Pisgah 400: Art Loeb Trail & Cold Mountain

Pisgah 400: Art Loeb Trail & Cold Mountain – 7/12/23 – 11.4 miles

After a comfy/chilly night’s rest (54 degrees) at Mount Pisgah Campground, Carol and I woke up to another blue sky day, looking forward to hiking to a famous summit: Cold Mountain.

Heard of it?

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain that inspired the 1997 book by Charles Frazier (am I dating myself here?)

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain that every Boy Scout at Camp Daniel Boone has tackled on an 11-mile round trip hike to the summit.

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain (elevation 6,030 feet) that is part of the South Beyond 6000 Summit Challenge (SB6K).  

Raising the awesomeness factor of today’s hike is the Art Loeb Trail, a challenging route traversing ridgelines of Shining Rock Wilderness and high points of Pisgah National Forest. Camp Daniel Boone is at the northern terminus of the Art Loeb Trail. The southern terminus is 30.1 miles away at Davidson River Campground in Pisgah National Forest.

I’ve hiked all of the Art Loeb Trail except the westernmost four miles starting from the camp. I summitted Cold Mountain in 2009 as part of the SB6K Challenge (that’s 14 years ago, friends). Our trek on that day was a rigorous 18 miles out-and-back from…well, you can read all about it here.

Today’s adventure is all new for Carol, so let’s go!

It’s one heck of a drive from Mount Pisgah Campground to Camp Daniel Boone, and I was taken aback when it appeared we would drive through the middle of the camp while the morning flag ceremony was being conducted. Boy Scouts young and old swarming everywhere – are we in the right place? Yep, just keep going to the gravel parking lot for Art Loeb Trail.

A young woman with a loaded backpack was studying the trailhead sign and she headed up the trail a few minutes ahead of us. We soon caught up with her and she was eager to chat. She was excited to begin a birthday challenge for herself, her first multi-day hike.

Carol and I surreptitiously raised eyebrows. We are both experienced backpacking know-it-alls and Shining Rock Wilderness is quite rugged, a myriad of unmarked animal and social trails with no signage. We suppressed the urge to grill her about gear, instead encouraging her that it was very doable. She said she had paper maps and some info from the AllTrails app, figured she would take 5 days or so. We took a group photo, and Carol and I wished her well and walked on, a little worried – yes, judging her (lack of?) preparedness.

Our superiority complexes were quickly squelched as the steepness of the trail in front of us took our breath away. Let’s slow down and appreciate nature. Lush foliage and midsummer flowers were putting on a show!

I do not know what this is...

Dutchman’s Pipe vines and heart-shaped foliage

Turk’s Cap Lily

Carol crossing one of several little streams

Fire Pinks

Sundrops

At about 4 miles, we reached Deep Gap, where the Art Loeb Trail turns right and Cold Mountain Trail turns left. We took a break to assess our energy levels.

Are we having fun yet? Carol debated whether she wanted to continue to the summit.  Up to this point, the Art Loeb had been challenging but not hard to follow, clear of obstacles. Looking at the head-high foliage pointing towards Cold Mountain, though, I also had doubts. This is where the “let’s start, see what it’s like, maybe turn around” philosophy applies. (Spoiler alert at the top of this post: we both made it to the summit.)

Can you see me?

The steep grade didn’t let up. The closer we got to the top, the more rugged the trail became. The tall undergrowth persisted, broken up occasionally by boulders. No surprise I only took three photos on this section.

A piped spring

Columbine

I see an opening…

The top of Cold Mountain is broad, mostly tree covered, but there is a survey marker

Several expanses of rock facing south, overlooking Shining Rock Wilderness’s green carpeted ridges. Like Goldilocks, we checked out all of them.

The Art Loeb Trail follows the ridgeline in the center of the photo

On the return hike, we stopped at Deep Gap again where a group of high school age Boy Scouts were setting up tents. We chatted with the woman who was guiding them on a 3-day backpack trip in Shining Rock Wilderness. We asked about the young woman on her Art Loeb birthday quest, but this group had not seen her.

Most folks who meet in the middle of the woods are happy to talk: where ya been,
where ya going?

Further down the trail, we met two men and asked if they had seen the young woman. They said yes, she was turning around, decided it was too much for her. She could have modified her plan to a one-nighter out-and-back, but at any rate, Carol and I were very happy to hear she had made a thoughtful decision.

Heck of a long drive back to Mount Pisgah Campground with plans for a simple dehydrated supper. At the neighboring campsite, two guys were cooking something that smelled delicious and they invited us to “sit a spell.” They were old friends who meet several times a year to camp together, cook a lot, smoke cigars, enjoy the peace and quiet of the outdoors. Their setup was elaborate, with a huge tent and canopies, camp cots and a large rug to keep the dirt out – and don’t forget the eternal campfire. We talked about what we’d done that day and they talked about what they might do tomorrow, after sleeping in and cooking breakfast and smoking more cigars.

Camp neighbors keeping their priorities straight

"Live your life by a compass, not a clock."
 ~Stephen Covey

Pisgah 400: Art Loeb & Farlow Gap Trails to Shuck Ridge Falls

Pisgah 400: Art Loeb Trail/Farlow Gap Trail to Shuck Ridge Falls – 10/29/21 – 5.9 Miles

Mother Nature doesn’t always get the memo when I plan a hike. More times than I can count, my progress on the Pisgah 400 Challenge has been impeded by bad weather (rain/snow) or the results of weather events (flooding, freezing, wildfires).

This is why Jim found himself driving slowly on the Blue Ridge Parkway in a cold, dreary, foggy drizzle, looking for a trailhead that I was pretty sure was getting closer…closer…closer…

Rewind: In December 2019 we made a mostly successful hike on Daniel Ridge Loop and Farlow Gap Trail in Pisgah National Forest on a cold, clear, blue sky day. Because of recent rains, though, we were stopped at a dangerous creek crossing and couldn’t complete Farlow Gap Trail to the intersection with Art Loeb Trail (story and exciting photos here.)

About 1.3 unhiked miles of Farlow Gap Trail taunted me for nearly two years. On the day that I convinced Jim to help me tackle it from the far end, what do you think the weather was? Fog and rain.

Found it! The Art Loeb Trail crossing the BRP where I hiked in 2015

We started the moderate downhill on Art Loeb Trail in a cold drizzle that turned into a steady rain. Kept telling ourselves there is beauty even in the fog.

At Farlow Gap, we stopped to rearrange layers and smile at the subtle humor of the sign people

My good mood faded on the extremely steep, rocky, rooty descent on Farlow Gap Trail. Slippery leaves disguised washouts and filled gaps between the roots. Tricky footing, not knowing when we were stepping on solid ground or in a hole. We both took a tumble on the way down to Shuck Ridge Creek.

We didn’t try to scramble down to the base of the falls (couldn’t find the “obvious” trail), but the top of the falls where the trail crosses was a simple rock hop compared to our previous hike when it was impassable. 

Me standing where the trail crosses in December 2019

Today, looking downstream from the same spot

As we stood at the falls, we decided to have a snack before tackling the inevitable hard climb. The rain had decreased enough to take off our hot rain jackets, but every rock and tree stump was saturated, so we ate cheese and crackers standing up.

Indeed, the climb was grueling. I started out strong, a little too fast, and then fizzled. My breathing was labored, and it took me 45 minutes to conquer the stretch to Farlow Gap (still less than halfway) but at least I wasn’t carrying a 30-pound backpack in 90-degree heat and strong sun as I did on the Tahoe Rim Trail just two months earlier. 

Jim leading the way

The rain became a downpour.

At Farlow Gap, layers were rearranged again, and I onboarded some body fuel. [These nut butter bars are much better than Clif’s traditional bars.]

The last 1.6 miles going up Art Loeb Trail were slightly less challenging but I stopped several times for a 30-second rest. All in all, the hike was longer than expected in both distance (5.9 miles) and in time (3 hrs 15 min moving time). I don’t think Jim had this hiking life in mind when we vowed ‘til death do us part, but my appreciation for him grows every time he says, “Sure, I’ll go with you!”

We were later than planned reaching our Airbnb, but boy oh boy did that hot shower feel good! Followed it up with pizza at Mad Anthony’s with our friend Nancy East and the tough miles were in the rearview mirror.

“When there is mist on the mountains, it is beautiful,
 and when there is no mist,
 it is also beautiful.”
 ~Thich Nhat Hanh

Pisgah National Forest: Extra Miles On The Art Loeb Trail

Art Loeb Trail – Pisgah 400 – 7/10/15 – 20 miles

While our waterfall days have been a lot of fun, it’s been some time since I’ve been on a strenuous, all-day, why-did-I-do-this hike.  The calendar is full for the next couple of months, but Jim and I saw a little overnight window we could slip out of for a hike-bike day.  Don’t think about it too long – just do it!

On the Blue Ridge Parkway in western NC we invoked the guideline “sleep cheap and eat well.”  Jim and I enjoyed a memorable meal at the Pisgah Inn, then pitched a tent at Pisgah Campground and snoozed at 50 degrees rather than the oppressively humid 80’s that are the midsummer norm in Charlotte.  Early the next morning, Jim dropped me off where the Art Loeb Trail crosses the BRP.  While he rode a million miles on his bike, my plan was to hike southbound through Pisgah National Forest to the trail’s beginning at Davidson River Campground.  

But first, there was the matter of a bit less than a mile of the Art Loeb stretching north to intersect with the Mountains-to-Sea Trail.  (Map completers cover all loose ends.)  The short out-and-back was really a steep up-and-down and got my adrenaline flowing to be out alone on a trail again. An entire day to walk and breathe and look and listen in the woods!  I carried 3 liters of water in anticipation of the heat.

Knowing that navigation can be tricky in Pisgah NF, I carried a map and a narrative writeup, determined to stay alert and oriented on the trail.  Crossing the BRP to the southbound side, I felt a pang of dismay at the overgrowth of the undergrowth.  Yes, this was the trail!

The jungle soon gave way to a clearer path and followed the ridge gently down to Farlow Gap, some very nice campsites and the first place requiring a consultation of my resources to distinguish the correct trail. Here Farlow Gap Trail and a couple of old road beds (including F.R. 140-A) intersect the Art Loeb.  The recurring theme throughout my hike was “Which old forest road do you think this is?”  The trail takes the most direct up-and-down route while the roads crisscross it on a more even grade… except when they don’t…

Dodder aka love vine

Although the trail generally trended downward, there were a couple of bumps that got my attention, such as straight up and over Sassafrass Knob and another campsite (don’t forget to bring your own water).  Descending to Deep Gap, this A-frame shelter doesn’t look at all inviting.  Once again, several old roadbeds converged at this gap and I had a head-scratching few minutes determining which way my trail should go.  I walked about 30 yards down first one direction, then another, and ultimately chose the right now.  Later in the day I wouldn’t be so lucky.

At the summit of Pilot Mountain, the best view of the hot and hazy day

View from Pilot Mountain

Bush honeysuckle on top of Pilot Mountain

The descent from Pilot Mountain followed a series of strenuous switchbacks and the trail crossed F.R. 229 twice.  At one crossing I waved to mountain bikers who blew past me kicking up dust.  At Gloucester Gap I stopped for a little refreshment. 

Boring details so far?  How about some flower pictures?

Here a phlox

There a phlox

Coreopsis

Over the course of the day I saw many more late summer wildflowers, including:  yellow foxglove, St. John’s wort, white bee balm, Dutchman’s pipe vine, Indian pipe, dodder/love vine, wild hydrangea, fringe phacelia, black cohosh and rattlesnake plantain.

The next few miles were rather nondescript except for brief adrenaline going over Rich Mountain and Chestnut Mountain.  Judging by the abundance of spiderwebs, I was the lone traveler in this section.  My biggest thrill (not in a good way) was running full face into a very sticky web with a very large architect (see the black blob in the photo).  Just keep walking, try not to think about it…

At confusing junction #3 Butter Gap Trail, Art Loeb Connector Trail, the real Art Loeb Trail and an unnamed trail to Cedar Rock tie together (there is no official trail to the summit of Cedar Rock – why not?)  I traced the circle formed by the connector trail and the real ALT and continued on past Butter Gap Shelter, another ugly A-frame.  At the spring there I filled up a one-liter container with water. 

The trail crossed Kuykendall Creek, the only appreciable water crossing of the hike, and climbed steeply along the southeastern flank cliffs of Cedar Rock, a popular climbing spot.  There are several good campsites along the base of these cliffs.  At the top of this climb there is another unnamed trail back to Cedar Rock.  (Seriously, why can’t these trails be signed?  They are obviously frequently used.) 

A break in the action – a very healthy black snake waiting for the light to change so he can cross the trail.  I couldn’t see the full length of his body wrapped around the tree. 

Rattlesnake plantain

My big mistake occurred at Cat Gap, which I had passed through on a previous hike so I didn’t bother to consult my trail narrative but simply glanced at my map.  At Cat Gap I stayed to the right on a beautiful wide clear trail that I thought was still the Art Loeb…but wasn’t.  After a half-mile descent I popped out of the trees onto a forest road that simply should not have been there.  Once I got my bearings and retraced my steps back up to Cat Gap, I had added a mile to my hike.  My good mood dissipated.  I had over 6 miles still to go.  

Jim was waiting by the Davidson River at the end of my now 20-mile hike.  He parked me in a tailgate chair at the water, handed me a very cold Diet Mountain Dew, and I soaked my feet and recovered.  Lessons for the day:  download a GPS track for the trails in Pisgah NF, plan a shorter route but expect to walk some extra steps, and have an attentive partner meet you at the end to pamper you.  

“What is the difference between exploring and being lost?”  ~Dan Eldon

Cold Mountain

Shining Rock Wilderness - 6/6/09 - Art Loeb Trail/Cold Mountain Trail/Art Loeb Trail/Ivestor Gap Trail – 18.2 Miles

My hiking group in Charlotte, the Carolina Berg Wanderers, posted a hike to Cold Mountain and I eagerly signed myself up. Have you all read the book or at least seen the movie? Cold Mountain has a mythic appeal here in the Carolinas. It is in the Shining Rock Wilderness section of the Pisgah Ranger District, a place known for its extensive grassy balds and unmarked trails. One of my favorite webcams is mounted on top of Mt. Pisgah and looks at Cold Mountain – I check it out on days when I’m stuck here in the flatlands and want to daydream.

There are a couple of approaches to Cold Mountain. In the words of Tina Turner, we could take it “easy” or we could take it “rough.” What do the Bergs do? Rough, baby! The hike was billed as strenuous, fast-paced, warning, warning, warning. Jeff, the Pisgah guru, was the hike leader and I’d hiked with him quite a bit in the Smokies, so I knew that at least he wouldn’t leave me for dead. Seriously, I didn’t think I would have any trouble…but think again…

The trailhead is about a 3-hour drive, at the Black Balsam Parking area off of the Blue Ridge Parkway near MP 420. What an exhilerating feeling to be on the Parkway again and heading toward a hiking trail! The sky was a brilliant blue with some puffy white clouds and the parking lot was…kinda full. Looks like there will be many people wandering in the wilderness today.

 I believe there were nine people in our hiking group. I have trouble verifying this because we did not stay together for very long. We walked back down the road a quarter –mile and turned left to pick up the Art Loeb Trail which led us quickly up on top of the balds. Now, these are not the Smokies type balds where you can see trees on all sides of a field. The grass covered peak after peak and we could see the Art Loeb stretching up and over the rolling mountaintops. Walking over the balds doesn’t even feel like hiking – it feels like a lovely jaunt in Ireland.

I love this photo of Jeff on top of one of the numerous rock out- croppings. I call it his “Super Hero” poster.

As I said, part of the attraction of this hike was Cold Mountain (which happens to be part of the SB6K challenge that I am still not officially hiking) but the hike also summited three other SB6K peaks: Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain and Grassy Cove Top.

After Grassy Cove Top we passed through Flower Gap and topped Flower Knob. I think this is where the jackrabbits of the group took off and we did not see them again until we were atop Cold Mountain.

Trails in wilderness areas are not maintained like those in national parks and signage is minimal. At one particular intersection you really need a compass or a knowledgeable hiking buddy to determine which way to continue. Jeff showed us a clue: someone had marked this small white rock to continue on the Art Loeb. But I wouldn’t have even seen the rock on the ground if he hadn’t pointed it out!

After Shining Rock Gap (we came close but did not summit the real Shining Rock – saving some fun for another day) we were into the woods again and began climbing Stairs Mountain. Notice I did not say “Down” Stairs Mountain…The going got tough here and I seemed to be slower than I remember from the Smokies days. Is it possible to get soft so quickly?

Shining Rock Ledge gave a short respite and the occasional nice view – and then we were negotiating the Narrows. The footing was rocky and there was a little scrambling going on. Still, we managed to spot some wildflowers along this section, including pink ladyslippers and a glorious stand of yellow ladyslippers.

 Finally we reached Deep Gap and the intersection with the “easy” route to Cold Mountain (in this case “easier” just means shorter.) The fast half of the group did not wait for us here, which frustrated me and made me feel that I needed to rush to catch them. I had this feeling for most of the day and only partially convinced myself that I did not need to feel a push and it was their business how fast or slow they wanted to move. Still, a little advance communication and agreement would have been helpful. I just kept muttering to myself, “You’ve got the car keys in your pocket.”

The climb up Cold Mountain was steep and vegetation was overtaking the trail in many places. Often we could not see our feet and hoped that we were not stepping off into the wild blue yonder – or on a wild creature. (FYI for wilderness first aid people, at some point Carolyn suffered a scrape and she stopped the bleeding with a leaf.)

We met perhaps a dozen hikers on this mile-and-a-half section and spotted three nice primitive campsites. Near the summit we met the rest of our group…heading back down! But they were looking for a good resting spot and we would meet them after we tagged the top and took photos.

And here is the view from our lunch break. You can trace the ridge that we walked along all the way out to the horizon. I was so proud to achieve this goal and gazing out on it was awesome.

But we have to backtrack now? Yikes! The steepness going back down Cold Mountain was a knee-breaker and I was getting concerned that I was so slow. Of course the jackrabbits were long gone. Most shocking was the climb back up the Narrows – did someone crank up the lungbuster dial? I just didn’t remember this part being so strenuous. I was determined not to be last in line because I was a bit afraid to be left behind and I was unsure of the intersections, plus we were going to steer right at some point and pick up the Ivestor Gap Trail and I didn’t know where. Note to self: You are not in the Smokies anymore. Bring your own map and understand it before you start!

Jeff is a good friend, and although he could have hiked up front with the big dogs, he stayed near the back of the pack with us and we pretended to identify flowers as I frequently paused to gasp for air. I had my first sighting of a jack-in-the-pulpit. They are rather tiny and greenish and blend in very well, so I was tickled to find them.

The Ivestor Gap Trail is a road bed, very little grade, and although it was not as sexy as walking over the balds, I was glad to follow it the rest of the way. I was a whipped puppy when I finally got my boots off and had mixed emotions. I was happy to have summitted four SB6K peaks (not that I’m counting) but I was discouraged that I felt so beat up after an 18-mile hike. I guess it wasn’t so bad when you consider that we did it in about 9 hours…

 We all stopped for a late dinner and then said our goodbyes in the parking lot. I told the jackrabbits that I was sorry about not getting to hike with them and that I would probably never see them on a trail. Although I said it with a laugh, I was making mental notes about future hikes.

From there I was not going back to Charlotte – no, I had another hike planned for the next morning! I drove to Danny and Lenny Bernstein’s house in Asheville and rang their doorbell at about 10:00 p.m. (yes, they were expecting me). They took one look at me and said, “See you in the morning,” and I headed for my room-away-from-home. But first Lenny said something like, “How about those Narrows, huh? You’re not in the Smokies anymore!”

Somehow that remark finally validated how difficult the day had been – it wasn’t just me going soft, it was a dadgum strenuous hike! I slept like a ton of bricks.