Shining Rock

Shining Rock SB6K Summit – 5/19/12 – Old Butt Knob Trail/Art Loeb Trail/Greasy Cove Trail – 13+ Miles – 3600’ elev gain

Steadily chipping away at this SB6K hiking challenge.  I am becoming more and more enamored of the Middle Prong and Shining Rock Wildernesses on the Blue Ridge Parkway in western North Carolina, where a bunch of these SB6K peaks hang out.  For all the time I’ve been hiking, I’ve never been to see the namesake of Shining Rock.  Well, the time is now.  Get ready - this may be my longest, most photo-filled post ever.

I met my hiking good-luck charm, Jeff, and his friend Sharon on a beautiful Saturday morning at our usual meeting spot.  Sharon is also a young’un like Jeff, but I told him that he would have to find another way to distinguish us than “old” Sharon and “young” Sharon.  All day long he struggled as we both answered whenever he spoke.  I don’t think he found an equitable way to address us.  

Jeff promised a strenuous summit (always go for the most elevation gain, right?) so we started from the Big East Fork parking area off Highway 276.  Immediately after we got out of my car we were approached by three large unleashed dogs, begging for food.  They did not seem to hear their owners who were lamely calling them.  Welcome to the wilderness, kind of the wild west of the outdoors, where everybody does whatever they want.  Some even follow the rules.

By 10:30 a.m. we started on Shining Creek Trail.  I forgot my map, but Jeff let me carry his because it’s my security blanket and he has his GPS.  One of my goals for the day was to get better oriented via the map, since these wilderness areas are not signed or blazed. 

This is exactly where Jim and I got lost about eight years ago trying to do a “quick” hike to Shining Rock before one of our kids’ band competitions at Western Carolina University.  Using a guidebook and no other map, we quickly got confused with all the social trails running to campsites along Shining Creek and had to abandon the plan.  We experienced that, “Oh, crap, which way did we come” feeling for a few minutes when we decided to turn back.  Now I am a little better at reading the trail but not enough to feel comfortable yet out here by myself.

For instance, at an early junction the left trail (very wide and obviously heavily used) was blocked by a large log.  Back then I’m sure we stepped over the log without noticing it and hiked merrily on to campsites near the creek.  Now I know that a big log or pile of branches across a trail means “you probably don’t mean to go this way if you’re passing through.”  And when the Old Butt Knob Trail appeared on the right (no sign) today, I still would have likely missed it if Jeff hadn’t steered us to the turn. 

Old Butt Knob Trail is well named.  It is extremely steep with sustained stepping up on boulders and climbing up Chestnut Ridge.  My poor old butt got a workout.  And yet…we were in Shining Rock Wilderness on a spectacular spring day and life was very good.  

Mountain laurel bloomed profusely from the get-go

A few steps on a side trail to the left gave long range views of what was coming up, plus a moment to catch our breath and grab a snack.  I’m looking at the long stretch of Raven Cliff Ridge.

Brave mountain laurel growing in the rock

Jeff doing the limbo

Purple and pink rhododendron began to appear overhead and only got better as we continued the climb.  Get ready for the rhodo show!

Thank you, sir, may I have another?

 Up close and eye level for Sharon Appell

 Surprise - a white flame azalea

Nearly everyone we saw today had a dog, often more than one, some tiny ones on leashes or being carried, and German shepherds were favorites.  We passed one backpacker who actually had bear bells tinkling and two German Shepherds – protection against bears, I guess.

Painted trillium

Wood betony

And how did this rock get split so evenly?

I love how every high and low point has a name out in the wild.  After all, that’s how the folks from yesteryear kept track of their world.  After going over Old Butt Knob, we passed through Spanish Oak Gap, climbed some more up over Dog Loser Knob, hiked down again through Beech Spring Gap, then finally found one of the summit trails to Shining Rock (once again Jeff had to lead us, I wouldn’t have seen it on my own).   This is Jeff and Sharon on the summit trail cutting through shoulder high blueberry bushes.

Another SB6K summit!

The white quartz is cold and slippery

My favorite:  Sam Knob from the summit of Shining Rock

After the summit, Jeff and Sharon and I continued on Old Butt Knob Trail, passing multiple side trails presumably all going to Shining Rock.  Really, how many people get lost here every weekend?    We passed through a big camping area on the trail, filled with a Boy Scout troop with lots of equipment. 

Onward to Shining Rock Gap, where I have been before on our hike to Cold Mountain.  Five or six trails come together here with no signs.  I spent a few minutes with our map and Jeff’s GPS, trying to get oriented to the intersection.  To continue our loop route we turned left onto Art Loeb Trail, mostly out in the open.  We passed the Shining Creek Trail coming in from the left, which is a few hundred feet from the big intersection, although on the map it looks like it’s part of the intersection.  Jeez Louise, I think I need to be led here a couple more times before I can feel confident alone.

Flower Gap, looking up at Flower Knob on the left and another big ol’ big Boy Scout troop camp setup.  Nice for them, kinda spoils the view for the rest of us. 

After a mile or so of open rolling terrain we arrived at the side trail to Grassy Cove Top, an SB6K peak that Jeff and I have already done.  We hinted that Sharon might want to do this little side jaunt in case she ever felt enticed to do the challenge, so up we went. 

Next Jeff showed us a shortcut to reach Grassy Cove Trail (aka Greasy Cove Trail – some people can’t spell), cutting out about a mile of our loop.  The time was getting away from us because of our (my?) slow ascent.  Jeff says Grassy Cove is one of his favorite trails, lots of…grassy areas.  It really is very nice,  some great tucked away campsites…but no water.  Gotta plan ahead.

Clinton's Lily?

The downhill was steep in places, knees and feet taking a pounding.  Sharon thought she had a stress fracture in her foot that was giving her trouble.  A few weeks ago I pulled the top part of my hamstring and it was making me cringe.  The walking wounded.

On Greasy Cove Trail we ran into three backpacker guys collecting water at a small spring.  They asked us where they were.  They were aiming for Shining Rock and had taken verbal directions from someone to “turn right” at a certain spot, but apparently turned right way too soon.  I asked if they had a map and one guy sheepishly shook his head and said no.  (Cue judgmental thoughts about people who go into a wilderness area without a map - look how nervous I am even with one.)  Jeff gave them simple basic advice to turn around and go back to the top of the trail and a left turn would take them back out.  I suggested that they ask every person they meet from now on to help verify where they are.  They seemed properly equipped for an overnight trip except for not knowing how to navigate. 

Our biggest water crossing of the day was at Greasy Cove Prong, a careful rock hop.   Jeff and Sharon used my hiking poles.  They don’t use poles because they are young and invincible, but they didn’t say no when I offered them to get across the creek.  

Greasy/  Grassy Cove Creek

Your moment of Zen

Vasey’s Trillium – bloom nodding beneath the leaves

Not to be confused with wakerobin – bloom standing above the leaves

Soon we reached the crossing for East Fork of the Pigeon River at its confluence with Greasy Cove Prong,  and on the other side was a campsite and a right turn onto Big East Fork Trail (this water was wider than the last crossing but with easy rocks to walk across).  Now we were following the East Fork, big water, lots of cascades, teasing glimpses of whitewater  through the trees, and a couple of times the trail dipped down to the water’s edge.  The time was getting late and we did not feel like we had the luxury to take side trails down to the water.  I really must explore this trail again.

A parting look at the East Fork

Like most hikes, this one seemed to go on a little too long, but we were back at the car at 6:45 p.m., a little more than 8 hours for this strenuous hike, including two food breaks and lots of photos.  We hiked a total of 13 miles with 3,600 feet of elevation gain.  All in all, a terrific day in the North Carolina mountains.

“Walk as if you are kissing the Earth with your feet.” ~ Thich Nhat Hanh

Training for Mt Kili (No, Not Me)

Mt Mitchell Trail – 5/5/12 – 6.5 Miles

My neighbor Mark mentioned back last winter that he and his son Jason were joining a group to summit Mount Kilimanjaro in June 2012.  He knows I’m a hiker (he isn’t) and asked for a little advice.  What could I say?  “Go hiking – oh, and carry a heavy pack.”  Now, Mark has a full-time job and a wife and a dog and other interests and I know he’s not going to drive to western North Carolina every weekend to climb a mountain.  He’s a very fit and strong guy (cyclist) and I’m a little skeptical that he will train for an experience that is going to cost a lot of money and that he may not complete.  But I learned that Mark is also very disciplined and serious about commitments, and he did train nearly every weekend at our closest little bump, Crowder's Mountain. 

So what could I do to help?  I took him to climb Mount Mitchell, the tallest mountain in the eastern United States at 6,684 feet.  Yeah, it’s not Kilimanjaro at 19,340 feet, but it’s as good as we got ‘round here. 

The Mount Mitchell Trail from Black Mountain Campground to the summit of Mt Mitchell is 6.5 miles.  I wanted to hike up and then down, but due to the long drive to and fro and other time constraints we had to make it a one-way hike.  My husband Jim stepped in to help out, agreeing to drop us off at the trailhead, then drive to the parking lot at the top and go for a bike ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway while we hiked.  (It is not hard to get Jim to go for a bike ride on the Parkway.)

Rain in the forecast turned into rain in real life.  As we turned onto the Blue Ridge Parkway it was coming down rather seriously and Jim was thinking he’d be reading a book in the car while he waited for Mark and me to hike up.  At the trailhead we suited up for a wet day. 

But…the woods were dripping but not pouring, and within 20 minutes the rain gear came off and we hiked the rest of the day with intermittent clouds but no rain.  Ain’t life grand?

Mark’s pack cover – it worked – it didn’t get wet!

The Mount Mitchell Trail runs concurrently with the Mountains-To-Sea Trail as it climbs about 3,500 feet to the summit, some parts steeper than others but every step moving upward.  Some fun stuff:

A neon orange salamander

Mark’s lunch bag

A great year for rhododendrons

Hhmmm… which way?

At about 1.5 miles the trail splits, but either direction is okay – it comes back together after just a quarter mile.  We took the left track, also known as the Higgins Bald Trail, only to find that Higgins Bald… is not.  The forest is taking it back.

A pretty stream crossing - as it goes over the edge to make a waterfall we can only hear. 

A big bad blow-down

Early in the hike we met a couple that hikes around Mount Mitchell regularly and the man was carrying a small chainsaw.  The week before they noted some storm damage and came back to take care of it, but someone had beat them to it.  Nice to have such dedicated local trail maintainers.

The trail switchbacks across an open area where power lines ascend the mountain.  While power lines are not pretty, it’s easy to look “through” them for the beautiful views.

In the last couple of miles the character of the trail changed from hardwoods to Fraser fir and hemlock, dense overhead, less sunlight, a Hansel-and-Gretel feeling.  We passed through an area that had experienced some of nature’s pruning during a fierce storm.

A small stream bubbling up over some interesting rock formations – looks like a quarry where the rock has been chipped out.

And we’re at the summit – Mount Mitchell!

Looking north to the SB6K and other peaks I have yet to conquer:  Mount Craig, Big Tom, Balsam Cone, Cattail Peak, Potato Hill

Looking east to Hawksbill and Table Rock at Linville Gorge (the "cat's ears" formation on the farthest ridge line)

Mark had no problems on this hike other than having to slow down for me.  Jim did get in a good bike ride, still a little wet and chilly, but a good day nonetheless, made better by introducing Mark to the Jack Frost Dairy Bar in Marion.  If you have never had ice cream at Jack Frost, get in the car right now and go there.

PS – Mark and his son Jason successfully summited Mt Kilimanjaro on June 24. 

The difference between try and triumph is a little umph.  ~Author Unknown

Discovering Uwharrie National Forest

Uwharrie Trail - Uwharrie National Forest – 4/21/12 – 6.5 Miles

At the invitation of member Karl Munn, I joined an outing of the Uwharrie Trail Club for a spring Saturday hike in Uwharrie National Forest, over 52,000 acres of protected land about an hour’s drive east of Charlotte, NC – yes, east.  On several occasions I have visited Morrow Mountain State Park, which butts up to the western edge of Uwharrie, but I have never ventured farther into the country’s oldest mountain range.  You read that right:  oldest.  Once similar to the Rockies, erosion had its way and now the Uwharries top out at about 1,000 feet.

What was I waiting for?  I am embarrassed to say that Uwharrie, although old and important and all that, never seemed adventurous as I always looked west for higher elevation.  After a fine day with some fun folks, I have been educated. 

There are around 65 miles of hiking-only trail within the forest, plus sections that are multi-use (horse, bike, even ORV).  The major hiking trail running north to south is the Uwharrie Trail. (I’ve read that we can thank Joe Moffit, who grew up roaming the Uwharries during the Great Depression, for making the trail a reality in the 1970’s when he served as scoutmaster for a troop of Boy Scouts earning their Eagle rank.)  There are three major trailheads and a couple of other minor roads that cross the trail.  We hiked a chunk in the middle, from the Horse Mountain Trailhead on Tower Road (SR 1134) southbound to the NC Hwy 109 Trailhead. 

The crew:  Karl, Annette, Robert and Don, plus me

Is that gal wearing a skirt, you ask?  Why, yes.  This was the first time I’d met Annette and she certainly made an impression on me.  Annette is a gregarious local, happy to share her ideas and love of the Uwharries and some interesting stories about the area and its residents.  That smile did not fade all day long. 

There was more up-and-down than I expected on this trail and a couple of times we had to stop talking to get up one of the rolling hills.  So much for the flat Piedmont!   Annette was scouting for out-of-the way camping spots for a solo overnight trip she was contemplating.  She sometimes hikes alone, mostly out of necessity, but she said she finds it peaceful and contemplative, much the same as I do.  Actually, when I first asked her how she felt about hiking alone she promptly answered, “I am never alone because the Lord is with me.”  Did I mention that Annette is a pastor? 

Don also was born, raised and still lives in the area.  He and Annette shared a couple of stories about the by-gone days of moonshining and we saw some rusty evidence of that pastime.  Our favorite story that had us slapping our legs with laughter was about a community called Black Ankle.  Such an odd name!  Well, they say that you could tell kids from that community by their black ankles, from running around bare-legged near the fires beneath the stills. 

A muddy crossing

Mountain laurel were bursting into bloom overhead

Uwharrie is a popular destination for Boy Scout troops from the eastern part of North Carolina.  We passed many of them along the trails.  For some reason, the adults were always bringing up the rear…

Doesn’t this look like the result of some scoutmaster saying, “All right, boys, go build something”?  And how about that fire ring made with quartz stones?

Nice bridge over a large stream

There were several tent cities set up along that stream – do not go here for solitude

As we got closer to our exit, more people streamed in loaded for an overnight stay.  One fellow carried a Barbie pink cooler and a “cube” container full of water, must have been a couple of gallons. Sorry, no photos, just trust me.

A day well spent exploring a new-to-me area practically in my back yard.  I look forward to hiking the other sections of the Uwharrie Trail and some of its connecting trails too.

Of course there is much more to Uwharrie National Forest than the tiny slice I enjoyed, including boating and water activities on Badin Lake and many campgrounds.  Check out the resources here and here.

To me a lush carpet of pine needles or spongy grass is more welcome than the most luxurious Persian rug.  ~Helen Keller