Camí De Ronda – Cadaqués, Spain – 4/11/19 - 4 Miles
Hiking in Spain on my birthday – what a gift! Jim and I spent a few days visiting Costa Brava in Spain with our daughter, Megan, and her partner, Jordi. Our home base was an Airbnb apartment in L’Escala that allowed us to daytrip up and down the magnificent Mediterranean coast. I love hiking on my birthday to remind me of how fortunate I am in health and time and spirit – and this year was extra-special.
Exactly where in the world are we? Cadaqués is a coastal town in the province of Girona, Catalonia, Spain. It’s about 100 miles up the coast from Barcelona and about 12 miles from the French border.
Found a souvenir rock
Meg and Jordi explored the food situation while Jim and I tackled a little bit of the Camí de Ronda around the peninsula. Trail names and route-finding is a bit messy, and “Camí de Ronda” is a generic name as part of the GR92 coastal path which runs pretty much the length of Spain. We downloaded a snippet and did our best to follow it – with mixed results. [Some blogs about hiking in this part of the world are here and here and here – good luck!]
Walking around the crescent of the town center. Gee, I wonder what the trail signs will look like?
Is this right?
Found it! The first of NOT ENOUGH signs
Making progress, but the lack of signage was now a problem
The trail skirts along the bottom edge
A bit of a scramble down a thickly wooded slope with multiple user paths brought us to this cove
Back on the path (a path)
Past the homes with nice manicured garden terraces, the trail passes empty, overgrown hillsides with stacked-stone terrace walls that contained olive trees and grapevines in years past
Port Lligat is in sight where we are meeting up with Megan and Jordi
And here is where we lost the path (photo below). The stone steps go directly to the water, where presumably boats would be tied up. The iron gate into the walled garden did not budge. Clearly it wasn’t possible to walk around the outside of the wall. What else could we do?
Scramble up the neglected hillside, hauling ourselves over the terrace walls (easy for Jim, difficult for me) and through the dense vegetation. At first we were encouraged by a path obviously made by others, but it petered out and we made our own path.
Meanwhile, Megan and Jordi saw our tiny figures fighting through rough terrain and wondered, “What the hell are they doing? Why aren’t they on the path?”
After a half-mile up the hill, around the bend to a road, and downhill on pavement, we reached level ground and the shoreline at last.
So our hiking adventure was done. Whether the iron gate was locked or we didn’t try hard enough to move it, that detail is left for the ages. Walking back through the village in search of a nice café for a celebratory birthday lunch was just as interesting.
Lunch at Lua
All together we spent 10 spectacular days in Spain, from the coast to the mountains to the hustle and bustle and museums of Barcelona (I got pickpocketed on the subway). We ate, we drank, we ate – those Spaniards eat eat eat! Our trip of a lifetime for 2019!