Monday, May 30, 2022

Pisgah 400: Buck Spring, Barnett Branch, Black Mountain & Club Gap Trails

Pisgah 400: Buck Spring, Barnett Branch, Black Mountain & Club Gap Trails
 5/29/21 – 8.8 Miles

This hike brought to you by Green Day


Plugging away at the Pisgah 400 Challenge and now it’s getting complicated. Most of the trails I have left to tackle require a shuttle drop-off or a car at both ends of the hike. I’ve got a few sample routes in my back pocket in case anyone asks…like Jim, for instance.

Today we were both itching to do something outside. I pulled one of these “sample” plans up to see if it dovetailed with a Blue Ridge Parkway bike ride for him. My route began off of Highway 276 near the Parkway and ended on Forest Road 477 about a mile from the Cradle of Forestry. We can make this work.

First we located my exit trailhead on FR 477, to make sure it was there and that the walk was reasonable – half a mile to Hwy 276 and then about a quarter of a mile to the Cradle of Forestry – check!

Second, we scouted the Cradle of Forestry parking lot where Jim would leave the car and we would rendezvous – check! [We agreed on “what-ifs” and contingency plans, as always, since there is no cell service in this neck of the woods.]

Third, he drove me to my start trailhead on Hwy 276 – check! As I sauntered off into the green, he returned the car to the Cradle and started his bike ride up to the BRP and beyond.

Today I experimented with typing trip notes into an app on my phone throughout the day. Verdict: I have great details and an enhanced memory of the experience, but I didn’t like the time and attention it took away from being “in the moment.” I probably won’t make it a habit on the go, but I’ll try harder to make notes at the end of each hike day rather than a day/week/month/year later.

Starting out on Buck Spring Trail. The dirt was spongy from last night’s rain, vegetation was dripping wet, and my pants legs were quickly drenched. After arid Utah, it felt great to be immersed in Pisgah NF in all its green saturated glory!

Throughout the day I recognized the fading foliage of early spring ephemerals and some stars of late spring, including brook meadow rue, mountain laurel, robin’s plantain, trillium, white wood aster, bear corn, galax foliage, Clinton’s lily, and sweet shrub.

Stepping over the trickling beginning of Bearwallow Brook at a curve in the trail

Recent trail work cutting/defining the bank

Buck Spring Trail intersects my old friend, the Mountains-to-Sea Trail


I crossed several log bridges over small tributaries draining down the steep mountainside
to join South Fork Mills River

Tulip tree blossom

Brook meadow rue aka mountain meadow rue

Mountain laurel was abundant overhead throughout the day

My reunion with the MST lasted only a short minute before I turned right onto Barnett Branch Trail. This trail changes personalities many times in its 3.1 miles, starting with a steep descent on slippery wet ground. Steep plus wet means “take your time.”

Spiderwebs were thick on Barnett Branch, so I must have been the first person
 passing through this morning. This is called “silk blazing.

I enjoy playing “how did that happen” nature forensics detective: see this splintered tree, for example. Was it wrenched apart by some weather event or did it simply succumb in its final rot stage? Must have made quite a racket when it took the fall. 

Splinter fingers

From another angle

A hollow base – a bear condo?

Through the thick green foliage I caught a glimpse of a small free-flowing waterfall and cascades from one of the unnamed creeks I had crossed up on Buck Spring Trail. A series of short, steep switchbacks descend close by its edge, and at the bottom of the last switchback was another sweet cascade flowing down broad rock ledges.

The photo isn’t great, and the flow isn’t spectacular given the amount of rain in the preceding 48 hours, but a nice interlude nonetheless. Both of these cascades are unnamed as far as I can tell. They are easy to reach via Yellow Gap Road when it’s open. Driving in from Hwy 276, the Barnett Branch trailhead is on your left and the lower cascade is a few minutes’ walk.

A very nice campsite below the waterfall, easy for beginners with access from Yellow Gap Road, probably first-come-first-served. I was pleased to see that it was spotlessly clean.

Barnett Branch Trail crosses Yellow Gap Road where a riot of fern waving was taking place, followed by mud puddles and a mountain laurel tunnel.

Barnett Branch Trail cuts across Pink Beds Loop, meaning it intersects once, goes half a mile, then crosses again. It’s easy to get mixed up in the Pink Beds area. If you’re going, check the directional arrows on the signs or you may take a wrong turn.

Reminds me of the old saying, “When God closes a door, he opens a window,
but sometimes it’s hell in the hallway!”
There was a lot going on in that little half-mile through the Pink Beds.

Soon after I crossed the Loop the first time, I reached an unsigned intersection that triggered some head-scratching – Pisgah, you are up to your old tricks! My GAIA GPS told me to stay left…maybe the trail to the right is a shortcut for roadside campers. 


A lone trillium, late to the spring party


Another campsite


At another unexpected junction, a Barnett Branch sign to the right
but nothing identifying the intersecting trails


The most informative sign in the Pink Beds


Cinnamon ferns

I crossed the Pink Beds Loop for the second (and last) time with more than half of Barnett Branch Trail still ahead of me, now a steady but gentle climb on a narrow path ascending Soapstone Ridge with a right turn to Black Mountain Trail. This was my favorite part of the day, solitude, no intersections, the trail weaving in and out of coves filled with green everything.

I ate lunch sitting on a big log, surrounded by green green green on all sides. Through the trees I spotted one spectacular mountain laurel on the hillside, smothered in signature pinkish white blooms. I was delighted to find that the trail passed right by it as I continued on my way up.

Bear corn

A fellow traveler: a red eft (Eastern newt)

The trail made a 90-degree hairpin type turn at a grassy flat spot, and I wondered
 if camping is allowed everywhere? This would be a cushy spot.
But there was no water source and no signs of use here.

For the last two switchbacks, the trail’s character changed to on old road bed before reluctantly depositing me onto Black Mountain Trail. My solitude bubble disintegrated as I met two mountain bikers right there at the intersection.

For a short while I enjoyed the half-mile ridge walk to the summit of Rich Mountain, feeling the breeze and listening to birdsong (I heard birdsong all day long, a little unusual – the most active time of year?)

From the top of Rich Mountain, though, the trail slams downhill in what must be a mountain biker's dream, banked curves and rock cliffs and red dirt. All I could think was, “I hope I hear ‘em coming!” The vast majority of bikers are courteous trail rule followers, but there always seems to be one who is in his own zone…

I was happy to turn off of Black Mountain Trail onto Club Gap Trail for my final descent, sad to see that it was also a rutted and muddy mess (although shaded with gorgeous rhododendrons!) And still there were warriors pushing bikes up the very steep trail. It’s gotta be fun to put yourself through that.


A literal bright spot – shiny flakes of mica on the trail

I arrived at the Cradle of Forestry within our estimated time frame, grateful for bathrooms and hot water for cleanup. Jim arrived soon after me, a successful bike ride for him today, and we decided we deserved two celebratory stops on the way home. 

My go-to Bold Rock Cidery in Mills River, very busy today but plenty of space outside
 to relax and people watch

Next we checked out Iron Key Brewing Company in Columbus NC, new to us and perfectly timed for a beer and a meal on the laid back patio. Iron Key occupies a former jail where the original key is still needed to unlock the door. The restrooms are labeled Bonnie and Clyde. Five stars for atmosphere!

“It’s something unpredictable,
but in the end is right
I hope you had the time of your life.”
~Green Day, “Good Riddance”


Wednesday, May 25, 2022

Adventures In Utah: Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch & A Surprise at Catstairs Canyon

Adventures in Utah: Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness
Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch & A Surprise at Catstairs Canyon
 4/17/21 – 7 miles

COVID-19 has wreaked havoc on indigenous peoples, who have suffered higher mortality rates than other racial and ethnic groups. Although disappointed at the closures of Antelope Canyon, Monument Valley and other tribal lands in Utah when we visited, we were acutely aware of the devastation burning through the Navajo Nation as it worked to protect itself from the virus. There is still much to see in this amazing state, and we’ll return and focus on the Navajo Tribal Parks when it is safe for everyone again.

Slot canyons are colorful, claustrophobic, and surreal. Over millennia, water’s moving force erodes stone, enlarging cracks that became crevices, then ditches, then canyons a few feet wide and hundreds of feet tall. Photos deep in a slot canyon are awesome, but nothing is better than being there in 3D.

After our not-quite-successful attempt at Shelf Canyon Trail, we had one last shot at a slot canyon adventure: Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch, located in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness area of Grand Staircase National Monument. Vermilion Cliffs extends across the Utah-Arizona border, but our route stayed within Kane County, Utah. There is a fee station at the trailhead parking, but my obsessive self wanted a sure thing.  I was able to buy day passes online at recreation.gov.

On the way to Wire Pass trailhead, we nervously watched heavy rain clouds that appeared to hang right where we are going. Jim was particularly worried about warnings of canyons flooding quickly in rain events, and I could see that he was anxious to bail out. 

With every slot canyon comes a flash flood warning. If you don’t want to rely on your own judgment, consider joining a guided tour for added assurance. Read more about slot canyons in the Southwest here. Then get yourself to Utah! 

After driving 8.5 miles on House Rock Valley Road, an unpaved but generally very good quality road (when dry), we arrived at the trailhead with plenty of parking spaces.

We sat in the car watching the big black cloud of doom roll in. It began lightly raining…then SNOWING…is that good or bad? Mike spoke with a ranger who said if it passed, we would be fine, but if it began to rain hard we should “get the hell out of here” because the red dirt road would quickly turn into a muddy quagmire.

We decided to wait and watch for a while. This was an all-in hike, not optional for some of us to hike while others wait in the car. A dozen carloads of people were also waiting, so we didn’t feel overly cautious. Sure enough, in about half an hour the stormy clouds moved on and glimpses of blue sky peeked through. Of one accord, car doors opened and shut and a wave of hikers hit the trail.

Wire Pass is a little baby canyon about 1.7 miles long. The first 1.2 miles is a wide sandy path through boulders that gradually pinches down into a half-mile slot canyon, three feet wide at its narrowest point. [About half a mile from the trailhead  there’s a junction with Coyote Buttes Trail, where lucky permit holders can access “The Wave.” The rules for getting those permits are harder to decipher than the IRS tax code. Do not try to sneak to The Wave. Just be grateful that it is so fiercely protected from abuse and overuse.]

Suddenly we were inside the first slot where the play of light on the walls flickered like an oil lantern. The temperature dropped as we walked in and out of the shadowy curves. 

How many photos can you take in a slot canyon? A whole lot.

An eight-foot drop assisted by a ladder – on our return hike, more people were in the canyon
 and this point became a bottleneck

The canyon opens up for a few hundred feet and narrows again.

Wire Pass intersects with Buckskin Gulch. Petroglyphs of big horn sheep are carved in the cliff walls. 

Buckskin Gulch is the longest and deepest known slot canyon in the U.S. (21 miles long and varying depths of 40 to 500 feet). Some people hike it in one long day hike. Some folks go for an overnight experience. Wire Pass intersects it about four miles from its northern end. We had originally planned to turn around at the junction, but we were having so much fun, we decided to follow Buckskin Gulch southbound.


Far overhead, debris from flash floods is packed tightly between the walls,
indicating how high the water can get – yikes!

Sandy bottom, scattered rocks

About a mile further, Buckskin Gulch bends hard to the left and opens up for a stretch. We scouted around, took a lunch break, and then reluctantly turned back.

But wait!  Did you know about…

A little-known curiosity on the drive back to Kanab: Catstairs Canyon.  From a pull-off on Highway 89, this is a short hike into the canyon to see creative road-building, a riprap made of old cars wired together to hold erosion from underneath the roadway. 

Jim’s album cover

Back at our condo, we got cleaned up and relaxed with a pre-dinner beer, then continued the celebration at Peekaboo Canyon Wood Fired Kitchen featuring vegetarian pizzas. In a good mood with full bellies and more beer, we traded “best of” and favorite moments of the trip. Mike really enjoyed his photography week and declared that today’s hike was the best. A chorus of “ayes” that the slot canyon was a spectacular climax to our adventures in Utah.

Eight days of hiking and we barely scratched the surface of this teeny corner of one state in the American Southwest. What an incredible privilege to explore this country! 

“. . . gentleness is stronger than severity, water is stronger than rock, love is stronger than force.” ~Hermann Hesse, Siddhartha