Appalachian Trail Project in VA – 2/28/14 – Virginia Creeper
Trail Southbound to Damascus – 13.7 Miles
Itching, itching, itching… Is a good scratch worth driving 6
hours round trip? Of course.
Dovetailing calendar flexibility with the weather forecast, Friday
was a good day to go walking in the woods. Where is the closest I can get to the AT, finish
the day not too far from a main road, and make it home for, um, dessert? Looks like Damascus. I made
arrangements for a shuttle ride from Sun Dog Outfitters – but I had to leave
home at 6:00 a.m. to meet the shuttle by 9:15 a.m.
Driving through Mountain City, TN, a bank sign said 19
degrees – and so did the cigar-curled rhododendron leaves. Better get that extra headband out of the
glove compartment. I really hate cold
ears.
My shuttle driver was a five-time AT thru-hiker called Lone
Wolf - long ponytail, Duck Dynasty beard, very nice, soft-spoken fellow my age. We dropped my car at the western edge of town
(the trail walks all the way through town) and he drove me to where the
Virginia Creeper Trail intersects briefly with the AT, at the Luther Hassinger
Memorial Bridge. Along the way he told
me about a recent reroute because of a washed out bridge, said it was very
clearly marked (an under- statement.) As a
bonus, he then explained that I could either walk a half-mile up the access
road to join the trail or scramble up the embankment beside the bridge pylon
directly onto the trail. Scrambling is
always better. As I have said before,
shuttle drivers are an invaluable part of the AT hiking community.
Pause for background on the Virginia Creeper Trail: A 34-mile gentle trail converted from an old
railroad grade of the Virginia-Carolina Railroad, used by hikers, cyclists and
horseback riders. The Creeper Trail runs
from Whitetop Station to Abingdon, VA and the town of Damascus sits right about
in the middle. Going east to west it’s
almost all downhill – and vice versa the other way. (Bike rental and shuttle companies
abound.) The AT runs concurrently with
the Creeper Trail for a little less than a mile.
After the scramble to the top of the bridge, I had a few
moments of head- scratching to determine which way was trail south. Trying to remember what Lone Wolf had said
about the access trail, and then looking down at Whitetop Laurel Creek that
flowed by, I chose a direction. A mile
or so would tell me if I was right. I
reasoned that the Creeper Trail slopes downhill toward Damascus because the
railroad sloped downhill following the flow of the creek – so I should walk in
the direction the creek was flowing.
I guessed right.
For the first couple of miles I tried a faster pace for
“training” for my upcoming trip to hike Machu Picchu in Peru (yes, stay tuned!) but
then settled into my comfort zone and enjoyed a chilly day in the deep
woods. Very peaceful, glimpses of the
Creeper Trail on the far side of Whitetop Laurel Creek.
I told you it was cold – ice chunks broken off from the edge
of the creek
I told you it was cold Part 2 – ice bubbles formed from a
little trickle across the trail
A rocky boulder field
Winding my way uphill towards Saunders Shelter I passed through a burn area, crispy pine needles
About six miles into the hike, I stopped for lunch near a
sweet little campsite between the Trail and Whitetop Laurel Creek (it probably
shouldn’t have been there, too close to the water in my opinion). Fun Fact:
Whitetop Laurel Creek is a habitat for the hellbender salamander, the largest in the U.S.
On one short section where the narrow trail cut across a
steep slope with the creek at the bottom, the leaves were so deep that I couldn’t
tell where the trail was and where the slope started. Similar to feeling my way along in a snow
drift, I inched forward feeling through my boots for solid ground.
Nearly knee deep in loose leaves
The reroute was indeed clearly marked, complete with
details posted to the trees. This shortened
my hike by about a mile, which was okay by me.
No severe climbs today, just steady gentle uphills, and after about 10
miles my legs and feet were tired, but still no knee issues. I did wonder how people do this day in, day
out. I surmise that constant
conditioning is the key, something I always fail to acquire as a weekend
warrior.
A set of steps descends to Highway 58, where hikers cross
the road and again join the Creeper Trail as it runs concurrent with the AT
into Damascus. I followed the white
blazes through town. A fellow in a tow
truck slowed down to holler that he liked my winter fleece Liberty hat. Very friendly place, Damascus. Have you heard of Trail Days?
I finished my hike just before 4:00 p.m. A few more miles marked off and the peaceful contemplation of nature. Going home singing along with my
eclectic homemade CD’s. Yes, it was
worth the drive.
“Pursue some path, however narrow and crooked, in which you
can walk with love and reverence.”
~Henry David Thoreau
2 comments:
how was the scramble up beside the bridge?
As I recall, the scramble was short and sweet.
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