Monday, July 31, 2023

Colorado 2022: Pikes Peak, Garden of the Gods & Colorado Springs

Colorado 2022: Pikes Peak, Garden of the Gods and Colorado Springs – 8/7/22 – 4 Miles

In a high-level planning meeting (pizza, beer & cider) Jim and I pitched summer travel ideas to each other. We’ve gotten good at this game: come up with five ideas each, do enough research to show you’ll work for it, and together we whittle it down to one or two for further study.

Contestants included Idaho, Oregon, Upstate New York, Colorado, and a few others, all outdoors oriented. Colorado wasn’t at the top of either list, until we started digging deeper. National parks? Check. Cooler temperatures in summer? Check. Easy flight? A direct and inexpensive flight made Colorado our top choice. 

Ten days before our departure, our daughter-in-law suffered a serious broken ankle, leaving her in a townhouse with their 4-month-old baby, 2 dogs, 2 cats, unable to walk or drive. We live nearby and considered canceling our trip, but friends rallied to help – and best of all, their little family moved into our larger and more accessible house during our absence. So we were “helping” by leaving!

Flying to Denver at the crack of dawn, traveling light with no checked bags, the only unnecessary thing I carried was a persistent cough and cold from baby Benjamin. We picked up our rental car and headed to Colorado Springs, the first stop on our ambitious road trip.

En route we stopped at Walmart to buy food and supplies. No checked bags meant I didn’t bring my hiking poles. I bought a set at Walmart for $22 and they were perfect for our short dayhikes. Much better than a checked bag costing $35 each way (not to mention the possibility of the airline losing it)!

We spent our first two nights in Old Colorado City, first established as a town in the summer of 1859 during the Pikes Peak Gold Rush, providing supplies to eager miners on their way to Ute Pass to get rich quick. It is now a neighborhood in Colorado Springs. Late in the afternoon, we walked around as the artsy shops were closing. At OCC Brewery, we sat at the sidewalk bar with a view of Pikes Peak on the horizon and watched the world go by. 

Our Airbnb was a repurposed trolley car, unique, adorable, well-equipped and comfortable. A long travel day with the time change - lights out at 8pm! Jim was glad I had serious cough and cold medicine.

After a good night’s rest and morning coffee, we headed to the mountain known to the indigenous Ute people as Tavá Kaa-vi, the Sun Mountain. In 1806, it was “discovered” by American explorer Zebulon Pike. Read more about the Ute people here and check out a detailed timeline of history of the mountain here. For this blog post I will refer to the mountain as Pikes Peak.

Pikes Peak, part of the Rocky Mountains, is the most visited mountain in North America. It’s one of Colorado’s 14-ers, 14,115 feet above sea level. It’s also 8,000 feet higher than Colorado Springs, so we knew we were going up up up on Pikes Peak Highway 20 miles to the summit. The road is crazy steep in some places, with several pull-offs to try to capture the view. Good luck with that.

The top of the mountain is a broad moonscape of rocks (basketball size to tailgate cooler size) with boardwalks to keep humans off whatever vegetation there is. The temperature had dropped dramatically so we donned hats and coats.

Resident marmots can go wherever they want

The new Pikes Peak Summit Visitor Center opened to the public on June 24, 2021

Jim had never been at elevation above 10,000 feet and when he walked up a short set of steps at his regular pace, he was surprised to be short-winded at just a little effort. I also felt it, but expected to, but I didn’t get a headache as I had feared. [My experiences with altitude have been mixed, sometimes okay, sometimes debilitating.]

On the drive up we passed several cyclists climbing to the top. One of them arrived at the summit sign as we were taking photos. Jim was excited and asked about the climb – the guy had ridden from Montreal! In a charming French accent he said, “Yes, I am in very good shape.”

We wandered around all the boardwalks and overlooks, met a man named Steve who was on a trip to celebrate his 65th birthday. Everyone should be like Steve – do something awesome on your birthday!

Another way to reach the top is the three-hour round trip ride on the Pikes Peak Cog Railway starting from Manitou Springs. [We didn’t go this route because it only allows for 40 minutes at the summit.]

On a viewing stand, waving my arms so you know it’s me

 

Mile-Hi Donuts are the specialty in the VC cafeteria.
One of these plus coffee had me buzzing for hours.

Descending the winding road was as exciting as the ascent, discovering more viewpoints

Next on the agenda: Garden of the Gods (another sacred site for the Ute people and other indigenous nations). This 1,341-acre National Natural Landmark was donated to the City of Colorado Springs in 1909 by the family of deceased owner Charles Elliott Perkins, with the provision that it be a free public park. [Read more history here on Wikipedia.]

We began at the VERY crowded visitor center, but couldn’t get through the mob to see exhibits, so we grabbed a map showing 21 miles of trails. Hmmm?  With the benefit of two minutes of advice from an intrepid staffer, we went for the standard option: the Gateway Trail to the Perkins Central Garden Trail that winds through the heart of the rock formations.

Paved walkways, good signage and maps make this an accessible and interesting walk for all ages. The red rocks seem to erupt from the flat valley floor. Did I mention it was VERY crowded and VERY HOT? So let’s just look at some photos and make up your own captions.

The Three Graces

Dinner and beverages at Manitou Brewing Company in cute little Manitou Springs
 (aka Gatlinburg to my NC friends)

Back at our cozy little trolley home-away-from-home, a thunderstorm came through, lulling us to sleep with rain pounding on the roof. Tomorrow we’re heading south.

“When it don’t rain, the roof don’t leak
When it rains, I can’t fix it nohow.”
~Robert A. Heinlein


Sunday, July 9, 2023

Pisgah 400: Untangling A Knot & Black Mountain Trail

Pisgah 400: Untangling A Knot & Black Mountain Trail - 7/20/22 – 10.3 Miles

Deep in the heart of Pisgah National Forest

My hike plan in Pisgah NF started from Turkey Pen Gap. I’ve driven the gravel road to the Gap before, but today was a whole ‘nother level of “rough.” After an eternity of dodging bathtub-sized potholes (also bouncing in and out of a few) I arrived at the empty parking area. My spidey sense told me that maybe leaving my car at the end of a bad road on a deserted weekday wasn’t a good choice.

Go to Plan B. (On this multi-day visit to Pisgah NF, I’d left multiple hike plans with Jim and kept him advised of what I was doing and where my car would be at all times.)

The Black Mountain trailhead parking is off Highway 276, just before the Visitor Center and nearly opposite the entrance to Davidson River Campground. It’s a busy lot, the launching pad for mountain bikers as well as hikers.

The parking was easy but this hike plan was less straightforward, as I soon learned that the tangle of trails on the ground was more complicated than depicted on my paper maps. Even my GAIA maps contained inaccuracies. I recorded my route so that if confusion came up, I could get myself back to my car.

Starting on a gravel track that GAIA calls Starnes Branch Road [should be “Starens.”]
There’s a Black Mountain Trail sign somewhere in the weeds.

Bikes have been here

At a U-shaped bend, the roadbed goes right and becomes Thrift Cove Trail (#603), while Black Mountain Trail (#127) continues straight. I stuck with Thrift Cove Trail as it makes a nice loop intersecting Black Mountain Trail further up. 

The fungus show was still in town

I discovered Starens Branch Trail (#127A). On GAIA it’s called “Black Mountain Connector.”
A very nice hiking-only shortcut that I walked out-and-back to Thrift Cove Trail.


Next I turned right onto Grassy Road Trail (#364) and walked to its intersection with Sycamore
 Cove Trail. I enjoyed this sweet, level, solitary trail. Again I retraced steps to Thrift Cove Trail.


Now that the knot of intersecting trails was untangled, it was time to climb the mountain.

Thrift Cove Trail is a wide, undulating old roadbed that climbs about 2 miles to connect to Black Mountain Trail. A lone mountain biker started up just ahead of me. 

Nodding lady’s tresses (orchid family)

As I walked up Thrift Cove I made mental calculations of time and distance. Instead of turning left at the Black Mountain Trail junction and looping back to the parking lot, could I turn right and ascend to Pressley Gap, adding about 3.5 more miles to the day's total? I’m already here, right?

Decision time at high noon! At the junction I decided to go for it, continue up Black Mountain Trail
 for one hour and see how far I get 


Did I mention that this is a steep, steep, relentlessly steep trail? Ugly, too, but it serves a purpose. Let's look at some more fungi.

The trail mercifully flattens out for a minute, cruising through mountain laurel tunnels as it curves around below the summit of Hickory Knob.

I began to encounter mountain bikers coming my way. They’d worked hard to climb up and were now careening carelessly down the roller coaster. One called out “hiker!” and said there were just two of them (helpful heads-up). A few minutes after they passed, another rider popped around a curve and I asked, “Anyone else?” He answered, “Probably.” (Not helpful.)

From Hickory Knob, I descended the short distance to Pressley Gap, dripping with sweat but pleased that I’d made my turnaround point in 40 minutes. Time now to reverse course for the home stretch.

Three cyclists passed me and soon stopped to regroup, and we chatted for a minute about how humid it was (still better than being inside) and having these great trails to share. Nice fellows.

I ended at the parking lot feeling hot but accomplished, another bite out of the Pisgah 400 Challenge in exactly 4 hours and 10.3 miles.

“I may not be there yet,
but I'm closer than I was yesterday.”
  ~Author Unknown