Pembrokeshire Coast Path - Day 13: Bosherton to Manorbier

Pembrokeshire Coast Path Day 13 – Bosherton to Manorbier - 8/15/19 

12.6 Miles – 2,550 ft. gain

  

I’m not gonna lie, that was the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had in a room above a bar. Breakfast on our timetable was only available via a tray left at our door - coffee, cereal, fruit, yogurt – and the challenge of eating in tight quarters as we were packing.

There are three ways to leave Bosherton on the P’shire. On this calm, clear Thursday morning, Danny and I followed the route around the Bosherton Lakes (also called the Lily Ponds) as a gentle segue back to the coast. The lakes are part of the Stackpole Estate, once owned by the Campbell family, Thanes of Cawdor in Scotland, and now part of the National Trust. The property includes the lakes, extensive grounds, gardens, woodlands, Stackpole Quay Harbour, and two beaches, all of which lies within Pembrokeshire National Park.

The Lily Ponds were my favorite part of Day 13 – Morning

Emerging from the wooded path to Broad Haven, one of the Stackpole Estate beaches, a signpost invited us to join the coast path, but which direction? Right on cue, a local out for his morning walk pointed the way.

Tranquility for an early morning standup paddleboarder

Barafundle Bay and its pristine beach, also part of the National Trust, are not accessible by road. A half-mile walk eastward along the cliffs leads to a car park and a café. Being early birds, we were an hour too early for the café (but toilets!)

We did not yet know that this would be our last day of glorious sunshine on the clifftops of Wales. The rocks and water and vegetation, the intensity of the colors was stunning. Looking forward along the path and stopping to look back where we had walked, the enormity of the experience was overwhelming even after 13 days.

Freshwater East

Stone walls lined the path down to the shops

The holy grail of coffee shops!

The P’shire doesn’t cross along the shore here. Instead, it weaves along sandy paths in the dunes above, mostly out of sight but occasionally peeking out at folks enjoying their holiday.

Goodbye, Freshwater East

On West Moor Cliff

High above Swanlake Bay, ubiquitous bovines were enjoying the endless salad bar and blissfully unaware of the nearby cliff’s severe erosion, which appeared to be recent and a bit unnerving where the path came within a yard or two of the edge.

Dayhikers were no longer a rarity, especially on such a spectacular day, but we were pleasantly surprised to meet a Pembrokeshire Coast Path ambassador out scouting a hike. She leads outings for mental health organizations and children’s groups.

When Manorbier Bay and its namesake village came into view, we checked the time. Maybe rather than ending there, we could continue for a few miles and then enter the village from the opposite side? We could shave a bit off tomorrow’s long day. With a rough plan in mind, we descended to the busy little beach. Such excitement! A Scouting group was hosting hands-on activities about caring for the sea and "improving people’s well-being." I chatted with the adults and so enjoyed watching the fun. My heart was warmed to see that children and Scouting programs are the same the world over.

Presipe Bay – we didn’t attempt the steep path down to the beach

Past Presipe Bay, the P’shire turned inland to bypass the Old Castle Head area formerly occupied by Manorbier Army Camp. Danny placed her fate in my hands as I more or less intuited the way towards town, across a field, down a lane, turn right here and here, until we popped out on the main road in the heart of Manorbier. From that point we followed Contour Holiday’s instructions to our accommodation in a charming neighborhood: Brynteg B&B.

Yes, those are the backyard gardens of our B&B!

A grander home awaited us – Manorbier Castle. Built on land granted to Odo de Barri, a Norman knight, at the end of the 11th century, in the early 12^th century the castle was fortified with a stone keep. It was attacked only twice in its history with minor damage, but fell into decay (alas, as castles tend to do). In 1880 it was partially restored. Manorbier Castle is privately owned, open for tours, and is a popular wedding venue.

Danny and I arrived late in the afternoon and had the place nearly to ourselves with amazingly unlimited access. We climbed up narrow spiral staircases, ducked our heads through low doorways, and inspected round tower rooms that held period furnishings. We stepped out onto the roof for a bird’s eye view. Signage was good and I didn’t at all miss having a guide to interpret.

It’s hard work touring a castle and I was ready for a meal. On the recommendation of our B&B host, we stopped at The Castle Inn for dinner. The experience made such an impression that I wrote notes about it later that night.

The Castle Inn had a chaotic atmosphere, mismatched tables with chairs and stools, noisy, lots of kids, lots of drinking. We commandeered a small table for two in the window of the front room that also held a piano being “played” by a rambunctious child. Ordered food at the bar, hoped we’d actually get it. At least a cider was put in my hand immediately. Danny asked about her favorite jacket potatoes and ordered a half pint of cider to join me.

As soon as we sat down at our cramped table, a couple sat down on short stools beside us, struck up a conversation, and stayed for dinner. Sean, 65, and Leslie, 60, from Bristol, England were celebrating their milestone birthdays by taking a trip every month for a year – Italy, Greece and Germany so far. I am now raising my bar for future birthday celebrations.

Leslie was sweet, earnest, dotes on their two small grandchildren. They live in a converted barn on a manor estate. She said they sleep on a low bed and wake up looking out the windows at the sky and trees and the horizon, smiling as she describes it. They both shared my philosophy that great things and people are right there in front of you if you recognize them.

Sean was a character from the get-go, seemed a little bit of a lush but very well-spoken, thoughtful, loved engaging in conversation. I didn’t learn his profession but he certainly had a creative bent. A rugged face, small frame – Mick Jagger’s younger brother? Sean seemed quite savvy about world politics. Like many Brits we’d met, he got on the subject of Donald Trump (of course), said he didn’t like him. [The woman at the next table, eavesdropping, leaned over and said she didn’t like him either.]

Our new friends were very impressed that we were hiking the whole Coast Path. Sean said he has bad legs and can’t walk well, but exclaimed how beautiful the cliffs were today. These two are lovebirds still, very genuine and affectionate.

Sean and Leslie were my favorite part of Day 13 – Evening

Cheers! Tomorrow is our big finish!

“I saw her today at the reception
A glass of wine in her hand
I knew she was going to meet her connection
At her feet was her footloose man
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes, you just might find
You get what you need.”

~Mick Jagger & Keith Richards
The Rolling Stones

Pembrokeshire Coast Path - Day 12: Angle to Bosherton

Pembrokeshire Coast Path Day 12 – Angle to Bosherton – 8/14/19

14.5 Miles – 1,590 ft. gain

[If this reads like a diary entry full of personal details – you’re right! It’s my story. Some info may be helpful for your trip planning, there’s an abundance of photos because everything was so beautiful, and I believe food and drink and human connections are the secret sauce of traveling. As they say, “Take what you need and leave the rest.” Enjoy!]

A few years ago Jim and I hiked the Tour du Mont Blanc and learned to relax the notion of walking every bit of a long distance trail. Weather and time considerations just don't allow for every route variation. The same applies to the P'shire. Today’s section particularly presented choices, including another unique opportunity on par with crossing the Gann at low tide.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path passes through Castlemartin Range, one of several armoured fighting vehicle training areas in the U.K. When the firing range is actively practicing manouevers (aka target practice), access to the P’shire’s coastal route is restricted. Scheduled guided tours are offered for the section of Castlemartin Range West coastline (between the Green Bridge of Wales and Freshwater West Beach)  and for Castlemartin Range East (between the Green Bridge of Wales and St. Govan’s Chapel).

The schedule of active firing dates is posted online a month in advance.  Of course, we didn’t specifically plan our P’shire hike to coincide, but generally all activity is suspended for the month of August.

However…the Castlemartin Range Walk is an alternate route through the interior countryside, also considered part of the P’shire, and it’s always open. As much as we love the cliffs, Danny and I opted for the interior route. Rain was expected for the entire day, and experience had taught us that the open and unprotected clifftops were not where we wanted to be in bad weather.

Last night we put our heads together with Clive, our host, over maps of the Castlemartin Range route. Still, I awoke with that fluttery feeling in my stomach of not knowing what the day would bring. Breakfast was lovely, including Clive’s homemade bread, from which he also made my takeaway sandwich: ham, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes from his garden, and butter – just right!

We bypassed the headland around Angle, instead taking the road straight across to West Angle Bay. Walking through the sleepy village in the early hours, no one else was stirring, not even at the caravan park, but there were a couple of walkers on the beach.

The beach at West Angle Bay, another Site of Special Scientific Interest with rock pools 

which are home to rare cushion starfish

Thorn Island sits at the northernmost tip of West Angle Bay just across the narrowest span of the Milford Haven Waterway. Mid-19^th century Thorn Island Fort takes up every square inch of it. Together with Dale Fort on the opposite shore, entrance to the waterway was theoretically protected from invasion of wooden ships.  The forts were deemed obsolete in a matter of a few decades with the introduction of iron clad ships.

The fort resurrected for a brief life as a hotel in the latter 20^th century, then sat abandoned until a new optimistic owner refurbished it for rental by private groups. (Quiz – what Agatha Christie book is set in such a dark, dreary, inaccessible place?)

More than a dozen shipwrecks are immersed in these waters and divers are drawn to exploration. The most storied wreck was Loch Shiel, which sank in 1878, carrying thousands of cases of Glasgow whisky. (There were human survivors.)

Just a bit further out on the peninsula is East Block House. In 1539 King Henry VIII ordered construction of two stone block houses to protect the Milford Haven waterway. Britain feared invasion attempts by the French and Spanish, which never occurred. Remains of the original Elizabethan East Block House still stand precariously at the edge of the cliff near West Angle Bay. (The West Block House Fort was located across the waterway on the Dale Peninsula.) 

In the early 20^th century, the East Block House Battery (and corresponding West Block House Battery) were constructed in the same locations to mount battery guns, varying sizes as technology developed, though used for practice rather than for active defense during the Second World War. All guns were removed by 1944. Remnants remain on the cliffs.

The wind picked up, flattening the grass, and the light but steady rain stayed with us as we continued along the wild coast. At full tide, the waves crashed against the rocks with enough power to splash foam onto the grassy clifftops.

Looking back at Thorn Island Fort on the foggy horizon

Snail party time

An Iron Age fort overlooking Sheep Island and Castles Bay – during World War One a lookout

 was built within the remains

Freshwater West Beach, widely known for two reasons:  great surfing (we saw a group lesson on the otherwise empty beach on this windy, rainy day) AND a filming location of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows starring Daniel Radcliffe and based on the book by J. K. Rowling. The scenes of The Shell House were created here on May 11-15, 2010.

At this point we left the coast behind and headed cross-country toward the village of Castlemartin, walking along the perimeter of the firing range. The signage was both unnerving and reassuring, as there was no mistaking where we were supposed to be.

We know who’s in charge at Chapel Farm

There he is by the fence, giving us the eye

Coming our way – where’s the exit?

Escaping through the gate and onto the mud highway

In the village of Castlemartin, by a former castle mound that is now a good old traffic roundabout, Danny and I stopped for lunch. I think two vehicles passed by.

My delicious sandwich made with love by Clive

The alternate route followed alongside the roadway for a bit before turning off again to cut a corner across open pastures. At the intersection where the “Range East” section of the P’shire continues when permitted, we instead turned left toward Merrion Camp.

Tank “Romulus 2”

Tank “Remus 2”

Past Merrion Camp the route took us on a tour of one farm after another – I lost count of the gates we passed through. Fortunately, the walking was easy and we were out of the blustery wind, if not the persistent rain. We took another break at the edge of a pasture but didn’t linger, as our feet were now turned toward our accommodations for the night in Bosherton. The bell tower of St. Michael & All Angels Church at the edge of the village was a welcome sight.

St. Govan’s Country Inn has a room waiting for us…

…on the second floor above the restaurant/bar.

It had become our habit for Danny to go exploring while I grabbed a shower and “got myself sorted.” Hot water and dry clothes are so welcome at the end of the day. Then I took a little walk myself, met some nice folks, and enjoyed coffee and cake at the café next door. Hmmm…will it ruin my dinner? Nope.

Annette was also staying at the inn and joined us for dinner. We shared the day’s adventures - 

she took the coastal route. 

Surprisingly, I had one of the best meals of our P’shire adventure: salmon and avocado salad and an amazing traditional Welsh lamb stew called “cawl.” The food was my favorite part of Day 12.

Cheers!

“A party without cake is just a meeting.”

"With enough butter, anything is good."

"It's so beautifully arranged on the plate - you know someone's fingers have been all over it."

"People who love to eat are always the best people." 

~Julia Child