Watchman Trail/Shelf Canyon Trail/Canyon Overlook Trail
Our word for today from Mirriam-Webster is adapt: to change, or change something, to suit different conditions. Every hiker knows that it’s important to have a Plan B, C and sometimes D in her back pocket.
For our second (and last) day in Zion National Park, we were splitting up to pursue different interests. Jim was keen to rent a bike for a ride up the canyon. I was set for a solo hike on the Watchman Trail. Cathy and Mike planned to hike the Canyon Overlook Trail and then check out an unnamed slot canyon that they had researched extensively, downloading GAIA tracks and nailing down the access point. Jim and I were both starting from the Visitor Center, where Cathy and Mike would drop us off, go to their hikes outside the park entrance, and we’d all meet at the VC in the afternoon.
Highway 9 was clogged bumper to bumper near the entrance to the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and my heart sank that our plans might not work. When we finally got to the VC parking, it was full and a dozen cars circling for spaces. People swarming EVERYWHERE. What is going on?
OH..the first day of the annual fee-free National Parks Week. So much planning went into our Utah trip, yet this is one detail I missed.
Time to adapt: We didn’t have shuttle passes for today so we couldn’t hike inside the canyon (let’s pause here and be grateful that we hiked to Angel’s Landing yesterday). There was not enough time for Cathy and Mike to leave the park, complete their two trails, and return to meet Jim and me. We concluded the most efficient thing to do was for all of us to hike the Watchman Trail (access near the Visitor Center, no shuttle), then drive east out of the park and find the slot canyon, then check out the Canyon Overlook Trail if time allowed.
Jim relinquished his bike ride – the only one of the entire Utah trip – because he’s just that nice.
We found a parking space in Springdale, walked through the pedestrian entrance by the Visitor Center, past the massive line at the shuttle stop, and over to the Watchman Trail’s trailhead.
The Watchman is a sandstone mountain, but “mountain” is not part of its name. It was once named Flanigan’s Peak after a family that had a farm at its base and was renamed for its position watching over the entrance to Zion National Park.
The Watchman Trail doesn’t ascend its namesake. Rather, it takes you to a small plateau with a stunning full view of the mountain, and many others. As the only moderate hike that doesn’t require a shuttle ride, this trail is a must-do. Like everywhere else in Zion, we had plenty of company, but the 3.3-mile round trip lollipop hike was delightful.
We walked alongside the Virgin River until it curved to the left and the trail kept straight into a small canyon at the base of Bridge Mountain. We ascended about 600 feet on mostly moderate switchbacks (I was surprisingly winded!)
April 16 is the anniversary of the Virginia Tech shootings of 2007. As alumnae, Jim and I have participated almost every year in the 5K “Run In Remembrance” event to commemorate the devastating loss of life in the Hokie Nation. This year (2021) during the pandemic, the in-person event was suspended and participation was virtual. Hokies worldwide logged their miles and we were proud to represent in Zion National Park!
Bridge Mountain again
The trail leads to a plateau and a quarter-mile loop. The view is great from the start of the loop but be sure to walk around it too. We took our time wandering and gasping.
Feeling pumped after the Watchman Trail, we escaped from Zion’s east entrance where half the world was now backed up for miles waiting to find that there was no parking at the Visitor Center. Hope everyone made their shuttle times…
We passed back through Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel on Highway 9 and looked for a pull-out space. Cars were parked every which way on both sides of the road, people walking wherever they pleased. We found a cliffhanger space and joined the migration. With GAIA GPS, we worked our way to the unnamed slot canyon that Cathy and Mike had identified. [I later learned that this is sometimes called Shelf Canyon. I don’t feel like I can give reliable, accurate info on how to find it but Google may know.]
A summary of our little venture into the slot canyon: The trail started out innocently until we rounded a corner and saw piles of boulders and steep slickrock. This made Cathy and me pause and consider how much we wanted to end our trip with no broken bones.
Mike scrambled out of sight on the right-hand side of a boulder pile, trying to find a way forward. He got out of voice range and we were a little concerned. [He made it back in one piece.] The biggest obstacle was a 12-foot vertical span where someone had wedged a non-helpful 1x2 stick. The footing just felt too slippery and I was not confident that I could make it past here. I plopped down on a rock.
Jim scrambled up the incline and also disappeared from sight. Cathy was a bit frustrated that the guys were able to push further into the narrow canyon. I was resigned to sitting and waiting. When they both reappeared, they reported that the way was less treacherous and only a short distance to the end. Ah, well, you win some, you lose some. Let's move on to Hike #3.
Just a short walk back towards the tunnel’s mouth is the Canyon Overlook Trail, usually a first stop for visitors to Zion NP. It’s a mile round trip to whet the appetite for narrow canyons, twists and turns among boulders, and a little slickrock. There are also some close edges to watch out for. The trail’s finale is a small plateau with piles of boulders and a broad, deep view into lower Zion Canyon and a labeled photo to identify what you’re seeing. [Read a better trail description than mine here.]
Jim gets nervous when I get close to an edge
Three hikes today, adapting from Plan A to Plan D, no injuries – a great day!
We drove 30 miles to Kanab, UT, for a 2-night stay in a very comfortable condo. All of our Airbnb accommodations for this Utah trip were first rate.
We’d heard about Kanab’s elevated culinary scene and were excited for a nice restaurant meal. But not surprising by now, some restaurants were still closed for the season, some were closed for lack of staff due to the pandemic, so even on a Friday night the selection was slim (still better than Duck Creek Village).
No worries – we found Wild Thyme Café, a garden-to-table restaurant with a variety of entrees.
Highly recommend it!
Very excited for tomorrow – it’s Slot Canyon Day! [squeal]
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