him shaking his head as we went out the door.

We parked a car where the trail crosses Viper Road near the campground, with the idea that if we finish the 12-mile section early enough, we’ll tackle the 3-mile road walk from there to the end of Section 2.

Starting from Amos Gourdine Landing again, this time westbound, we looked for Palmetto Trail signs pointing out which bridge to take across the diversion canal. First bridge, no signs. Second bridge, railroad. Third bridge, no signs, but we ran across it anyway (should have crossed on the first bridge.) Our confusion added 2.5 miles to our day.

On track at last, Carol and I were up on the dike again, enjoying partial shade and a pleasant breeze as we passed by piney woods and a wide canal bustling with wildlife. Two bald eagles circled overhead.

Loblolly Pine male yellow pollen cones and large brown female cones

The first time we heard a very loud splashy “plop” and saw a wave ripple across the water, we thought an alligator had snagged something to eat. After several more splashes, we deduced that our presence was startling gators sunning on the banks and, one by one, they slipped into the water. There were a lot of them!

Turtles on the move, some quickly crossing the flat top of the dike, some coming up from the canal, some going down the far bank

Unlike the endless straight miles walking on the dike on our first day, angles and turns helped us to feel progress. Still, taking bathroom breaks were tricky, either out in the open or amongst trees in standing water. 

Railroad tracks?

At midafternoon the dike walk ended. The trail descended into piney woods transformed into swamp by the recent rains. Not gonna lie, I was petrified, but I knew I had to suck it up, praying that (A) the water wasn’t deep enough to support a real alligator and (B) that snakes did not exist.  

Boardwalk soon disappeared. With great skills in tricky sidestepping and slight bushwhacking, we made our way until we reached a chain link fenced backyard that was the domain of a small but ferociously barking dog. The racket drew the attention of a little boy that lived there, who ran to get his grandpa. Carol and I stood looking at the deep black lake that, according to GPS, was the Palmetto Trail.

Welcome to Hammonds Landing, the end of Springwood Road.

Grandpa splashed through his yard to say hello and suggested we walk around to the dry side of his property and follow the road through the neighborhood “and the trail is right there.” 

According to GPS and our two sets of eyes, the trail was not, in fact, right there. We’d heard about a “beautiful high wood bridge” that spanned across this swampy area, but we never saw it. If you’ve read my blog for a while, you know there was some moaning and groaning on my part right about now.

We thought about calling Ray for rescue but decided that we can do hard things. As we splashed around in the pines we noticed yellow blazes, decided that was all we had to go on, and pinged from one to the next until we got to higher ground on a forest road parallelling Bulltown Ditch. Soon we emerged onto Viper Road. What felt like hours was about 45 minutes.

Carol and I agreed not to spend the rest of the day walking the remaining 3 miles on Viper Road and Highway 45 to complete Section 2. Both roads were very busy with trucks, including a large bridge over the canal connecting Lake Moultrie and Lake Marion. There were no road shoulders to walk safely and the risk was not reasonable.

Instead we took our chances at Mac Daddy’s, a fish camp overlooking the water. Not a fancy place, but they sure know how to fry stuff! Delicious catfish bites, sweet tea and the best hushpuppies I think I’ve ever eaten.

“Bonfire burning on the banks of the river

All the girls come running when they smell the fish fry

Barefoot dancing when we dip in the river

I’ll be loving this river ‘til the day I die.”

~”O Cumberland River” Old Crow Medicine Show

Palmetto Trail: Eutaw Springs Passage - Section 2

Palmetto Trail: Eutaw Springs Passage Section 2

Old Number Six Highway to Eutawville, SC

3/6/24 – 10 Miles

For the two Palmetto Trail sections in South Carolina that Carol and I were tackling on this outing, we’d planned 4 days of hiking, but not necessarily contiguous miles (big word). Each day we checked the weather, the trail maps, and ground conditions so we don’t go swimmin’ with gators.

Carol checking for critters

After a night of steady rain, we woke up to a lighter drizzle in the morning. The forecast swore it would increase to a steady downpour and then…Aha! Clear skies by afternoon.

We’d spent 2+ hours looking at maps for alternative access to Section 2 of Lake Moultrie Passage.  After a breakfast of possibly the best biscuits ever made, stuffed with eggs and cheese and…yeah, I’ll take the bacon, too…we set out in both cars, going down several roadways that looked okay on paper but were impassable.

Plan B: Eutaw Springs Section 2. We drove the route as far as we could from the intersection of Old Number Six Highway and Rocks Pond Road to Gardensgate (be patient, someone like us is reading these details because they need them). Nearly all pavement and dirt roads, lots of water-filled potholes, but better than wading in the swamps near Lake Moultrie.

When we finish those 8 miles or so, we’ll see if we have time for the remaining couple of miles to complete Section 2 in Eutawville.

We started at Gardensgate Road on an easy footpath following a fence line, graceful trees dripping with Spanish moss, bucolic views to open pastures.

Carolina jessamine

Turning onto unpaved Battlefield Drive, we walked through a small community that we had driven an hour earlier. After a quick lunch break, we joined Old Number Six Highway, stopping briefly at Belvidere Cemetery. From this website: “Many African-American graves were moved from Belvidere Plantation to this New Belvidere Cemetery in preparation for the flooding of the plantation and the creation of Lake Marion.”

Unpaved Fredcon Road crossed a finger of Lake Marion

We walked two more miles of straight dirt road, noticing that the water puddles we’d seen earlier had been quickly absorbed by the sandy soil. We met a local man walking his dog. He said he called this road “Gator Road” and saw an uncommonly big one just last week. Huh.

Here there be gators

In the same stretch we paused at a heartfelt memorial to a young man who was an avid duck hunter. He died at 2018 at the age of 17, but the memorial looked very recent, lovingly maintained.

The remainder of the road walk featured swampy areas with cypress trees and knees, a juvenile brown snake, and an armadillo carcass.

We arrived at Rocks Pond Road with time to reposition our cars and knock off the rest of Section 2. The stretch was all road walking from “downtown” Eutawville to Gardensgate Road. There was a sidewalk on one side, along with aggressive dogs protecting their houses, so we had to cross to the opposite shoulder (no sidewalk). 

This last bit on a busy road got us thinking about another stretch of road on Lake Moultrie Section 2 (tomorrow’s route). It’s 3 miles on Highway 6, including the diversion canal bridge, lots of traffic and not much shoulder. The Palmetto Trail is designated on roadways when dirt tread is not possible, BUT good judgment tells us not to walk every inch if it doesn’t feel safe.

All in all, a successful day! Back at camp, we discovered that our tents were now surrounded by water. No other tent campers, so we moved to dry ground wherever we could find it. A shower, a meal, and recharging power banks while we plotted tomorrow’s adventure.

"A bend in the road is not the end of the road...

unless you fail to make the turn."

~Helen Keller 

Palmetto Trail: Lake Moultrie Passage - Section 1

Palmetto Trail: Lake Moultrie Passage - Section 1

Eastbound - Amos Gourdine Landing to U.S. Highway 52

3/5/24 – 11.1 Miles

Carol and I keep plugging away at the Palmetto Trail in South Carolina. The chilly days of late winter/early spring are best for hiking in the state’s shallow wetlands and swamps before the alligators wake up.

The plan: Four days hiking the Lake Moultrie & Eutaw Springs Passages (a fancy word for sections) and camping at Angel’s Landing Campground & Marina. This was a good central location, cheaper than a motel, providing safety, electricity, bathrooms, showers, a camp store and a small restaurant.

Despite a poor weather forecast, Carol wanted very much to go ahead with our plans. I was reluctant, but I knew we’d push through. Many years on trail together, we always figure out something or just get wet.

We met up around 9:00 a.m. at the eastern end of Lake Moultrie Section 1. We left one car and drove to Amos Landing for an 11-mile hike back to the start.

Lake Moultrie and Lake Marion were created in the 1940’s as part of the Santee Cooper Project for the WWII war effort. This section of the Palmetto Trail runs along the dike on the north and eastern sides of Lake Moultrie, very flat and very exposed.

Carol and I walked eastward alongside a canal for the first few miles. The canal was lined with pine trees. Knowing that shade would be scarce once the sun was overhead, we stopped a time or two in the patchy shade. 

So much for sleeping alligators! The day was warm, and early on we saw the creepy critters sunning on the canal banks, some big guys and some little young’uns. The trail was elevated enough that we felt safe, but our eyes were on a swivel. Occasionally we’d hear a “plop” and see ripples…

Cypress trees floating and reflecting, suspended in still waters

I began having phone issues before today, full storage capacity on my old Samsung, kicking myself for not getting a new phone yet. Silly, right? I was frustrated all week long. Poor quality photos most of our days on this trip.

We saw numerous great egrets and great blue herons (no photos…)

Passing through the town of Bonneau Beach, we stopped at Richardson’s Landing to rest tired feet and eat a snack. Along the road we met the lady who drives the local bookmobile as she stopped at someone’s house “just to check on them.” Small town life.

Approaching Lake Moultrie (Carol’s photo)

Our biggest challenge was a 3-mile section of the dike walking in full sun beside the shoreline, a sandy gritty surface. Hurrying to get through this stretch, I felt a hot spot forming on the ball of my right foot, worried that it would affect the rest of the week. No blisters, fortunately.

A bad photo of me on the dike

For the last mile of the day, the trail descended from the dike and entered piney woods, making a beeline for Highway 52 – a pleasant shady ending, except for sprinting across the four lanes of Highway 52 to our car. And no rain today!

After we collected both cars, Carol and I arrived at Angel’s Landing. There were mostly seasonal RVs, many unoccupied, not much going on midweek in early March. We had our choice of a handful of campsites along the small canal. How to tell which one was best? Look for the least squishy ground.

Food, showers, recharging devices, sleep.

Home Sweet Tent (Carol's photo)

Did you know?
 A group of alligators is called a “congregation.” An adult male is a “bull” and an adult female is a “cow.” Alligator young are called “hatchlings.” 

Bartram Trail: Wine Spring Gap to Appletree Campground

Bartram Trail: Wine Spring Gap to Appletree Campground – 11/4/23 – 12.5 Miles

Wind blew through the treetops all night. Falling leaves and acorns sounded like rain pitter-pattering on my tent. Around 2:00 am I heard a truck drive past our hideaway site (late night visitors to the fire tower?)

I heard Jeff stirring in his tent before 6:30 am and thought, well, we may as well get up. Daylight was a long way off but we could set up our shuttle, place my car at Appletree Campground, then eat breakfast and prepare for the hike there rather than up on this dark and windy mountainside.

Who cares about these details? A weird subset of folks in the hiking universe who like logistics. 

Appletree Campground closes for the season on October 31, but there is parking outside the gate. Once we got organized, we drove Jeff’s truck back up to our campsite/parking spot to start the day’s hike near the Bartram/AT intersection. 

Déjà vu except today we're turning left/west/northbound towards Sawmill Gap

Looks like it’s going to be another gorgeous day

Always wear orange so you'll show up in the photos (and the hunters will see you!)

For the first couple of miles the terrain was easy, moderate ups and downs. We passed through three open fields that until recently had been covered in tall grass and thickets of blackberry brambles. We appreciated the recent mowing, not taking for granted that volunteers and forest service staff maintain these public lands for us.

Prepared with a new peak bagging list for today, Jeff stepped off trail to summit McDonald Ridge. I took this opportunity to eat a snack and then kept going at a leisurely pace. He quickly caught up to me.

Hornets’ nest

Sawmill Gap – can you see the moon?

At Sawmill Gap we crossed Wine Springs Whiteoak Road and a large parking area where horse trailers unload. (This is a trailhead for the Wine Spring Loop Trail which also passes the Wine Spring horse campsites.) We hiked up towards Jarrett Bald, and Jeff went off-trail to the summit while I wandered ahead, lulled into a false sense of security by the moderate terrain, everything deafened by the ever-present sound of rustling leaves.

And then…the descent to Nantahala Lake. Two steep miles of slippery leaves, with a short stint of narrow ridge littered with boulders hidden by the slippery leaves, followed by even more downhill (is that possible?) on slippery leaves. I slid a hundred times, most often catching myself with my hiking poles. Jeff’s strategy was sliding his feet along the ground in order to stay on dirt, but that meant his boots catching every rock and root. Like the day before, I vowed I would never hike at this time of year again.

At Nantahala Lake we had a short walk on Wayah Road, around a sharp bend with guard rails and very little shoulder. We had to hustle while listening and watching for vehicles. 

At the small inlet at the curve, we sat for our lunch break. Judging from the shoreline, it appeared that this spot was normally underwater but the current water level was pretty low.

Break time is over: get back up, stretch those sore muscles, and get back on Wayah Road for about half a mile to where the trail turned left up an old paved road (seldom used, from the looks of the undisturbed leaf cover and the old truck). 

The trail undulated off and on old forest roads. Jeff headed off for his final peak of the day (unnamed?) and I had an hour to continue around the base of the mountain. Mercifully, the trail was well graded again, pleasant walking. At one point there were no trail signs at all at an obvious turn, so I plopped down, spread out my rain jacket and laid down to wait for Jeff. Just 20 minutes later, he showed up.

But...the last quarter mile of descent in this section was super steep (again!) and I fell hard, bouncing from my back to my front, trying to avoid hyperextending my knee. No serious injuries, but I was very sore for a few days afterwards.

We crossed the concrete ford where the Nantahala River flows out of the lake. The ford is not passable in high water but was very low today. (Note: as you’re planning to hike this section, research the current stage of the river in case you should take an alternative route.)

Two final boring miles on an unpaved road to the intersection of Junaluska Road and Old River Road, where Appletree Campground is located. 

Stats: 12.5 miles, 1.280 feet elevation gain, 3,652 feet elevation loss

Sore knees and a long drive home, but two days of fine weather walking in the woods with an adventurous friend – this is the life!

“The acoustics of this season are different
and all sounds, no matter how hushed,
 are as crisp as autumn air.”
 ~Eric Sloane