Smokies 900 Round 2 - Big Creek Flower Show

Smokies 900 Round 2 – 4/24/15 – Big Creek/Swallow Fork/Mt Sterling Ridge/Mt Sterling/Baxter Creek Trails – 17.1 Miles

Hiking friend Danny Bernstein invited me to participate in a Smokies 900 discussion panel at the Smokies Life Magazine reception as part of the Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage (whew!) in Gatlinburg, TN.  Danny authored a wonderful article about Smokies 900 completers for the magazine’s spring 2015 issue.  I was flattered and eager to sit on the panel as an excuse to visit my happy place, Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Driving all the way to Gatlinburg from Charlotte for a 5:00 p.m. event, looks like I’ll have to spend the night…

Been a couple of years since I saw the Tennessee side of the Smokies and I was jittery with anticipation.  Everyday life is complicated and I needed to unplug and enjoy an infusion of outdoors.  As I turned off Highway 40 at Exit 451, Dolly Parton’s celebration of the Smokies came on the radio:  “My Mountains, My Home.”  Is that a tear in my eye?

Big Creek, the only Smokies front- country camp- ground that I haven’t spent a night in. First come, first serve, only 12 sites, I was lucky enough to set up camp right beside the boisterous namesake. 

Big Creek

After a very short time lingering by the water, I drove on twisty-turny Highway 32 to Highway 321 and Gatlinburg.  I met Danny an hour before the event started, not enough time to truly catch up but we did our best as we ate Kilwin’s ice cream.  The reception and panel discussion was great fun, with many audience members tallying up more Smokies miles than the panelists.  (P.S.  I was vindicated to hear several 900 milers agree with me that the “worst” trail in the Park is Cold Spring Gap.)

Twisty-turny again (thank goodness it was still daylight) back to Big Creek and I met my next-campsite neighbors, a man and woman from Louisville.  They had hiked up to Mount Sterling via Baxter Creek Trail, part of my planned route for tomorrow.  They started a little campfire and produced wine flasks and a bottle of fireball whisky.  I was compelled to swap backpacking stories for an hour before turning in.  And what a sweet treat to sleep on a flat tent pad – my last several nights out have been on sloping backcountry sites. 

Daylight woke me at 6:00 a.m.  I ate a little breakfast, packed up, moved my car to the picnic parking area where I said hello to a backpacker getting ready to head out at the same time:  7:05 a.m.  A little morning chill.  I’ve done this exact hike before but felt as excited as if I were discovering a new country –  a different season, and every day in the Smokies is a new adventure.

Big Creek Trail is a wide old road bed following alongside Big Creek and the area is rich with history of native Americans, settlers and logging operations.  The trail itself was built by the CCC in the 1930’s.  The same crew constructed the Mount Sterling fire tower that I would pass later in the day.  The five miles of Big Creek Trail that I walked rises about 1,500 feet, barely noticeable, and is a wildflower mecca.  As I walked the broad trail I looked mostly to the right bank, stopping constantly to photograph the blooming plants, not trying to win awards, just trying to record what I saw to help in identification later.  If I had tried to look at the left-hand side too, I’d still be there.

Enough words, now let’s look at the pictures:

Stonecrop in abundance every few steps

Purple phacelia

Wild geranium

Carolina vetch

Doll’s-eyes - the white flowers look pretty and benign...

... while the fruits that appear in late summer are what gives this plant its creepy name (this photo from a Sept 2008 Smokies hike)

Squaw-root (no chlorophyll, a parasite that grows on oak roots)

A break in the action to check out one of Big Creek’s many cascades - looking for Midnight Hole but this wasn't it

Fifty yards to another cascade

Showy orchis, one of 30 orchids found in GSMNP

Exquisite

Found it!  Midnight Hole, a six-foot plunge with a wide, deep pool

Midnight Hole - this place will be full of swimmers during the summer

Mouse Creek Falls, where the backpacker and I caught up with each other

Dog hobble - one of my favorites

Bridge across Big Creek

Foamflower

Crested dwarf iris

Umbrella leaf - I get the name confused as elephant ear, because the leaves are as big as... well, an elephant's ear!

Umbrella leaf bloom

Meadow parsnip

Golden ragwort

Phlox and foamflower combo

Dwarf cinquefoil

Fringed phacelia

At 5.2 miles Big Creek Trail reaches Walnut Bottom and Campsite #37.  This is an easy backpack- ing destina- tion, a base camp to explore more trails of the park, or a turnaround point for a respectable 10-mile wildflower dayhike (enjoy the opposite side bank on the return trip).  My route turned left at 5.1 miles onto Swallow Fork Trail, nicely graded with several rock hop creek crossings as the trail climbs.  The ascent felt effortless as I took my time. 

Sweet white or northern white or Canadian Violet? 

A jaunty sweet white trillium seems to be saying hello

Clumps of sweet white trillium

Bridge across Swallow Fork

Yellow mandarin

A sad wake robin past its prime

McGinty Creek

Peeking at Mt Guyot

At Pretty Hollow Gap I took a lunch break.  This looks like a very tempting place to camp, but backcountry camping in the Park is restricted to designated sites and shelters which must be reserved.

Pretty Hollow Gap – spring beauties everywhere!

Spring beauties ready for their closeup

Ah, I thought, congratulating myself on getting all the uphill done with ease.  Then as I started on the 1.4-mile section of Mount Sterling Ridge Trail I realized that my vague recollection of it was inaccurate.  More elevation gain than I expected.  But I didn’t mind as I walked among the shady hemlocks. 

Then there was that half-mile of Mount Sterling Trail that isn’t designated on the little $1 map, more uphill.  I was surprised to see hoarfrost coming up from the ground. 

Highlight of my hike:  Mount Sterling fire tower

There is a backcountry campsite at the base, an open grassy area and some flat spots under the trees, very popular for nighttime lookouts from the top of the tower.  The six flights of stairs seem trustworthy but the flooring inside the cab is layers of plywood that look damp and rotten.  I was aware of being all alone as I climbed carefully up and down. 

Looking north from Mount Sterling tower.  I could see Max Patch, although it doesn't show up in the photo

Looking southwest from Mount Sterling tower – Mount Guyot is the high point of the left frame and Low Gap is in the right frame

Baxter Creek Trail, the last leg of the hike, and I was feeling confident with no aches or fatigue.  Only 6.1 miles!  But with 4,100 feet of descent, this is the steepest stretch of trail in the Park.  At the tower the chill was back, and although I had on shorts and short sleeves, I put my gloves on.  

Several different types of moss, none of which I can identify, grow among the spruce and fir trees.  Loved this moss-covered boulder.

An old sentinel

Freshly cut blowdown

Can someone please tell me what this is?

Painted trilliums were abundant along this trail. Some had dark forest green leaves and some had bright green leaves.

Dozens of painted trilliums

Common blue violet

More white violets

Not satisfied with identifying blooms, I also was on the lookout for emerging foliage and proud of myself for recognizing some.  But this - what is this?  Yellow bead lily?  Clinton’s lily?  So much to learn.

Indian cucumber foliage

Rattlesnake plantain foliage

Mayapple foliage

Two miles on Baxter Creek Trail and I started to feel it, knees hurting, wondering if blisters were underway.  But what are you gonna do?  Four more miles.  Keep looking at the flowers.  I could feel the temperature go up as the trail went down. 

False Solomon seal

Solomon’s seal (bad photo)

Toothwort

Brook lettuce

Yellow trillium

Purple phacelia bringing me home

All together over the course of the day I identified 43 different wildflowers.  Not pictured are:

dutchman’s breeches
squirrel corn
one fire pink on Big Creek Trail
star chickweed
bishop’s cap
bluet
trout lily
wood anemone
rue anemone
round leaved violet
Halberd-leaved violet
sweet cicely
silverbell
dogwood

This was one of the best days of my hiking life.  

“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery – air, mountains, trees.  I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy.’”  ~Sylvia Plath

Pisgah 400 Hiking Challenge: It's Official

Pisgah 400 - Pisgah Inn Hike - 4/18/15 – 13.3 Miles

In search of wildflowers, weather forecast be damned, we’re heading to Pisgah National Forest.  Our fearless leader, Jeff, devised a rambling route with an unusual treat along the way.  I haven’t hiked in Pisgah NF very much, and when I go alone I usually get lost.  National forest and wilderness management standards are different than national parks, state parks, or the Appalachian Trail.  There is less signage, often less trail maintenance, and confusing unofficial trails that are not indicated on maps.  (And I am a map girl.)  So going with a group with an experienced leader (Jeff has hiked all of the PNF trails) was very appealing to me, even for a rainy day.

Gathering our group from four different cities to the trailhead required several stops to meet people, consolidate cars, etc., and we didn’t get on the trail at Grassy Lot Gap until after 10:30 a.m.  And of course the first miles were up.  But, hey, at least it wasn’t raining yet.

Pilot Rock Trail was steep but easy to follow and gave a nice view right when we needed a breather.  Around this point is when we were passed by four mountain bikers going downhill – watch out!  Not much warning. 

Mid-April was still too early for most wildflowers, although emerging foliage made promises. Tiny trailing arbutus was a treat.

Mark hiked barefoot , says he loves it – but he did put on his trail shoes for lunch and kept them on.

After 3.6 miles on Pilot Rock Trail we turned left onto Thompson Creek Trail, which careened steeply down to the creek and then marched right back up.  Maybe in the warmer months with green vegetation this trail is easier to discern, but it was pretty darn faint to me.  Glad we had Jeff at the front with his GPS track to be sure we were staying on course.

At the point where Thompson Creek Trail takes a 90-degree left turn onto Thompson Ridge…we didn’t.  Jeff led us up an even fainter not-on-the-map-but-trust-me-I-know-where-I’m-going manway to the Mountains-To-Sea Trail (finally, something familiar!).  From there it was a short walk to the Pisgah Inn and its outstanding restaurant for a leisurely lunch.  I enjoyed a delicious grilled veggie wrap and fresh fruit, saved half of the wrap for the hike back down so I could inhale some blackberry cobbler.

The gang at Pisgah Inn, full of lunch and not at all anxious to get back on the trail

Couldn’t we just sit in these rocking chairs instead?

We resumed our hike with an out-and-back side trip on the MST to Buck Spring Gap, the site of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Springs hunting lodge built in the 1890’s.  Nothing there now but the view and the stone walls of a cellar.

View from Buck Springs Lodge site – what big dark cloud?

After backtracking on the MST, we turned left to complete the little bit of Pilot Rock Trail to where we had left it for Thompson Creek Trail (are you following along on your map now?)

Surprisingly there was another little mountain to climb, not sure if it has a formal name.  Then the dark black cloud released its rain and we scrambled for pack covers.  At the next left junction, we scrambled for rain jackets. 

Chris and Kim and their primary colors

The short Laurel Mountain Connector led to Laurel Mountain Trail, where we paused to take a happy photo before turning right and splashing our way downhill.  There was a brief discussion of “how far do we want to go in this rain?” with consensus that at the next decision point we would, well, decide.  The steep footing slowed us down, but after you give yourself over to the rain it can be kinda fun.  As fellow hiker Terry said, “Nothing is better than a rainy day hiking with friends.” 

A couple of miles later, Jeff turned us right onto yet another connector that exists in real life but not on the map.  

At the crossing of Slate Rock Creek, still no wildflower blooms, but we saw these emerging lady slippers.   I wonder…pink or yellow?

We intersected Slate Rock Creek Trail for a short while, then came to our shortcut decision point.  By now the rain had slackened, nearly disappeared, so we chose to continue on Jeff’s original crazy patchwork route.  This meant a U-shaped route along Pilot Cove Loop to some of the best viewpoints of the entire hike. 

Ah, yes, the view from Slate Rock – looking at Pilot Rock on the upper right.  I love it when I can see another point on the trail.  Reminds me of McAfee Knob and Tinker Cliffs on the AT in Virginia.

Dripping wet serviceberry tree

Painted trillium

What is this?  Looks like doghobble but only bare branches, not doghobble leaves

The rest of the hike took us downhill to Pilot Cove Trail, through a low area carpeted in trout lily foliage – whoever hikes here a week or so later will see millions of those delicate yellow beauties – then onto an old forest road that really looked like another faint trail to me.  Then off that trail and onto Pilot Rock Extension, then onto Pilot Rock Trail – looks familiar – and a short distance to the cars.  I think today’s hike goes to the top ranking for the most trails I’ve walked on in one day.  Only 13.3 miles, but the next day I didn’t leave the couch. 

And who cares if we ate a big lunch?  Mexican food on the way home is always mandatory. 

At home the next day I bought a red Sharpie pen, unfolded the Pisgah Ranger District map and marked this hike and all the other trails I’ve completed there – uh-oh, looks like another hiking challenge has begun.  

NatGeo Map 780, Pisgah Ranger District: Today's route:  Pilot Rock/ Thompson Creek/ unnamed connector trail/MST/Pilot Rock/Laurel Mtn. Connector/Laurel Mtn/unnamed connector trail/Slate Rock/Pilot Cove Loop/old road/Pilot Rock Extension/Pilot Rock back to cars

“Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the wind longs to play with your hair.”  ~Khalil Gibran