Pisagh 400: Conquering Squirrel Gap Trail

 Pisgah 400: Conquering Squirrel Gap Trail - 15 miles – 4/18/24 

Painted trillium

Taking advantage of a favorable mid-week weather forecast, today was the first time in quite a while I’ve hiked solo in my beloved Pisgah National Forest (Ranger District) in western North Carolina. My goal was to connect the puzzle pieces of some interior trails totaling about 13 miles, starting with South Mills River and then…

Friends, I will spare you the tangled turn-by-turn confusion I normally give. Altogether, I walked two big loops and one out-and-back, nine trail connections and several (did I count?) creek crossings. Note: route details in comments for map completers who've really gotta know.

An oops moment: At the parking lot I realized I had forgotten my paper map. Thankfully, I had downloaded my route on the GAIA app for offline use.

Half of the miles were repeats, mostly to access all the segments of one trail in particular: Squirrel Gap Trail. It’s true to its name because it darts all around, making quick, unpredictable turns. One might deduce that this trail existed prior to the creation of connector trails, making numerous intersections…Jeez, I sound like a bureaucrat. Let's look at photos.

Most hikes from Turkeypen Gap begin on South Mills River Trail

Many thanks to the skillful trail builders and maintainers who keep

this heavily used trail in great shape

Bridge over Mills River

Mills River looking lovely in morning rays of sunshine

Spring flowers were beginning to emerge, lots of purple violets, asters, wood anemone, foamflower, and more showy blooms like painted trillium and crested dwarf iris. I kept on the lookout for snakes enjoying the warmer temps but didn’t see any today. (I’m sure they saw me.)

Daisy fleabane

Crested dwarf iris

Something BIG has been clawing this tree trunk

Some trails in Pisgah NF are for hikers only, some are multi-use (hikers, bikers, horses), and some are for hikers and bikers (no horses). At each intersection there are (should be) signs indicating each trail’s users. Next level: a trail’s users can change at intersections! Yes, I know…Always know where you are and who you might encounter.

For example, I hiked up Mullinax Trail with its deep ditches and banked curves and turned onto Squirrel Gap Trail with narrow tread and mountain laurel “tunnels.” Both trails are designated for different users on different sections.

Mountain laurel tunnel on Squirrel Gap Trail

On quiet, moderate Cantrell Creek Trail, I heard rumbles as four mountain bikers appeared. I could only get one foot off the narrow trail because of the steep slant. We all politely navigated the space and in a moment they were gone. Most cyclists are very aware of other users, but there’s always one caught up in the euphoria...

About 5.5 miles into the hike, I stopped at Laurel Gap for lunch and a rest break. The sun was strong. So far it was a pleasant walk with bright spring green leaves emerging, views of ridge lines, bursts of birdsong rejoicing for spring. 

A pause for appreciation of spring green

At Laurel Creek Trail, the terrain changed again to multi-use with steep grade and deep trenches. After the first crossing of Laurel Creek I came to a large campsite area and needed to use GAIA to find my way through. Why? Some campsites are in dense woods with multiple campfire sites and tent spaces rather than in broad clearings, and the through-trail is not obvious.

At a section of Bradley Creek Trail that I’ve hiked before, it was time to get my feet wet. I had anticipated this and planned my route for wet crossings near the end of the day. A large tree trunk stretched across the expanse, but it was bouncy so I didn’t use it. Why risk falling? Instead, I waded across the clear water wearing my hiking shoes, easily choosing my footing. I love wading on a warm day, so refreshing! There were several more crossings, mostly calf deep, take your time.

Bradley Creek

By now I realized that my 13-mile estimate of this hike was not accurate, certainly would be longer. The sun was hotter and the uphills felt harder. I should have brought some electrolytes. I took a break, ate a snack although I didn’t feel like it. Slow down but keep going.

I made a costly mistake where Bradley Creek Trail crossed Mills River. I thought it was a horse crossing, so I ignored it and kept going on the right bank, thinking that a bridge would appear. (Even with GAIA, it is sometimes questionable if a trail is “real” or not). By the time I realized that I was on an unmaintained trail, I was too stubborn to backtrack. Eventually I reconnected with a trail that took me to the big bridge on South Mills River Trail near my starting point.

Final stats: 15 miles, 2,042 feet elevation gain/loss, 7 hours total (6:40 minutes moving, should have rested more).

Quite a day! How to celebrate? Chocolate milk and potato chips for the long drive back to Charlotte.

“I wanna make a jigsaw puzzle that's

40,000 pieces. And when you finish it,

it says 'go outside.'”

 ~Demetri Martin