Sunday, January 5, 2020

Benton MacKaye Trail in the Smokies: Raven Fork Campsite 47 to Smokemont Campground


Benton MacKaye Trail: Smokies Backpack Day 3 - 3/18/19 – 8.7 Miles

This morning Chris reported a temperature of 31 degrees. The air was only 6 degrees warmer than the previous night, but my tent added a few more and I slept much more comfortably. I wore the same base layers, my lightweight gloves, didn’t need my purple puffy coat or teal fleece, and used my neck gaiter for my ears/head instead of my headband and Liberty hat.

BUT…this was my first time out with my new Lightheart Gear tent and I was a little disappointed. Staking the tent properly is crucial, and the outer fly sagged to touch the mesh, getting moisture from condensation at the end where my face was. I’ll have to keep working on the staking. Otherwise I loved the tent construction, design and light weight. It allows me to sleep with my backpack inside and not feel crowded.

The plan was reveille at 7:00, step off at 8:00. I woke up at 7:05, still dark out. My morning habit is to get dressed, pack up my sleeping bag, sleeping pad and clothes sack, toss them outside the tent door before I emerge into the world. I was out of the tent by 7:30 a.m., daylight touching the mountaintops. The creek was roaring as it had through the night and would long after we were gone. No heating water for breakfast, just brown bread with Justin’s almond butter. I stuffed my damp tent into its sack and strapped it onto the outside of my pack. No worries – I’ll spread it out in the back of my car to dry on the drive home.

I headed out first to tackle the 2.7-mile, 1,300-foot uphill (of course) as Enloe Creek Trail climbs out of Raven Fork Gorge.  About a quarter-mile past Campsite 47, the trail turns way from Raven Fork and starts up the Enloe Creek drainage (thus the trail name, even though the campsite is on Raven Fork). At that point the robust whitewater of Enloe Creek was on my left-hand side.

We were aware that about a mile from Campsite 47 there’s a knee-deep creek crossing of Enloe Creek (once bridged by a foot log, long gone now). We wanted to all be together for the crossing, thus my early start. Timed out perfectly; as I was removing my boots at the water’s edge, my friends rounded the bend.

Chris waded right through the creek in his boots, but Nancy and Lane and I changed to water shoes. Our anticipation of freezing water helped and it didn’t feel too bad at all.  Somebody got photos of everybody crossing. 

Not too scary, I can see my duck feet

From this viewpoint - yikes!

Here comes Nancy

Safe on the other side, we dried off, laced up, and started again with me back in last place where I was happy. Enloe Creek was now on the right-hand side, still loud and feisty.

The climb got tougher but wasn’t as daunting, proving that it’s mostly a head game: my adventure is ending today. At the junction with Hughes Ridge Trail I turned left, walked half a mile and reached Chasteen Creek Trail.  That little half-mile quirk is not clear on the Smokies dollar trail map, but there it is.

Chasteen Creek Trail started out as my favorite trail variety, a smooth surface winding in and out of small coves.  I was tripping along with a light heart (pun intended).  Then fist-sized rocks began to appear underfoot and the trail widened, showing its true nature as an old roadbed covered in rocks that slowed me down. Sometimes steep, sometimes gentler, but still rocky as all get-out, I finished the 4.1 miles in under 2 hours. The last 1,000 miles on Bradley Fork Trail to Smokemont Campground was flat and long. For those of you keeping score, I counted the .3 miles through the parking lot to my car.

Are we there yet??

My friends were already settling in at a campsite, tents pitched, evaluating their resupply food before going into Cherokee for a big lunch. I’d debated all morning about whether I would join them.  Facing four hours in the car, though, I decided to go on home. As we all hugged goodbye I was a teeny bit sad that they were continuing on their big adventure – but I was sure happy to not be hiking up a mountain again in the morning.


The drive home was déjà vu from my Smokies 900 challenge, overwhelmed with nostalgia for those days of discovery.  I felt ultra relaxed, rotating through my CD’s for music that I hadn’t heard in a while. The pain of the climbs was already receding (happens every time – why don’t I trust it yet?) I do have some reflections to ponder, though, because my body is older and I cannot do the things I could do 20 or even 10 years ago.  I can mourn for it or accept it and hike on at my unique pace. 

"I dream of hiking into my old age. I want to be able even then to pack my load and take off slowly but steadily along the trail.” ~Marlyn Dolan


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