South Dakota: Black Elk Peak

South Dakota: Black Elk Peak – 6/14/23 - 7 Miles

Still footloose in South Dakota on a sunny morning, thinking I’m recovered and ready for a challenge, I tackled the state high point of Black Elk Peak.

What’s in a name?

For 160 years, this formidable summit bore the name Harney Peak, in honor of the Army general who commanded a military expedition in 1855 resulting in the Battle of Ash Hollow in Nebraska – the massacre of Sioux warriors, women and children.

After decades of petitioning (why does it take us so long to right these wrongs?) on August 11, 2016 the name was changed to honor Oglala Lakota holy man Black Elk and to recognize the sacredness of the peak and the Black Hills to Native Americans. Prayer cloths are tied to trees and other vegetation on the summit approach in recognition and remembrance.

As I mentioned, Black Elk Peak is the high point of South Dakota – 7,242 feet – and is surrounded by Black Elk Wilderness within Black Hills National Forest. The roadless summit features a native stone fire tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1939. I’ve seen a few CCC fire towers, but this one is next level amazing. 

Another great trail blog with photos is here.

There are many miles of trails in Black Elk Wilderness, more than one route to the summit, and I chose the most direct one: Elk Peak Trail #9 starting from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park. [I hiked through Custer State Park on the Centennial Trail, but I missed most of the highlights that car-enabled visitors see in its 71,00 acres, including the lakes and lodges and the Needles Highway.] 

I’d learned that Black Elk Peak is the most popular hiking destination in the park and before 8:00 a.m. I skidded into the last open parking space in the dusty gravel lot at the trailhead. Folks were starting out in all stages of (un)preparedness with kids, dogs, and high hopes. 

I guess mom and dad will retrieve this on the way back down

The wide gravel roadbed started out easily, offering this teaser view around
 one of the first curves

The gentleness is soon gone as the grade gets steeper and the tread gets rougher – and why am I wheezing? Oh, yeah, the elevation surpasses NC’s high point of Mount Mitchell (6,684 feet) within the first mile.

So let’s stop and look at these pretty flowers

Keep going!

Stairs going up into the rock are a good sign, right?

We have arrived!

Looking down at where I just climbed up

Time for a new plaque?

The structure is quite large and all spaces are open to explore, including the top lookout tower. This website describes it: “The lookout tower, dam, pump house and stairway were constructed upon the highpoint. The reservoir created by the dam supplied water to the living quarters which were located in the lower level of the fire tower. The comforts of electricity, flush toilets, and a central heating system were incorporated into the remote fire lookout tower.” 

The pump house and water retention pond

If you haven’t had enough of looking at the Black Hills, there is a wide expanse of rock
 on the back side of the tower 

Just pick your spot with a view (try to ignore the shirtless youth)

Soaking up this flawless day, reflecting on my good fortune to have
the health, wealth and time to be here

As more and more intrepid hikers reached the summit, the time came for me to hike out. Descending is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees, and hurrying is a good way to have an injury. I took my time going against the flow.

What’s that? Did someone just call my name?  There it is again! I looked down the trail, very suspicious…who in the world knows that I am here today?

This guy right here: Richard is a trail angel who supports hikers on the Centennial Trail. During our hike Nancy and I had tried working out an overnight stay at his cottage with transport back to the trail, but if you’ve read past entries you know that plans changed, so I never got the opportunity to meet Richard. Yet here he was, hiking to Black Elk Peak, and he recognized me from Facebook!

My morning adventures were followed by afternoon fun in the town of Custer, South Dakota, which you’ll have on your radar if/when you visit this part of the world. I roamed around the don’t-miss Custer County Courthouse Museum. The volunteer ladies there were a hoot and we had a nice long chat about the importance of preserving local history.

Who’s hungry? I found the best of the best at Black Hills Burger & Bun Co. The restaurant was packed when I walked in alone, and the host quickly and quietly walked me over to a table for one. I gobbled down an incredible bison burger (don’t think about it) and thanked the good Lord for this incredible day.

BUT…it’s not over yet!

I went back to my Airbnb, feeling a little lonely, when the next surprise happened. Bridget, the shuttle trail angel who put Nancy and me on the Centennial Trail and then later retrieved me, texted: “What are you doing right now?”

Dani (the woman with Bridget the day she picked me up from Whispering Pines, now completed her CT thru-hike) and Lynn (Nancy's hiking buddy completing the CT) – all were gathered at Bridget’s for dinner! Would I like to join? Would I like to sleep over?

Yes, please.

I packed up, turned out the lights, closed the door of the Airbnb, and walked into warm hospitality at Bridget’s house. And all because my backpack got on a plane to Dallas.

“I believe in coincidences, I’ve just never
 seen one.”
 ~ A Wise Friend

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 1 – Norbeck Dam to French Creek Horse Camp

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 1
Norbeck Dam to French Creek Horse Camp

6/5/23 – 17.1 Miles

New day, new start: Centennial Trail, here we come for real this time! Bridget, our overnight host, trail angel and shuttle driver extraordinaire, drove us to the southern terminus at Norbeck Dam Trailhead in Wind Cave National Park. The ride followed a winding route as part of Bridget’s day supporting folks on the trail. First we picked up a hiker at Bear Butte State Park, the northern terminus, and dropped him at Sheridan Lake. We delivered gear to backpackers at Legion Lake. Nancy and I will be passing all these places on our thru-hike.

Experiencing the “advance” tour with Bridget was priceless. She was full of information and tips, how to act when encountering bison, be sure to ask the camp hosts at French Creek horse camp if we can tent there, on and on. She is a super passionate supporter of the trail and hikers.

Bridget snapped a quick photo, hollered, “Call me if you need ANYTHING!” and was gone.

Here we go! First up, 6 miles through Wind Cave National Park. Since we’re not camping within the park, we skipped checking in at the Visitor Center (I’ll get back to it another day.) Read all about Wind Cave (Is there a cave? Is there wind?) at the official NPS site here, more history and area information here.

The Centennial Trail follows Trail 89 markers…except when it doesn’t. For example, in Wind Cave NP it is Trail 6. If there is no 89, follow the 6.

Fun fact: The Centennial Trail number “89” comes from the date of South Dakota’s statehood, 1889. The trail was built in 1989 to mark the 100th anniversary.

The guidebook cautions hikers to be alert for trail signs. “Buffalo rub against the posts
and knock them down.”

From our very first steps we were captivated by the landscape as the trail wandered through wide open spaces punctuated by tall rock outcrops.

Well, even after reading about tricky intersections in the middle of open prairie, Nancy and I took a wrong turn and went nearly a mile in the wrong direction before stopping to check our maps and apps (I had downloaded offline maps from GAIA and Avenza). We navigated cross-country to get back on track. 

Lesson learned on Day 1: check navigation often!

At Highland Creek, we passed through a gate that separates Wind Cave NP and Custer State Park. Bridget had regaled us with a story about dropping off hikers here last week amid a bison herd swarming the gate – no herd today, thank you very much!

Our long-ago original plan was to hike these first six miles, pass through the gate, and stealth camp somewhere around here. The revised plan meant we had to keep going. This didn’t look like a good place to camp anyway, but we did stop to filter water at Highland Creek.

Water issues can be the biggest challenge of thru-hiking the Centennial Trail. A lot of resources are devoted to identifying water sources and a Facebook page updates the flow – such good trail support, all from fellow hikers and local folks! We never had issues with water, plenty was flowing for us.

Nine miles to go

Custer State Park is a premiere destination in the Black Hills, 71,000 acres, four historic lodges, nine campgrounds, hundreds of miles of trails, and did I mention the bison? Two weeks wouldn’t be enough time to explore and enjoy this marvelous park.

Shortly after we entered the park, we passed through several prairie dog towns, minding our manners to stay on the path and not go tromping around in their communities. The residents popped up from their holes as we walked through, barking warnings to their neighbors that humans were afoot.

The trail changed to a two-lane forest road winding through sparse ponderosa pine ascending, first gently, then more steeply as we left the live trees behind and passed through an old burn area. The grasses have recovered but it’s going to be a long time for the trees.

Heating up in full sun now, no shade anywhere

A prairie rattlesnake – this big fella jumped and so did we!

And a gopher snake, longer than the rattlesnake! Glad Nancy is in front of me.

At last, a patch of woods again

An antelope playing (no deer friends, though)

Looking down at Wildlife Loop Road in the valley (still in Custer State Park), cars were stopped to look at a small bison herd grazing on both sides of the road. The trail took us further down the valley away from the herd where it was safe to cross the road.

Nancy checking in with civilization

Nearing French Creek Horse Camp, I was feeling knackered and a little confused as we intersected with dirt roads (did we stray from the trail?) The camping section for hikers wasn’t obvious, supposedly at the far end of the horse camp? We walked slowly past the corrals, cabins and comfy campsites, and nearly swooned at the sight of a bathhouse with flushing toilets, hot showers and electricity.

The camp host drove by in her golf cart and, remembering Bridget’s advice, we asked if we could set up tents. She kindly pointed out a sweet broad grassy area near the creek, complete with picnic tables. What a relief to end our long first day in such comfort! 

Cooking our first meal on our adventure

On the banks of French Creek (on the other side of the fence)

Day 1 Centennial Trail wildlife checklist: Bison, prairie dogs, two big ol’ snakes, and an antelope.

What will tomorrow bring?

Home, home on the range

Where the deer and the antelope play

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day

*Original poem “My Western Home”
 by Dr. Brewster Higley
[read more here]