Appalachian Trail Project in VA – 3/30/14 - Grayson Highlands Backpack
– Dickey Gap to Old Orchard Shelter – 10.2 Miles
The miles on the Appalachian Trail in Virginia are adding up
and the gaps are narrowing down. One
36-mile stretch in the most southwestern section I have been anxious to get to
is the Grayson Highlands area. I’ve
backpacked there twice in past years, enjoying the wild ponies and the massive rhododendron
bloom in June. Putting out a couple of
invitations yielded no available hiking partners, so I was ready to suck it up
and go solo. In a kitchen table session
with maps and mileages I laid out my plan to convince Jim (and myself) that I
had a reasonable plan. The same old
drawbacks, possible extreme cold weather, exposed areas and out of cell phone
range.
On Tuesday I got an email from my friend Mike: his paddling plans in Florida had canceled (too
much water) and was I still going to Grayson Highlands? Yes, yes, yes!
Then the deal got sweeter as Mike (who has hiked the area
multiple times) proposed tweaks to my itinerary, making it easier for me. He was willing to shuttle and let me
slackpack some (meaning carry just a daypack) and meet me late in the day. Very generous – what’s in it for him? Companionship at the end of the day plus good
guy status.
We had a five-day window for our three-day scenario and we
watched the weather forecast worsen and then move around the calendar, ultimately
settling on a Sunday-Monday-Tuesday plan.
Sunday’s forecast called for morning rain/snow but clearing quickly and
steadily after that.
So imagine my dismay as I’m driving to meet Mike in Virginia,
wind gusting and snow starting to blow.
I stopped for gas and I felt just how bone-chilling the wind factor
was. Do I really want to get into
this? Can I just turn around and go get
a cup of coffee? But I knew Mike was
waiting for me. Maybe I can talk him out
of it.
Mike’s big grin and “Are you ready for this?” told me that
there was no wimping out on this adventure.
I followed his vehicle along
windy Highway 58 to the drop-off point for my car. The snow fell thicker by the minute,
definitely more than an inch or two, probably three or four inches and sticking
to everything, coating tree trunks and branches and rhododendron leaves. The
plan for today was an 8.5-mile hike southbound from Dickey Gap to VA 603 (Fox
Creek) where I would meet Mike, then backpack in about 1.5 miles to Orchard
Shelter for the night. I felt
apprehensive but resigned to give it a try and at least do the 8.5 miles.
At Dickey Gap I put on my rain jacket and pants and started down
the pristine, footprint- less trail of fresh snow. Below the ridge the wind was minimal, a muffled
hush, magical, everything coated in white.
The rhodies say b-r-r-r
Slippery bridge
Yeah, that’s the trail
My boots
Soon I met a couple hiking northbound, giving me footprints
to follow, which was helpful in places like rock fields. I couldn’t rely on white blazes today.
At the side trail to Hurricane Mountain Shelter I
experienced a few moments of indecision.
The signs were twisted at an angle, there were multiple sets of
footprints going to the shelter and then northbound where I had come from, and
keeping straight (southbound) looked very narrow, more like a trail to a water
source or privy. The rhododendrons were
bent over from the heavy snow, closing in the trail. I opted for the straight “trail less traveled”
and eventually found a white blaze, and now was following two sets of
footprints going the same direction as me, plus doggie prints. I concluded that several hikers stayed at the
shelter last night and set out in both directions this morning.
At the junction with Iron Mountain Trail, Mike intercepted
me hiking as he was hiking a loop starting from VA 603. He took a great photo of me in my red rain
jacket. Then he continued his loop and
planned to meet me at the Fox Creek parking area. I had such a great time hiking in the snow
that I had decided to continue with the three-day plan. After all, it was forecast to steadily
improve, right?
Sure enough, blue skies peeking through!
At Mike’s van I traded my daypack for my backpack, taking
care to think through what I needed for the next two days. We hiked 1.5 miles to Old Orchard Shelter,
which we were disappointed to see was quite uninviting, small and cramped.
And snow had blown in and been packed down. I don’t think I'll be sleeping here.
We quickly decided to pitch tents in an open area where
obviously someone had done the same the night before.
The shelter was pretty bad but the privy sure was nice.
Handicapped accessible with a ramp and railings by the
toilet – but how does the wheelchair get there?
Piped spring water source
While it was still daylight we spent time finding the right
tree to hang our food bags. Some folks
don’t bother with this, just hang their food on a low branch away from their
tent or even keep it in their tent and hope for the best. I admit I’ve done all of the above, whatever
the group is doing. But Mike is
conscientious about best practices and always sets up a bear bag line.
As the sun went down
and we cooked supper I began to get cold.
Mike doesn’t get into his tent too early but I couldn’t keep him
company. Shivering set in and I had to relent
and get warm. Usually the activity of
preparing for sleep inside my tent and putting on layers gets me warmed up to
slip into my sleeping bag, but this time it didn’t quite do the trick. During the night I added layers of clothing until
the only thing I was not wearing was my rain jacket (using it as a
pillow). I had on two pairs of socks
plus two pairs of liner socks, sleeping tights, hiking pants, rain pants, short
sleeved shirt, two long sleeved shirts (one Smartwool), my light fleece jacket,
my primaloft coat, two hats and a thick pair of wool gloves. I felt like a stuffed burrito in that
15-degree sleeping bag…plus a silk bag liner!
Still it was hours before I warmed up to a comfortable level. Not for the first (or last) time I questioned
my judgment on carrying a bag of stuff and sleeping outside in the cold.
But I’m glad I didn’t miss it.
1 comment:
Backpacking in the winter is hard core! But it looks absolutely beautiful. Of course I'd be on my skis... :)
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