Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Colorado 2022: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park - North Rim

Colorado 2022: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park – North Rim
8/12/22 - 4 miles

Coffee and calm on the south patio as the sun rises

Jim and I felt conflicted: stay and enjoy this early morning serenity or get out and meet the day? Beating the heat on the North Rim prompted us to get moving.

Yes, BLCA’s North Rim is remote, but don’t skip it – in my opinion, the most dramatic views of the Gunnison River are from the north side and getting there is a worthwhile experience. Pavement ended and gravel took over at the Park boundary as we approached the ranger station on Mesa Inclinado (great name, right?) 

[Note: There are no maintained or marked trails into the inner canyon. However, there are several unmarked scramble routes from the North Rim and a wilderness permit is required to go into the canyon. Be aware that what goes down must come back up! Read more here about this undertaking and please act responsibly.]

The temperature was 70 degrees, very comfortable, so before the heat took over we hiked the North Vista Trail from the ranger station to Exclamation Point, about 3 miles round trip, staying on top of the mesa. The trail continues to Green Mountain, 7 miles round trip.

The trail passes through sagebrush, oak scrub, pinyon pine and juniper, with one good viewpoint to the South Rim where the Gunnison River makes its 90-degree elbow turn to the right. The canyon’s walls are so steep and close together that we couldn’t see down to the water.

Something has been a-scratchin’

So far we’re the first humans out this morning (rabbits were active but hard to photograph)

Exclamation Point (7,702 feet elevation)

This is directly across from the Painted Wall View where we stood yesterday. It’s difficult to get depth perception with the shadows of the morning sun.

Stillness, no breeze – wait, do you hear the susurration of water flowing 2,000 feet below? The power of nature. Breathe in, breathe out.

After backtracking to the trailhead, we drove to the North Rim Campground to walk the half-mile Chasm View Trail, which is directly across the canyon from the South Rim’s Chasm View Trail. Between these two “chasm views” is the narrowest point of the canyon at river level – 40 feet! That’s about the width of a city street in Manhattan, with skyscrapers on both sides.

A jaw-dropping vantage point of the turn in the river as it flows downstream
 past the Painted Wall

Painted Wall as seen from Chasm View North Rim

Have you made your plans to visit BLCA yet?

We made our way along the rest of the North Rim Road, stopping at all viewpoints including the Narrows, Balanced Rock, Big Island, Island Peaks & Kneeling Camel. [Some were less photogenic than others.]

Balanced Rock

Do you see the Kneeling Camel?

Getting a closer look

Island Peaks

Looking downstream again – the rim looks flat as a board

Jim and I left the North Rim satisfied that we had seen and done all we wanted, an unhurried day that was much needed. Bonus: as we were heading out of the Park, Jim saw a bobcat cross the road! I caught a glimpse of its tawny-colored hind end as it disappeared into the brush.

What to do next? A much-anticipated visit to Big B’s Delicious Orchards! Y’all know I love cider. Not only can pick your own apples and buy produce from the farm stand, you can sample flights of ciders made on the premises (or drink a whole lot of your favorite one), swing on the rope swings, and listen to live music. You could plan an entire vacation based around their concert schedule. 

A Porsche car rally made a pit stop at Big B’s

We were a little early for the music, but we chilled out with cider and sweet potato fries and people watched until I needed a nap.

We returned to our tower room, turned on the A/C and enjoyed a little siesta before cleaning up for a special dinner at nearby Mesa Winds Winery (arranged by our Airbnb host). We sat out on the veranda of this small farm-to-table restaurant and enjoyed small plates fresh from their gardens and, of course, wines from their vineyards. 

Friends, it doesn’t get any better than this

Oh, wait a minute...

“Write it on your heart that every day
 is the best day in the year.“
 ~Ralph Waldo Emerson


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