Moose On the Loose

Isle Royale Backpack Trip – Day 3 – 9/1/10 - Island Mine to Washington Creek + Huginnin Cove Loop Trail – 16.4 Miles

“There’s a mama moose and two calves in camp!” Mike whispered outside my tent.

I scrambled into clothes and Crocs, unzipped my incredibly loud zipper door and stepped out. There were Jeff, Cathy and Neil each standing by their tents and staring into the woods. Kim was sitting in the doorway of her tent and Mike was standing nearby. In the dim morning light (where the heck are my glasses?) I saw the dark outline of a very large moose and two smaller versions, standing still and eyeballing us right back. Mama moose was no doubt wondering why we were in between her and the creek. Had she ever seen a bright fuschia tent before? The calves were nosing around, tentatively taking a step or two from Mama but no further. We all held our places and our breath for about ten minutes and then suddenly…they were gone. Mama moose and her calves slowly turned and melted back into the woods, no sticks cracking, no leaves rustling, no sound at all. What a moment of reverence and grace! No wonder we haven’t seen any moose until now. I did not realize how quietly these magnificent animals move through the trees. Probably 50 moose have seen us pass, but this was our only sighting of them while on Isle Royale.

That makes two amazing wildlife moments that I’ve had while camping with Mike – the other one in the Grand Tetons last year. I think I’ll stick around him more.

Well, now we’re up, so let’s start the day. After eating and packing up, I followed Kim and Cathy out of camp. A half-mile away was our intersection with Greenstone Ridge Trail. Greenstone Ridge runs nearly the entire length of Isle Royale, 42 miles from Washington Creek campground east to Lookout Louise. We turned left and followed this easy boulevard of a trail back to Windigo and Washington Creek. Along the way we met a few day hikers. Eventually I dropped behind and was caught by Neil and we chatted about our kids, their good choices and bad choices and what they are doing these days. We marveled at the selection of fungi on the island. Before I knew it we were strolling by the turnoff to Washington Creek.

Here we had some options for accommodations. There are secluded small tent sites or group tent sites or shelters with wire screen fronts. Jeff and Mike chose to pitch their tents again, while the rest of us chose the shelters (hey, no wrestling with unpacking and repacking tents). Jeff and Mike put all their food and extra stuff in our shelter. Now for the most important business of the day: going back to the Windigo store to retrieve our duffel with clean clothes and to purchase tokens for the hot showers. One token costs $6 for a five-minute shower – I bought two just in case. And we remembered the delicious sandwiches from our first day, so we eagerly ran to the fridge to get some more…well, the selection had dwindled to cream cheese and jelly on white bread, but it’s amazing how good that tastes after a few days in the woods. The store lady was waiting on the ferry to bring food supplies. As we ate on the porch overlooking all of Windigo, I wrestled with the idea of doing another hike that afternoon versus, say, taking a nap. In the end we all opted to hike to Huginnin Cove via the loop of Minong Trail, East Huginnin Cove Trail and West Huginnin Cove Trail.

Once again I did not check the map to see for myself, so the 6-mile hike that Cathy advertised was really 9 miles. Huginnin Cove is on the northern side of Isle Royale and as it skirts the shoreline you can wave at Canada. This shoreline is more dramatic than what we had seen thus far on the island, high cliffs and pounding waves, a prelude to what we would see later on at the Apostle Islands. Again I was with Kim and Cathy as we arrived at Huginnin Cove campground and picked our way among the slippery rocks down to the shore. The water that had been so chilling all week felt downright therapeutic today and we sat with submerged feet for quite a while. The guys eventually caught up and we enjoyed another “sigh” relaxing interlude in the solitude that is Isle Royale.

From here on back to camp I walked with Jeff, who thankfully kept up a steady conversation about other hikes and future plans. By now I had caught on that this would be a 16-mile day and I was tired like a horse headed for the barn.

At long last: hot showers! There are three showers at Windigo, one of which was not recommended, so we lined up for the two good ones. Each is just a big concrete room with a door, no dividers, maybe a chair to put your clothes on. The idea is to get naked and be completely ready before you put in that precious token to start the water. One woman came out proclaiming that it was the best five minutes of her life…and I concur. And I didn’t even use my second token.

Jeff went in after me. Cathy and I were standing around talking and waiting for Kim to finish up. Suddenly Jeff popped his head out the door and said, “My token doesn’t work.” He looked like someone had just told him there is no Santa. I have never seen such disappointment on an adult face. Was it the shower or the token? I had just used it myself with no problem.

Jeff waited for the other shower and I gave him my second token (see, there is a God, right?). I am pleased to report that it worked fine and Jeff was a happy camper.

Kim and Neil

We had clean bodies, clean clothes, a little more food and a bottle of Red Guitar wine that had been squirreled away in the extra duffel bag. After dinner, we toasted another wonderful day in the backcountry while perusing my National Parks Passport map, telling stories about places we’d been (Mike: everywhere; Kim: only one state to go and she will be done with all 50 before her 50th birthday) and places we want to go next. Night fell, the temperature dropped and we snuggled way down in sleeping bags while visions of hot showers and ferries danced in our heads.  

In the woods we return to reason and faith. ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

A Glimpse of Heaven

Isle Royale Backpack Trip – Day 2 – 8/31/10 - Feltdmann Lake to Island Mine – 14.7 Miles

Only 10 miles to hike today…or perhaps more? Everyone was up early and feeling better after a good night’s sleep. A nice surprise that we were all totally dry, no rain, no dew, not even moisture underneath our groundcloths. And a blue sky above…we must be doin’ somethin’ right! We ate breakfast, packed up, and left in dribs and drabs for our 10-mile hike to our next camp at Siskiwit Bay.
 

A rare sighting of the hiking girlz together - Cathy and Kim were usually way out in front of me

After a short steep section, Cathy and Jeff and I strolled on Feldtmann Ridge, easy hiking except for the high weeds. Just as I was wondering if this was the highlight of our scenery for the day, we found a spectacular view back down to Feldtmann Lake. Hikers enjoy looking back from other vantage points to where they’ve been (looking ahead is fun, too).

Jeff the photo- grapher

Grasses bending in the breeze alerted us that it would be windy at the Feldtmann Tower.

Feldtmann Tower

In fact, it was too windy to stay up there more than a minute. We took a snack break on the ground before continuing on our route.

By now Cathy was formulating an alternative plan. The hiking was easy and we would be at Siskiwit Bay by early afternoon. Why not push on to the next campsite on our loop? Although we registered our route as required with the backcountry office, flexibility is tolerated as conditions warrant. After all, Isle Royale is not exactly crowded with backpackers. If we continued on to the Island Mine campsite then our third day could be shorter and we would have time for more exploration of the Washington Creek area. Seemed like a good idea…

As often happens on a long hike, you find yourself walking with different people at different times. I was talking with Neil as he was photographing butterflies when we entered this magical birch forest that took our breath away. Thin white trunks swaying in the gentle breeze, papery peeling bark, knee-deep green ferns, glimpses of Carolina blue sky and puffy white clouds above: surely heaven looks a little like this.

At 1:30 p.m. we all arrived at Siskiwit Bay, a favorite spot for boaters and fisherman, although we were the only souls here today. In addition to group sites, there are three-sided shelters with fully screened fronts and (small squeal of delight) pit latrines WITH TOILET PAPER. You backpackers out there know what I’m talking about. The decision had been made to push on to Island Mine rather than stay at Siskiwit, but we lazed around for a couple of hours with our boots off, massaging toes in those warm red pebbles again, snacking, refilling water bottles and cat napping.

That's me out on the end of the jetty

Exactly why are we leaving this paradise? Oh, yeah, because it’s early…

Nice walk along the beach at Siskiwit Bay - Jeff is happy with his new stick

Beautiful goldenrod

Back into the woods

But who put these mountains here? It seems that Cathy reads mileage but not elevation gain, and we were no better because none of us pulled out our maps to look at topo lines until we were gasping uphill. The 4.3 miles to Island Mine was a killer.

One bright spot: Jeff’s GPS map that he had uploaded showed that there was a cemetery somewhere along this section and we found it. I spotted a chainsawed tree that appeared to be blocking a side trail, and about 50 yards through the woods we found this interesting setup. The graves are outlined in stones, but the fence is quite new. (When I asked a ranger back at the ranger station about these graves, he was very tight-lipped and would only admit that there were “probably” graves around since people did once inhabit the island in mining camps.)

Neil and I were the last to arrive at Island Mine and set up tents. The water source was skimpy, certainly not a big enough creek to dip Cathy’s 4-liter gravity filter bag into, so we dipped water with a cup into the bag. Improvising is part of the fun.

We boiled water for rehydrating meals and tasted each other’s dishes. Jeff finished off my dinner because I couldn’t hold it all and Jeff’s stomach is bottomless. For a surprise treat, I brought a Mountain House mocha mousse pie which we all shared, a few spoonfuls of chocolate heaven per person. At this point in the trip all worries about germs were abandoned and we would have shared one spoon if necessary.

Backpackers rarely build fires because (1) they are a lot of work (2) we are usually tired and ready for sleep and (3) Leave No Trace principles. Fires on Isle Royale are only allowed at established fire rings like the one at our Island Mine group site. On this rare occasion Neil built an excellent teepee fire and for an hour or so we sat mesmerized by the flames, telling stories and drinking homemade cherry wine given to Mike by friends. Cathy hung her jog bra on a stick and held it over the fire to dry marshmallow roasting style.

For the two seconds after I lay down and before I drifted off to sleep, I thought about how varied the day had been: the lookout tower, the birch forest, the beautiful bay, the tough climb, the firelight and the jokes. What a splendiferous day!  

Never know when you’re making a memory; they will wish they was here together again someday ~ Rickie Lee Jones

W-E-Y-G-T-D?

Isle Royale Backpack Trip – Day 1 – 8/30/10 – Windigo to Feltdmann Lake – 8.5 Miles

Zero fun to get up at 5:00 a.m. and pack up wet gear – much yawning and little conversation. We drove to the ferry at Grand Portage, MN, watched our backpacks get tossed onto the pile, and took a few “before” photos.

Let's see...Mary Ann, Ginger, Gilligan, Mr Howell, Mrs Howell, and the Professor... where's Skipper?

I guess that's him...although he looks more like Captain Ahab.

(Ask Jeff to tell you his pirate joke. It was so good that we asked him to repeat it every day of the trip.)

The two-hour ferry ride was chilly and bumpy and packed with passengers. Some stayed at the front of the boat, some stayed inside, and I hung out in the back for a while before sitting inside to warm up. Similar to mingling at a party, we met new folks and discussed plans and swapped stories. Several people had been to the Great Smokies, i.e. Cades Cove, and I encouraged them to go back again with a more varied itinerary. At last we cruised into Washington Harbor.

Some background on Isle Royale National Park: Some animals that made the 15-mile commute from Canada to this island left behind by melting glaciers were moose, beaver, foxes, and wolves. Notably missing are black bears, raccoons and white-tailed deer. Its history of human habitation includes Native Americans who were regularly mining for copper by 2000 B.C. White explorers discovered it in the late 17th century and by the 1800’s mining was in full swing. Fishing camps were also big business on the island until the beginning of the 20th century, when tourism became an interest. Then in 1931 Congress passed a bill creating Isle Royale as a national park. A great resource is Isle Royale National Park Foot Trails & Water Routes by Jim DuFresne. He says, “Today Isle Royale is one of our smallest national parks and one of the most costly to visit. Special transportation is needed to get there…and numerous backpackers give the park one of the longest visitation averages (the amount of time a visitor stays) in the country; on the average, tourists spend only a few hours in Yellowstone National Park, but they will stay 4 days at Isle Royale.”

At the ferry dock is the “town” of Windigo, in reality the Park office, a camp store and a bath house with hot showers – no roads, no swimming pools, no movie stars. Our backpacks were tossed off of the boat and I discovered that mine was thoroughly soaked, possibly from someone’s leaking water bottle. I pouted for a while, but was soon distracted by the mandatory ranger orientation which was superbly done, including audience participation. We learned to always keep our possessions in our tents, including food - no hanging bear bags, but sneaky foxes will take anything, including your boots so they can lick the sweaty salt.

 

Welcome to Windigo!

Our backpack route consisted of a three-day, two-night loop ending in a third night back at the Washington Creek camping area (near Windigo) to await the ferry on Thursday morning. The ferry doesn’t come every day – a sneaky way to extend your visit time. At the camp store we deposited a duffel bag containing a change

of clothes and toiletries for each person, a little food for the third night, and an essential bottle of something to celebrate. We grabbed some sandwiches and ate lunch on the deck, admiring the unseasonably warm weather and our good fortune at being in such a remote part of the world.

We set off on our 8.5-mile hike to the Feldtmann Lake backcountry campsite. But…why were we all so tired? We had to stop and regroup every hour. This was not difficult hiking by any means – after all, we were veterans of the Great Smokies and all points of western NC – but we were dragging. It must be the lack of sleep the night before and the early departure. But we pushed on, becoming engaged with the character of the trail, noting familiar and unfamiliar plants. Canada dogwood (aka bunchberry) grew in masses across the forest floor, little red berries peeping out everywhere. There were lots of planks over marshy areas. We would see these features in our wanderings all over the island during the next three days.

Loved these intertwined roots

Moose antlers beside the trail

At the Feldtmann Lake group site we chose an area and set up tents. We lightened our packs and followed another trail for a mile to the southern shore of Feltdmann Lake, an interior lake on an island in a lake.

 

Lake Superior at Rainbow Cove, known for its beautiful sunsets. We carried all our food and cooking supplies and settled in at the lakeshore to await the evening’s show.

The beach is all red pebbles, no sand at all, a little tricky to walk on but a great massage for tired toes.

We learned how to work Cathy’s gravity filter and enjoyed that chillin’ lake water.

We uncorked the bottle of wine that Kim had carried and toasted the end of our first day in such good company on an awesome adventure.

Difficult

to choose a favorite sunset photo

We hiked back to camp in the fading light and as the guys settled down to shoot the breeze, I crawled into my tent and popped a Tylenol PM to calm my throbbing thumb. Cathy and Kim called us to the shore of Feldtmann Lake just a few yards away to look at the emerging stars, but after a short time I had to lie down and let exhaustion take over. I missed the moonrise, but that was okay.

 At some point during this day our mantra for the remainder of the trip was born. I believe it was Kim that commented on getting something way down in her pack and what an effort that would take, to which Mike dryly replied: What else you got to do?

Ah, the pleasures of the backcountry: no phones, no internet, no TV, no watches, no jobs, no responsibilities, no way to tackle any of the daily chores even if you wanted to. Just lean back, relax, raise your cup and make a toast. What else you got to do?

Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished. ~Lao Tzu, ancient Chinese philosopher

The Big Lake They Call Gitche Gumee

Isle Royale NP & Apostle Islands Trip - North Shore Minnesota – Day 1 – 8/28/10 

Members of the Carolina Berg Wanderers, a hiking group in the Charlotte, NC area, are adventurous souls who like to hike, bike, paddle and play both locally and globally. While our backyards of North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia have enough outdoor adventures to last a lifetime, occasionally someone gets a wild idea to go farther. I confess I had never heard of Isle Royale National Park before Cathy tossed it out as a destination, but I knew that big fun was likely to ensue, so I signed on literally sight unseen. Over several months we planned different aspects of the trip, with Cathy taking the lead since she was familiar with the area.

And that’s how I found myself in the Minneapolis airport with Cathy, Jeff, Kim and Neil, stuffing duffel bags into a rental van for a two-day drive up the North Shore of Minnesota. First stop: Target for a food supply. We would be camping and backpacking for the next eight days.


En route we stopped in Duluth, MN (cute town!) supposedly for a visit to a local outfitter shop, but the Portland Malt Shoppe ruined us right off the bat. For the rest of the trip when food was scarce, we daydreamed about these malts.

Our first adventure stop was at the Split Rock Lighthouse to meet up with our friend Mike, recently retired and meandering across the country in his customized van (aka “home”). At Mike’s invitation, I jumped ship from the rental’s back seat to his front seat for the next few days.

I expected Split Rock Lighthouse to be a lonely, brooding place, but there was quite a lively park atmosphere on this Saturday afternoon, lots of families and children. We walked on several short paths up high on the cliffs and down to the shore of the much-anticipated Lake Superior. The big Gitche Gumee will be our focus for the rest of our trip. (And "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald" was in our head for days.)

Southern innocents, we took off our shoes and plunged right in – but this ain’t Myrtle Beach! Our feet were numb within seconds. I had to hold onto Cathy to keep from falling.







Cathy got the scoop on another overlook point a few miles further up the coast, so we headed for Palisade Head, which is part of Tettegouche State Park but not contiguous with the rest of the park. Here are Mike and Neil on the huge rock outcropping of Palisade Head.

View of Shovel Point from Palisade Head. We'll be looking from there back to here tomorrow.

The view looking straight down: a hardy ash tree holding on for dear life

At last we headed towards our first night’s home that Mike had reserved for us at Eckbeck Campground in Finland State Forest. I have a brand new tent from my friend Judy Gross (Heartfire) of LightHeart Gear that uses only my hiking poles and stakes to set up and I was anxious to try it out. I was also anxious to eat supper. In my haste to set up camp, I tripped and fell out of the tent opening, catching myself with my left hand and bending back my left thumb at a very unattractive angle. During dinner I held onto a glass of ice water and watched my thumb swell up impressively.

At the Northern Lights Roadhouse we had an excellent meal. We chatted with the waitress and asked her a question about some of the local sites, to which she replied that she was new here herself, she had just moved from Charlotte, North Carolina. Ha!

A slightly restless first night’s sleep in a new state after a long, long day. And my thumb hurt. (Postscript: when I got back home to Charlotte I had my thumb x-rayed ~ broken.)

Never do anything that you wouldn't want to explain to the paramedics. ~Author Unknown