Norbeck Dam to French Creek Horse Camp
New day, new start: Centennial Trail, here we come for real this time! Bridget, our overnight host, trail angel and shuttle driver extraordinaire, drove us to the southern terminus at Norbeck Dam Trailhead in Wind Cave National Park. The ride followed a winding route as part of Bridget’s day supporting folks on the trail. First we picked up a hiker at Bear Butte State Park, the northern terminus, and dropped him at Sheridan Lake. We delivered gear to backpackers at Legion Lake. Nancy and I will be passing all these places on our thru-hike.
Experiencing the “advance” tour with Bridget was priceless. She was full of information and tips, how to act when encountering bison, be sure to ask the camp hosts at French Creek horse camp if we can tent there, on and on. She is a super passionate supporter of the trail and hikers.
Here we go! First up, 6 miles through Wind Cave National Park. Since we’re not camping within the park, we skipped checking in at the Visitor Center (I’ll get back to it another day.) Read all about Wind Cave (Is there a cave? Is there wind?) at the official NPS site here, more history and area information here.
Fun fact: The Centennial Trail number “89” comes from the date of South Dakota’s statehood, 1889. The trail was built in 1989 to mark the 100th anniversary.
and knock them down.”
From our very first steps we were captivated by the landscape as the trail wandered through wide open spaces punctuated by tall rock outcrops.
Well, even after reading about tricky intersections in the middle of open prairie, Nancy and I took a wrong turn and went nearly a mile in the wrong direction before stopping to check our maps and apps (I had downloaded offline maps from GAIA and Avenza). We navigated cross-country to get back on track.
At Highland Creek, we passed through a gate that separates Wind Cave NP and Custer State Park. Bridget had regaled us with a story about dropping off hikers here last week amid a bison herd swarming the gate – no herd today, thank you very much!
Our long-ago original plan was to hike these first six miles, pass through the gate, and stealth camp somewhere around here. The revised plan meant we had to keep going. This didn’t look like a good place to camp anyway, but we did stop to filter water at Highland Creek.
Water issues can be the biggest challenge of thru-hiking the Centennial Trail. A lot of resources are devoted to identifying water sources and a Facebook page updates the flow – such good trail support, all from fellow hikers and local folks! We never had issues with water, plenty was flowing for us.
Custer State Park is a premiere destination in the Black Hills, 71,000 acres, four historic lodges, nine campgrounds, hundreds of miles of trails, and did I mention the bison? Two weeks wouldn’t be enough time to explore and enjoy this marvelous park.
Shortly after we entered the park, we passed through several prairie dog towns, minding our manners to stay on the path and not go tromping around in their communities. The residents popped up from their holes as we walked through, barking warnings to their neighbors that humans were afoot.
The trail changed to a two-lane forest road winding through sparse ponderosa pine ascending, first gently, then more steeply as we left the live trees behind and passed through an old burn area. The grasses have recovered but it’s going to be a long time for the trees.
Heating up in full sun now, no shade anywhere
Looking down at Wildlife Loop Road in the valley (still in Custer State Park), cars were stopped to look at a small bison herd grazing on both sides of the road. The trail took us further down the valley away from the herd where it was safe to cross the road.
Nearing French Creek Horse Camp, I was feeling knackered and a little confused as we intersected with dirt roads (did we stray from the trail?) The camping section for hikers wasn’t obvious, supposedly at the far end of the horse camp? We walked slowly past the corrals, cabins and comfy campsites, and nearly swooned at the sight of a bathhouse with flushing toilets, hot showers and electricity.
The camp host drove by in her golf cart and, remembering Bridget’s advice, we asked if we could set up tents. She kindly pointed out a sweet broad grassy area near the creek, complete with picnic tables. What a relief to end our long first day in such comfort!
*Original poem “My Western Home”
by Dr. Brewster Higley
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