Tour du Mont Blanc: Tré-le-Champ
to Refuge La Flégère via Lac Blanc– 7/19/16 – 5.9 Miles
Inhabitants of our hobbit house crept about all night long,
every step announced by creaky old floor boards and muffled curses following
stumped toes and bumped heads. Not my best night’s sleep. To be fair, I was
also eagerly anticipating today’s hike: short miles on the Grand Balcon and a
side trip to the famed Lac Blanc, with stunningly clear skies in our
favor. Umm…what’s that you say about
ladders on rock cliff faces?
At breakfast we were introduced to the custom of drinking
coffee from a large bowl (oops, thought that was for cereal). We shared a table and conversation with a
retired German couple, both very tall and serious and experienced in “hill
walking.” This was their second time
walking the TMB. Today they planned to take the variante Col des Montets, which
bypasses the ladders and handrails of the “passage délicat” main route. Most other hikers, including Jim and I, were
getting psyched for the scary stuff.
Will Jim’s supply of duct tape be sufficient for two
more days? He doesn’t complain at all.
Not sure how we missed them last night, but this
morning we were reunited with the Spanish family we met a hundred years ago on
our first night in Les Contamines. All
smiles for a group shot!
Leaving Tré-Le-Champ in the valley
The ascent intensified when we got above tree line. We
passed beneath rock walls where tiny adventurers scaled up to the top. Soon the
trail passed by the base of a significant rock feature: Aiguillette
d’Argentière. Here’s a good place to take a deep breath and strap on our
courage as the real cliff climbing begins.
(For scale, the tiny red dots = people.)
Looking down at the Aiguillette d’Argentière and the village
of Argentière
At the top of each ladder I discovered another ladder
– more than 20
Here comes Cassie
Lots of hikers in front of us, at least we will perish
among friends
On the Grand Balcon. This is why we hike. What a
privilege to walk in this scenery.
Bonjour, Mont Blanc, so nice to see you this fine
morning
In the valley, the town of Chamonix (home of the first
winter Olympics in 1924)
Tête aux Vents, the junction where the Col des Montets
variante joins the main TMB
Flowing from the Mont Blanc massif: The Glacier d’Argentière
Friends gathered at Tête aux Vents
Chocolate reward
Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France
All of the Mont Blanc glaciers are shrinking due to climate change, but the story of Mer de Glace is stark and disconcerting. It saddens me that it is a tourist
attraction featuring a manmade grotto (dug out new each year because the
glacier moves) with exhibits, restaurants, a museum and a funicular to access
it. Is it any worse than all the hikers walking on the TMB? I hope that the
hikers have less impact.
A helicopter delivering supplies to Refuge La Blanc
Looking back towards Col de Balme, the low saddle in
the middle ground, that we crossed yesterday.
Beyond it are the alps of Switzerland.
After our rest we lightheartedly shouldered our packs for
the quick (not) easy (not) walk to Lac Blanc. Several trails crisscross but the
junctions are well signed and we got oriented for first the Lacs des Chéserys
and then Lac Blanc.
First look at Refuge du Lac Blanc, still can’t see its
namesake behind it.
The largest of the Chéserys and Glacier d’Argentière
across the valley
Home free? Do I see more ladders??? Lordy, yes, another
ladder section. I am so surprised (and annoyed) that I leave my camera in my
pocket.
Still climbing
Can’t have a day without snow
fields. They said last week this section was impassable.
And there she is at last:
Lac Blanc, still partly frozen, chunks of ice floating invitingly. Such
an intense deep blue sky!
Beyond that small hill where people were exploring lies
another portion of the lake, mostly ice-covered, surreal serenity.
Walking back towards the refuge
Refuge du Lac Blanc - another great place to stay but we didn't - I hear that evening time after the daytrippers are gone is wonderful
Who cannot resist a plunge into icy waters, knowing he may
never be here again? That would be my husband.
We explored, marveled, lounged, and sat in amazement for
nearly two hours at Lac Blanc. Future trekkers take note: do not skip this side
trip if weather permits. It is truly a wonder among wonders.
Now, how did all those people get here, some leading young
ones by the hand and a few carrying infants? They caught a ride on the cable
car from Chamonix up to La Flégère cable station. From there Lac Blanc is a bit more than an
hour’s walk, 1,500 feet elevation gain, which Jim and I next hiked in reverse
to our home for the night at Refuge La Flégère.
La Flégère cablecar station. The refuge is downslope
behind the big building. This looks close but still took some time to reach. Teeniest
tiniest black specs are hikers on the gravel road.
Refuge La Flégère (not my photo, from Refuge La Flégère
Facebook page). Primarily a ski lodge, it is a huge rambling wooden structure,
two stories of sleeping configurations (small rooms and big open dormitories),
dining hall on the bottom floor opening onto a simple patio with a majestic
this-can’t-be-real view. We paid 57 euros per person.
Our distance today was only 6 miles but I still felt
exhausted when we arrived at the cablecar station. Hurray for the snack stand that
accepted credit cards! We gobbled up croissants and sodas as we descended the
short path to the refuge, parked our boots and hiking poles in the gear room
and checked in. The staff showed us the general area of our bunks and we took
ownership.
View from the window at the end of the hall
The unisex bathroom (the last one of the hike, tomorrow we
return to the luxury of Hotel Slalom!) was one large room with a row of sinks
and mirrors, a bank of 3 toilets on one end and 3 showers on the other, topless
old women brushing their teeth and the ubiquitous men’s briefs at every turn. How
will I transition back to American privacy?
Cleaned up and freshly attired in the same evening clothes
we’d worn for 8 nights, we returned to the cablecar station to join Cassie and
Niki, and Debbie and Claire, the mother-daughter pair from South Carolina, in a
celebratory round. Another day conquered on the TMB. Cheers!
On the dinner menu at Refuge La Flégère: fresh salad and individual
casserole dishes of potatoes, bacon, ham, cheese and onion in a creamy white
sauce. Impossible for me to eat more than half; Jim had no difficulty consuming
both his and mine. And just why is the food so piping hot? Don’t forget the
cheese course. Dessert choices were a chocolate mousse, an apple tart or a
cream cheese type thing.
We were seated with the Bulgarian couple and a father-son
duo from England out hiking for a couple of days. The 8-year-old boy bore a striking
resemblance to McCauley Culkin in “Home Alone.” We expressed amazement at his
ability to climb all the ladders on this section; he shrugged like it was no
big deal, said it was fun. The dad was up on the latest Tour de France news,
so he was Jim’s new best friend.
On the patio at Refuge La Flégère
By now Jim and I had developed good bedtime habits,
preparing as much as possible for tomorrow, filling water containers, corralling
electronics, airing out hiking clothes, etc. Our bunkmates were our German
friends from breakfast (was that really just this morning?) Lights out, full
dark, I thought for a moment about this adventure ending tomorrow but…ZZZZZZZZ
Miles: 5.9 Elevation Gain: 4,216 feet Elevation Loss: 2,631 feet
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