Benton MacKaye Trail: The Hangover and The End

Benton MacKaye Trail in NC – Hunt Camp to Big Fat Gap – 6/25/18 – 7 Miles

 

We early birds were out with the sunshine (yay!) and retraced the forest roads to Wolf Laurel Hunt Camp.  Mike left us there and went off to do whatever he does until time to meet us at Big Fat Gap, about 7 trail miles away. We figured about 4 hours.

Ready to hike out - boots are still wet – goodbye, Donley Cabin

Here we are again

Up Wolf Laurel and Stratton Bald Trails to the ridgetop, then a right turn onto the BMT and Haoe Lead Trail northeast running simultaneously.

Remember, NatGeo 781 map does not have the current BMT route marked through Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness.  It does show trail numbers but no corresponding trail names (it’s a Forest Service thing).  SO it is quite helpful of the BMT folks to put trail numbers AND names on the signage out there. But you gotta know your numbers! [The BMT trail guide recommends Trails Illustrated Map #784 or the USFS map for JK-SW.]

Next intersection - notice how high the foliage is

A view and a short stretch of open forest at Naked Ground campsite, just enough to gain some confidence.  Hey, this is why we came! Hiking is fun after all!

The BMT trail guide does a good job of narrating directions but it does assume using a GPS for mileage and waypoints, which we didn’t have.  Totally our responsibility for being underprepared and a hard lesson for the future.  When the trail guide says things like “there are several trails that intersect” and “at the big flat vertical rock, go left downhill” you had better pay close attention.  Especially when the lush forest is growing a mile a minute and overtaking everything.

Still on track

Hangover Lead Trail plunges down, down, down and it ain't over until
 the Big Fat Gap Lady sings.

In addition to the highlights of Bob Bald and Naked Ground, the BMT reroute passes the short side trail to the Hangover. The green tunnel opened up to heaven. Wow!  We needed some views today, even with those threatening clouds (but the clouds kept us from going farther out).

 

All cheered up by our success to this point, the next three miles descending Hangover Lead Trail hammered some humility back into us. The trail was devastatingly difficult, narrow, rocky, steep, and seriously eroded. At times the extensive overgrowth made those conditions hard to see, so we felt our way along step by step.  Hiking poles were a hindrance rather than a help, as we needed hands to grasp tree limbs and roots. I slipped several times, and once in particular I bent my right knee forward so far that I sort of probably screamed.  Poor Carol! For both of us, the thought of a trail rescue was stomach-turning.  But we kept going. Trail blazes were sparse and a couple of times we simply stopped to consider whether we had lost the trail. If this was the BMT, how can it be so in need of maintenance, especially when we’d seen a crew two days before on a section that was in better shape?  [If the BMT folks read this, I’m just telling our thoughts in the moment. You’re all volunteers that work many hours and can’t do it all. More volunteers needed! If anything, this renewed our appreciation for trail volunteers.] 

 

Slow going and concentrating on our footing, but blooming galax and fungi and mossy quartz rocks are part of the wilderness too.

First sign since the Hangover, a welcome sight

Overdue for our rendezvous with Mike, we couldn’t estimate how much longer we would be on the trail. Then the miracle happened – we ran into a group of young folks from the Southeast Conservation Corps! They were based out of Big Fat Gap for a week and were clearing their way up Hangover Lead Trail with wilderness tools.  Carol and I thanked them profusely and blessed them for their work. And from there on it was smooth sailing.

 

We were two hours late and Mike was glad to see us emerge at Big Fat Gap.  Without fanfare, we picked up Carol’s car at Tapoco Lodge and then, as we had planned because it was on the way, we stopped at Fontana Dam to use their free showers. Clean hair, clean bodies, clean clothes – what a great feeling!

Carol began her long drive to her home in South Carolina.  Mike and I headed towards Charlotte, with a little detour to Nantahala Outdoor Center for cheeseburgers.  The usual afternoon thunderstorm arrived when we did and everyone was running for cover.  Sitting by the restaurant’s window overhanging the Nantahala River, we watched with great empathy as paddlers in rafts and kayaks desperately tried to get to shore in the gusty winds and driving rain.

“Four days, 35 miles, and we’re done with the Benton MacKaye Trail for a good long while.” ~Smoky Scout