Ain't No Sunshine

BRP Trip – 5/17/09 - Day Three

We woke up to rain so we slept in a little bit – still raining after a half hour so nothing to do but hit the road. As we packed up I kept looking out the window at Sharp Top playing peek-a-boo in the clouds, now you see it, now you don’t. Sure, I’ve hiked in the rain plenty of times working on my Smokies 900, but the goal on this trip is to see sights, have fun…stay dry.

Jim’s goal is to complete the BRP, though, and today was scheduled to be his longest – 80 miles. How could I let him bike 80 miles in the rain and not be willing to walk 3 miles? So we took the morning photo of the mighty cyclist lined up with all the motorcycles and Jim rode off into the drizzle. We planned to rendezvous at Milepost 129.6 at around noon.

 A shuttle bus runs from the trailhead parking lot up to near the tip of Sharp Top, but there wasn’t nobody there today ‘cept myself and a pileated woodpecker working on a stump. Even the bus driver was absent. It’s raining, you know. So I had the 1.5-mile trail to myself…sigh…But there was no real rain in the woods, just the trees dripping, and the temperature was just cool enough. Here was another strenuous trail, very eroded. These Virginia folks are loving their trails to death! As I climbed, I heated up a lot and thought about how unbearable this trek would be by midsummer.

The last quarter mile before the summit, the trail was lined with brilliantly blooming spiderwort in red-purples and blue-purples, a great incentive to keep going. I walked into the clouds and my heart sank – all this work and no view today? The top of Sharp Top is composed of house-sized rocks and no trees, and an old stone house that was once used for over- nighters. Now it is apparently thought of as a trash collection point - lots of water bottles on the floor inside.

To add to the fun, the wind was whistling. I stowed my hat away and began to climb the stone steps, and around the first corner I nearly went over the edge. I have never been in such fierce winds! Everything around was white and I could not tell what direction I was facing. Suddenly the white mist was blowing up into my face and rushing over my head and I could see all the way down to the valley. The lodge was in front of me – and then it was gone again. The wind kept blowing clouds up and over me as I climbed higher on the rocks, views there and then gone again. I was a bit afraid to let go to use both hands for the camera, but I tried a few pics and was surprised that they turned out at all, the way I was being blown around. It was a truly exhilerating feeling and I was thrilled that I had made the effort. Remember the scene from the movie, Titanic? “I’m the king of the world!”

I did not stay too long because wind plus wet equals cold. My hike back down was very quick, but I did take the time to fall flat on my butt once. Once I got out of the woods and to my car it was truly raining. I drove down the BRP looking for Jim and he said he was okay, so I continued to the meeting point and read my book until he arrived. (I’ll tell you about the books I read later – great stuff.) Jim ate lunch with me, reported that it was tough going but he was getting through it, and the rain was slowing down to intermittent drizzling, so I decided to go on to my next planned hike on the way to our stopping point for the day.

Smart View Recreation Area is near MP 154, south of Roanoke, with several good leg stretcher trails and a large picnic area. I confess, I did not feel like doing the planned hike, but once I started I really enjoyed it . I checked out the Trail’s Cabin here and the view from its back door out to the mountains – what they called a “right smart view.” The hike was easy-going, about 3 miles, a nice change from the lung buster going up Sharp Top. A snort made me jump as I startled two deer (and vice versa). The trail was routed to follow some enormous trees I could not identify. I really need to learn this stuff…Part of the fun was going through the “fat man squeezes” in the fences.

I met Jim at the hot spot of Tuggle Gap and we checked into the much-anticipated Hotel Floyd, a great hotel in the awesome little town of Floyd, Virginia, home of Floyd Fest and many bluegrass venues. Sad to say, we were here on a Sunday night and there was no music. BUT our hotel room had a flat screen TV, wireless internet and it was the night of the “Survivor” finale! I was in heaven!

 Before “Survivor”, though, we needed food. Jim was burning something like 4,700 calories a day (yes, ladies, I hate him too) and the next meal was always on our minds. We ate family style at the Pine Tavern, sweet tea, fried chicken, ham, all the veggies, mashed potatoes, biscuits, blackberry AND chocolate cobbler for dessert. We were stuffed like the Thanksgiving turkey. We stayed up much too late watching the “Survivor” reunion show (I hate Coach, don’t you?).

 Jim’s Day Three 

Before I start talking about today’s ride let me introduce you to my bike. It is a Specialized Allez Comp with Columbus FoCo steel frame, Shimano 540 wheels, carbon fork and all Ultegra components. I invested $200 in a top of the line Selle Italia Gel Flow saddle about a year ago and it has been well worth it. The only thing unusual about my bike is the steel frame. Most bikes now are aluminum, carbon or titanium. When I was looking to replace my mid 80s vintage Trek a few years ago I came across this Specialized at a decent price for all Ultegra components. I wasn’t looking for a steel frame but it was not much heavier than aluminum and I knew steel has a more supple ride. Carbon and titanium were significantly more expensive at the time so I went with the steel. I have been happy with it. I considered getting some better wheels before the BRP trip but decided to save the dough. I’ll consider upgrading to a carbon frame in the next few years. My body and this bike have become very compatible though so I’ll think hard before any changes. The best thing is my bike has been very reliable and it did not let me down on the trip. 

Now to the ride. I thought this was going to be my toughest day and it was. The plan included 80 miles with a considerable amount of climbing. The BRP dipped into the Roanoke valley. It is about a 2000 ft climb back out in addition to numerous other smaller climbs throughout the day. In addition the weather had turned bad. It rained through the night as a cold front swept in. I delayed leaving by 30 minutes hoping it would let up but it did not. As long as it was not a deluge I was ready to go. I put on just about all of my riding gear including long sleeve base layer, wind vest, raincoat, leg warmers and arm warmers. I pulled out in a moderate rain, chilly temperatures and a stiff wind. I had ridden several times this past winter in similar conditions so I felt I could survive. I purposely made sure I did not wimp out during the messy rides this past winter. On a few Saturday group rides we only had 2 or 3 folks due to the cold and/or wet but I knew I needed the riding and the bad weather practice.  

The views were not spectacular but they were interesting due to the swirling clouds. Most of the ride to Roanoke is either on the ridge top or the side of the mountain so there are plenty of views. The BRP was desolate and that was good and bad. Not much traffic to be concerned about but between the wind, the rain and the lack of people it felt kind of ominous. For the first time I felt a little vulnerable. A guy on a bike is no match for Mother Nature. Speaking of Mother Nature, I did see my first 3 deer of the trip as well as a snapping turtle. The first deer ran along the road side about 25 yards in front of me for about 15 – 20 seconds before darting into the woods. It’s amazing how they mix leaping with running. The turtle was only a few feet into the road. At first I thought I would move him off the road but I had no idea where he was really headed. I decided to let nature take its course and let him continue on his way. I thought about the turtle during the day especially when I found myself pushing a little too hard. 

The ride around Roanoke was not as bad as advertised. Folks talk about the heavy commuter traffic and the “unscenic views” on this stretch of the BRP. It was a rainy Sunday so not much traffic at all. As far as the view, those folks must not have driven around Charlotte much. A bad view on the BRP is way better than all the views on my regular rides. The BRP goes over the Roanoke River on a very tall bridge just outside of Roanoke. There is a hydro electric power plant there. I am a mechanical engineer that has been in the power industry my entire career. I love power plants in addition to biking, the mountains and Smoky Scout. I never pass up a chance to take a picture of a power plant in my travels. 

Simply put, the ride out of Roanoke was hard. It was steep, long and had a few brief down hills that annoy you because you know you will need to regain that elevation again. I met Smoky Scout for lunch at an overlook about half way up the 2000 ft climb. I was tired, wet and hungry. I did not want to linger long and get cold and stiff. About 5 minutes after I left I felt I was in trouble. My legs were like lead. The brief lunch stop had not helped much. I still had 35 miles to Tuggle Gap. I set an intermediate goal of 15 miles. I told myself don’t think about 35 miles just think about 15 miles. Instead of sitting and spinning I stood and used a smaller gear. It worked. I can stand for a long time if I need to. I also kept my theme song in mind. I sang out loud and in my head the phrase “Come on up for the rising, come on up and put your hand in mine” over and over. 

The road finally leveled out somewhat and the rain fully quit. My lunch kicked in, raising my blood sugar and lifting my spirits. I wasn’t kickin’ butt on the few flat spots but I went past my 15-mile intermediate goal without stopping because I felt much better. I did finally take a break somewhere to take a few pictures of some nice houses and a few scenic spots. The terrain had changed from mountains to rolling hills and farmland. I monitored my effort level by feel and my heart rate monitor. Once more…..it’s all about energy management on long rides. Oh yeah, I did do a GU on that break. I really think they help as long you have not totally bonked. 

On the way into Tuggle Gap the sun finally came out although the temperature was dropping. The terrain was relatively easy for a bit. I stopped at the Floyd Dry Goods store which looked interesting but was closed. The final 3 – 4 miles into Tuggle Gap included an 830 ft climb but my GU had kicked in and I was tired but fine. All in all I rate this as the toughest ride I have ever done. There have been longer ones and certainly faster paced ones but this was long, in the mountains, in bad weather and solo.  

Smoky Scout met me at the Tuggle Gap Restaurant and gas station with a Mountain Dew in hand. It was a quick 6-mile drive to Floyd VA. Floyd is a cool little town. It is a Mecca for bluegrass (which I also happen to love) as well as mountain arts and crafts. We checked in at the Hotel Floyd (a great place by the way). We found the perfect spot to eat…the Pine Tavern….family style, all you can eat, great country food. It’s not a replica of a 1940’s roadhouse it is a 1940’s roadhouse. I loved it. It was Sunday evening so there was no bluegrass to be found but I was quite tired. Back at the room I cleaned and lubed my bike and got in bed to watch the Survivor finale with Smoky. Tomorrow was another 80-mile day and I did not have much time to recover. 

Stats for day: 

Mile marker start: 85.6 
Mile marker finish: 165.3 
Total day miles: 82.1 
Climbing for day: 5000 ft 
Avg speed: 13.4 mph 
Max speed: 36.3 mph

 The best rides are the ones where you bite off much more than you can chew--and live through it.  ~Doug Bradbury

(Finally) Smoky Scout Sees a Snake

BRP Trip – 5/16/09 - Day Two

Beginning at MP 45.7, Jim had a little trouble getting oriented onto the road, but was finally on his way for Day Two. My first stop today was the Visitor Center at the James River Water Gap where the BRP crosses the mighty James. The VC was closed – very disappointing, since it was a Saturday in mid-May – but both of my hiking guides had info on the Trail of Trees, so I took a stroll along the half-mile loop. I am responsible for the homelessness of thousands of spiders, as I was the first person on this trail today and had to constantly remove spiderwebs from my face. The Trail of Trees is a real treat, cool views right beside the river and dozens of tree identification signs. I’m not too well versed in trees so it was fun to learn something new. I might be able to distinguish an American bladdernut from a mockernut hickory now, but don’t even ask me about the royal paulownia.

In this photo you can see the BRP as it crosses the James and the footbridge suspended underneath it. There is another interpretive trail that crosses here to see the Battery Creek Lock, built in 1848. I didn’t take time for this one, but all in all I’d say the James River Water Gap VC is a great stop for families with kids.

My reason for excitement today was a 4.4-mile out-and-back hike on the AT beginning where we dropped off the thru-hikers last night, about four miles off of the BRP on Highway 501 West. This section begins on a footbridge across the James River completed in 2000 and dedicated to William T. Foot. (Click on the photo of the dedication sign to read the whole story.) This section is a re-route to follow Matts Creek and the James. What an exhilerating way to start an AT section hike!

On the other side there are signs designating no camping for the first mile (basically as the trail paralleled the James) and right there was a campsite with a little trash in it. My guess is that locals are responsible for this, because after a mile there were a couple of primitive sites recently used, hopefully by conscientious thru-hikers. I cleaned out this fire ring on my way back to my car. Brownie points! Rhodies were blooming all along the way so I added photos to my collection.

The walk beside the James River was awesome. There were tulip tree blooms everywhere. As the trail turned left to walk up Matts Creek, camping was allowed, as evidenced by the sign and the creative hikers’ cairn on top of it. I noticed a real difference here from the Smokies creeks. The water in the Smokies has a greenish caste to it, I’m sure for some biological reason, while the water in Matts Creek had a lighter, tan color, almost sandy. Even the deep pools seemed brown as opposed to the green of the Smokies. And as I was making these observa- tions, I prepared to cross a side seep and…look closely...I nearly stepped on this fellow. Imagine, I hiked 1,075 miles in the Smokies and never saw a snake, and he was here on the AT in Virginia the whole time! He was about 18 inches long and did not slink away, just posed for photos. I finally got tired of watching him and walked on.

 I soon arrived at Matts Creek Shelter, a dismal place by Smokies standards. My experience with shelters is limited to the Smokies, so now I know that they are not the norm (yes, some are even nicer, but most are smaller). I took a lunch break and was nearly ready to turn back when a couple of northbound section hikers rolled in, self-described “young seniors.” After a short chat, I retraced my steps, crossed that awesome bridge one more time and headed back to the BRP.

 My next stop was the Thunder Ridge Overlook , which was fantastic. I turned onto what I thought was the .2-mile loop around the ridge and immediately became entranced by the sea of mayapple and nearly-spent trilliums at mid-calf height as far as I could see. After a few minutes of walking I realized that I was going straight, not in a loop, and there were those familiar-looking white rectangle blazes – well, here I was on another AT section. I backtracked to the car and turned south again.

I passed Jim on my way to my next hike at Fallingwater Cascades. This is a nice little 1.6-mile loop in the Peaks of Otter Recreation Area. Since I had an idea of where Jim was, I had time for this hike. The hike was moderate to strenuous (takes some effort to get to a waterfall) and the cascades reminded me of the unnamed waterfall along Meigs Creek Trail in the Smokies.

On the way to the waterfall I got behind a family that included Grandma and Grandpa. Grandma was doing great, but Grandpa seemed frail and unsteady on his feet, yet he was last in line, so I followed him for a while since his family seemed to be paying no attention. Eventually I passed them, though, or I would be there still...

From here I drove the short distance to the Peaks of Otter Lodge, our home for the night, and found that Jim had passed me and was now in a rocking chair outside the main office, chugging a soda and talking with other guests. Jim is no longer self-conscious in those tight black cycling shorts! It was barely 1:00 p.m., but we were allowed to check in and we quickly moved our stuff inside, then took snacks and sodas out onto our little balcony to unwind.

A little background: Peaks of Otter Recreation Area is a great area to visit. It’s a valley between two peaks (duh) called Sharp Top and Flat Top. There are several theories of the origin of the name – feel free to make one up on your own. (Hint: it’s close to the Otter River). Peaks of Otter Lodge is one of four concessionaire-operated accommodations on the BRP, open year-round, and very popular. We were on a waiting list for several weeks to get a room. The rooms are simple (no TV, no internet, no cell phone service) and their dining room is very, very good. There are camping facilities open May through October and other amenities. Check it out here and here. One bit of advice: it is extremely popular with motorcyclists, so if that’s not your thing, be aware. On our overnight stay, we were the only car parked in front of our building – the rest were motorcycles. They were a large group and they partied out in the breezeway until at least 2:00 a.m., not obnoxious but audible. We just turned on the air conditioner, put in the earplugs and snoozed away.

 Back to the story: We had the afternoon to goof off and the weather was beautiful, but upon looking at Sharp Top from our balcony (see photo right) we decided against hiking it that day. I would give it a run the next morning after Jim took off on his bike. We walked to the camp store and VC (great exhibits) and walked the little trail around Abbot Lake. (Here is a photo of Flat Top with the Lodge in front of it). Then I brought my little traveling blanket outside, spread it under the tree by the lake, and face-planted for a nap. When was the last time you just laid on a blanket outside and went to sleep? It needs to be a more regular occurrence.

A little blonde-haired boy (appeared to be about 3 years old but we learned that he is 5) walked up and laid his face beside Jim’s on the blanket. We saw a woman in the distance and asked him if that was his mom, but he did not reply, and the woman walked off in another direction. After a couple more questions with no response, a man jogged up and explained that his son had “lost his words” after an MMR vaccination at age 2 and that they had worked hard to get him to the level of sociability that he currently displayed. As the dad gave us a little more information than we were looking for, Andrew put his nose to mine, mimicked head movements with me, and stared with great intensity as if he were a mind-reader – but no words. After a few minutes his interest waned and he continued on around the lake’s path, with his dad following and waving cheerfully. The word autism was not mentioned, but I’ve read a bit about vaccinations as a possible connection to it and will look into it some more.

After a wonderful meal in the Lodge’s restaurant, we went back to our room to prepare for the next day. The weather forecast was not looking good and Jim had an 80-mile ride planned. We sketched out a plan for me to meet him halfway for lunch and water resupply. As part of my nightly routine now I wrote out two copies of my day’s plan, the hikes and the mileposts where the trailheads were, and gave one to Jim and put one in the front seat of the car. Then we re-packed as much as we could and snoozed.

Jim’s Day Two –  

A little bit more about day 1 first. Smoky Scout and I had a really great time in Lexington after my ride. It’s a nice small town with a vibrant main street. Going back to Big Island brought back a flood of memories. Truthfully while I lived and worked there as a co-op student I was still more of a city slicker. I did not appreciate being in such a beautiful location. My mindset has changed a lot in 30 years. Smoky was a great sport for eating at the little restaurant. Like many folks I enjoy a restaurant with a lot of local color. I have eaten in many hole-in-the-wall type places including little grills in out of the way gas stations and country grocery stores. The people are down to earth and the food is much better than you would expect (most of the time). The catfish here was very good. The only regret I had for the day was not seeing the south’s largest rattlesnake.  

Day 2 dawned nice and clear with just a few wispy clouds floating around the mountains as I pulled out of the Buena Vista Overlook. The ride started with over 10 miles of downhill to the James River at elevation 650 ft or so. I stopped at Otter Lake to take a few pictures. Sometimes I have been putting my bike in the picture to add some sense of perspective to the view but here I met a father and his young son. They were happy to take my picture and I returned the favor. All (and I mean all) of the people I met on the trip were very friendly. The fact that I was riding a bike was a good conversation starter. 

After a brief visit to the James River Visitor Center (very brief because it was not open yet) I started one of the famous climbs on the BRP. You go from the lowest point on the BRP (elev 650 ft) to the highest in VA atop Apple Orchard Mountain (elev 3950 ft). About a 3300 ft climb in a little under 14 miles. I felt pretty good about it. For the past 6 months I had been not just riding but “training”…..lots of intervals on the trainer in the garage at night and hanging with the fast group (or trying to on some days) during group rides. Still my plan was to bust the climb up into a few segments (3 or 4) and take a quick break after each one. Shortly after I started the climb I saw another rider in the distance. I thought it sure would be good to have some company so I upped my pace a little and caught up with him in about 10 – 15 minutes. Any longer than that and I was going to have to back off. Like I said before, it’s all about energy management. I did not want to empty my tank. 

The rider was a nice guy, Mark Becht, and he does this climb 3 times a week. He is a strong rider…..stays at a steady pace in the middle ring all the way to the top. He graciously accepted my company. We talked on the way up and this took my mind off the climb. I simply followed his pace of about 8 – 9 mph (me in the small chain ring as opposed to him in the middle). I like to alternate sitting and standing during long climbs and that helped also. At about 10 miles into the climb I needed a break and took a quick one while Mark forged ahead. I rejoined him at an overlook where he was waiting just a little below the summit. We rode to the summit together. My plan of 3 or 4 segments was not needed which boosted my confidence a little. I got a quick picture at the summit sign and then went on a little side trip and Mark headed back down to the James River. 

There is a radar installation atop the true summit of Apple Orchard Mountain. The road itself is not quite at the true summit. There is a side road off the BRP that leads to the radar site. It has “KEEP OUT” signs and gates and I heard that it was quite a bit steeper than the BRP. I tried it anyway. Yes, it was steep and covered with fine loose gravel that made for sketchy traction on such a steep climb but it was less than a mile long. I made it and quickly snapped a picture to prove it and headed back down before I got in trouble. Actually I think hikers head by here often so it is probably not a big deal. 

Before I headed down to the Peaks of Otter Lodge it was interesting to note that the leaves were just coming out up here as opposed to the valley where they were fully out. 

The ride was either downhill or close to level from here to the Peaks of Otter Lodge. I got there a little ahead of Smoky Scout. It felt great resting in a rocking chair in the shade of the front porch until she arrived. We quickly checked in and headed to our room that had a great back porch with a perfect view of Sharp Top. I had my customary post ride Mountain Dew (diet) and enjoyed the rest of the day with a walk on the grounds and a great meal.

Stats for day:

Mile marker start: 45.7 
Mile marker finish: 85.6
 Total day miles: 43.0 
Total day climbing: 3750 
ft Avg speed: 12.3 mph 
Max speed: 36.3 mph  

I thought of that while riding my bicycle. ~ Albert Einstein on the theory of relativity

Come On Up For The Rising

5/15/09 – BRP Trip – Day One

Our first day of biking and hiking on the Blue Ridge Parkway dawned with a mist obscuring the mountains. We had spent the night in a Days Inn in Waynesboro, listened to the rain, packed and repacked gear for the big day. As we drove towards Milepost Zero, we listened to Springsteen singing “The Rising,” Jim’s theme song for his big adventure. Sure enough, we popped out above the clouds and there was that big ol’ Blue Ridge Parkway sign. Jim checked his gear, posed for the all-important inaugural photo, and he was off. He’ll tell you about his first day at the end of this post.

In preparation for our trip Jim made a spreadsheet detailing his biking plans, distance, mile markers to begin and end each day, where to find water, notable side stops (he is an engineer, after all.) Using his start and end points, I sketched out my hike plans according to how many hours Jim would be on the bike. For example, I calculated that his 45-mile, 5-hour ride would give me time for up to 5 miles of hiking, plus driving and visiting occasional overlooks or visitor centers, and I would arrive at the pick-up point with an hour to spare just in case. Using the Blue Ridge Parkway’s “Trip Planner” publication (includes easy-to-read trail maps of the major areas of interest) and Randy Johnson’s “Hiking the Blue Ridge Parkway,” I narrowed the many choices down to “destination” points such as great views, waterfalls, etc. No longer trying to hike every trail, just the fun stuff!

My first hike was at Humpback Rocks Recreation Area, a place I had visited several times as a teenager with my aunt and uncle and cousins. I parked at the picnic area at MP 8 and began my 4.4-mile loop. Right off the bat I was huffing and puffing (how long since I’ve hiked? 4 weeks?) up this tough climb, 700 feet elevation gain in one mile to Humpback Rocks. For a Smokies comparison, this trail and destination is similar to hiking up to Chimney Tops. However, the trail was a little fuzzy, intermittent blue blazes, at least one trail sign missing (just the post there), passing several side trails that the guide book told me to ignore, and I really missed my reliable Smokies maps and trail signs. There were no other hikers along the way to verify the path, but a few of these neon orange lizards (red efts) helped light the way.

Like Chimney Tops, the payoff was fantastic, miles-long views and that beautiful spring green carpet over the mountains. I marveled at the crispness of the day and the inspired graffiti on some of the rocks, listening to four black crows arguing with each other over who saw me first. Then I backtracked a short distance to a signpost for the Appalachian Trail to continue on my counterclockwise loop. That old AT goosebump feeling persisted even here in Virginia and I bounced along the trail, passing several large clumps of yellow lady’s slipper and walking through an area thick with wild flame azalea in many shades of pink – absolutely stunning. Eventually the AT crossed an old road bed (unmaintained but very visible) and I turned left on it to complete my loop. This is the Old Howardsville Turnpike, a Colonial trace built between 1846 and 1851. More history hiking fun like the Smokies!

 A little unsure of timing here on our first day, I got back to the car and began my drive down the BRP. I committed the sin of driving through a few overlooks without stopping for photos, but I knew that Jim would be taking lots of them. One worthwhile stop is Raven Roost Overlook because of this awesome tree. As an example of how quickly things change in the mountains, I passed by 20-Minute Cliff Overlook because it was totally fogged in, but Jim has a great photo from there. I stopped at Yankee Horse Ridge for the easy leg-stretcher walk along a reconstructed railroad section on a grade used by the Irish Creek Railway for logging. Past the rail section is Wigwam Falls, a lovely cascade.

Cruising along the BRP I passed many cyclists, including two tandem bikes moving oh-so-slowly up a steep section. That takes monumental cooperation! I met Jim at our prearranged milepost – he was tired but exhilarated - and we drove to our second hotel, Days Inn in Lexington, VA, home of Washington & Lee University and Virginia Military Institute (VMI) and – guess what – graduation weekend! We unpacked, showered, and drove into downtown Lexington for an hour or two of exploring. Downtown Lexington is very picturesque and well preserved and we passed many families with cadets in uniform. We stopped by Stonewall Jackson’s home but didn’t want to cough up the fee for the last tour of the day. We also were not willing to pay to see the advertised legendary rattlesnake, figuring that the sign alone was good enough for local color.

We were hungry, but Jim had one more goal for the day: we had to visit the paper mill where he had a co-op job while attending Virginia Tech, and that meant a road trip to Big Island, VA. I’ll let Jim give you background on Big Island, but a funny thing happened on the way…

We took a wrong turn on the country roads and almost immediately realized our mistake. We pulled into a convenience store to turn around and noticed several hitchhikers scattered along the road in the direction we needed to go – and they were wearing loaded backpacks. We realized that the AT was just a few miles away and this was our opportunity to be trail angels for some thru-hikers. We picked up three young women who each started out solo on March 15 (I think), named Wind Up, Wags and Gangsta. (Wags and Gangsta are keeping journals of their hikes on Trail Journals.) We dropped them at the trailhead to continue their journey…and discovered that this was where my own hike for tomorrow would begin. Fate!

On we went to Big Island for the three-minute tour and we stopped at River’s Edge Café for dinner because they had a catfish special. Lo and behold, there were two tandem bikes out front! They were a mom and dad and son and daughter-in-law biking a large section of the Parkway. We loaded up on fish and coleslaw and chose a motto of “eat local, eat cheap, tip big” for the rest of the trip. On the country roads going back at the hotel we passed yet another roadside oddity – the coffee pot house. Before passing out for the night, we reviewed the day, compared notes, packed and repacked, and thanked God for a glorious beginning.  

Jim’s Day One: 

I love cycling. I love the mountains. After a few 15 – 20 mile rides in mountains over the past two or three years I realized that I loved cycling in the mountains and wanted to do it more often. The extended climbing added another dimension that I did not experience in the flat lands of Charlotte. Plus the views were fantastic. About 18 months ago I set a personal goal (known only to me at that time) of riding the entire Blue Ridge Parkway, all 470 miles, in one continuous journey. I am an average recreational cyclist….a Saturday morning group ride, a Sunday afternoon solo ride and usually 2 evening rides during the week. About 75 – 100 miles a week and an average speed of 18 mph or so. When I thought about it this seemed like an ambitious goal for someone who probably had no more than 50 - 75 miles total in the mountains. I did not want this to become a pipe dream though. Time keeps on ticking. A few months later I mentioned it to Smoky Scout, then some riding buddies, then some folks at work and soon I was adrift on the proverbial “burning platform”. I could not back out without losing face. This is what I needed. 

For the past year I rode with this goal in mind. I upped my weekly mileage when I could during the summer and fall and most importantly continued to ride through the winter….on the bike on the weekends and on the trainer in the garage three nights a week. The trainer is a great conditioning and torture device. 

Now the day had finally come. Put up or shut up. All the training, planning and talking had come to a head. It was May 15 and it was time to get started. It rained the night before but the clouds were lifting. As we drove to the BRP entrance I popped Springsteen’s “The Rising” into the CD player. This had been my “motivational music” over the past year or so. It tells the story of a NYC fireman climbing the stairs of the World Trade Center on 9/11. I could relate to it in many ways….my dad was a Jersey City fireman, I watched the WTC being built from my bedroom window as a kid, I am a Virginia Tech grad so 4/16 hit me similar to 9/11 and the mindless physical exertion of climbing the mountains on a bike seemed similar to the fireman in the song climbing the stairs. Of course the fireman was performing a valiant task and risking his life……..I am simply riding a bike. But I would always think about all the folks affected by 9/11 and 4/16 and say a prayer for them. 

Anyway………after the customary start picture at the BRP entrance sign I clicked in and was off. I felt more nervous than I thought I would and pushed too hard up the first hill but found my rhythm on the next. It was an 1100 ft climb and I locked in on a steady 9 mph pace or so. By the way I have a triple chainring and I don’t hesitate to use it in the mountains. I stopped very briefly at many of the overlooks to snap a picture of the mist floating around the mountains. I also saw a neat Christmas tree farm in the middle of nowhere. Mainly I just kept riding thinking how cool this is to finally be on the BRP. 

I planned this to be a relatively easy day to get acclimated and it worked out. I felt better at the end of the ride than I did in the beginning. I realized that not much of the BRP is flat and I needed to manage my energy….a comfortable steady pace up the climbs, glide on the downhills and stay under my usual pace on the flats. Mission accomplished. 

Stats for the day:  

Mile marker start: 0.0 
Mile marker finish: 45.7 
Total day miles: 47.3 
Avg speed: 13.7 mph 
Max speed: 36.0  

Get a bicycle. You will certainly not regret it, if you live. ~Mark Twain

Too Pooped To Post - Stay Tuned

May 20 -

Jim and I are at the end of Day 6 of our Blue Ridge Parkway trip, sitting and watching the sunset from the Switzerland Inn at Little Switzerland, NC. We have found that at the end of each day, after eating and preparing for the next day's adventures (and the occasional hot tubbing), we are too wiped out to do blog posts. The best we can do is write really good notes before we fall asleep. A short summary: Jim has ridden 334 miles and I have done 12 hikes. We had rain for part of the day Sunday, otherwise the weather has been outstanding. Eventually we will head for home.

Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~Albert Einstein

It's Blue Ridge Parkway Time

Thursday, May 14 -

Today Jim and I are heading for Waynesboro, VA in preparation for Jim's epic Blue Ridge Parkway bike ride. Tomorrow morning he will begin at Mile 0 at Rockfish Gap, VA - his destination is the end of the Parkway in Cherokee, NC, 469 miles away. My job is to drop Jim off at his beginning point each morning and pick him up each afternoon and offer words of encouragement. In between those times, I will be doing short hikes originating from the Parkway. Choosing hikes is challenging as there are many, many interesting places, and because of time my hikes will be short, 5 to 8 miles. Weather is always a factor, especially for a cyclist, so we will stay flexible. If it's not safe for Jim to ride, then we'll go find a winery! At the end of the day we both hope to do a short blog recap, so check back with us.

In total we will be biking/hiking for 9 days, passing through places like Peaks of Otter, Floyd, Doughton Park, Blowing Rock, Little Switzerland, Pisgah National Forest, Waynesville. I can't wait to see what Tuggle Gap looks like!

For a preview, here's Jim getting ready to ride on the BRP near Waynesville in spring 2008. Yes, those are monkeys on his cycling jersey.

And here's my view on the Parkway

that same day. Jim had to ride up through the

clouds and then pop up into blue skies.

Cycling is like church. Many attend, but few understand.  ~Jim Burlant

It's Official

"It's a Major Award!"

I received my certificate in the mail on Saturday from the Great Smoky Mountains 900 Miler Club. I am Member No. 254 of completers of the Smokies 900 Challenge, having hiked every currently maintained trail in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Do I get extra points for also hiking that Ollie Cove Trail?

Of course, you don't have to join the Smokies 900 Club to claim being a 900-miler, but by paying your $15 you get to show all your friends that your name is on the website membership list, plus you get all this other great stuff.

They actually sent me two certificates, one with just my name and one with my name plus "Smoky Scout" as I requested.

Best of all, I got this great patch. In Girl Scouts we love our patches!

What Keeps Me Moving On

Hiking the Smokies 900 is completed but my fundraising goals are not. I set an astronomically high bar of raising $20,000 for outdoor programs for Girl Scouts in North Carolina. Why so high? It has been my observation that often females sell themselves short, think minimally and dream small when setting goals. I wanted to send a message to girls and to the rest of the world that I believe they are so important that really no dream is too big for them.

So I set a goal of $20,000 and watched the financial crisis grow and the country's economy go down, down, down. But have you all noticed what I have noticed? People are still giving to charities. Hearts are still open to the needs of others. I will continue to be committed to outdoor programs for girls. Outdoor experiences provide a building block that significantly shapes the future adult as a good steward, an advocate and a protector of the natural world. A great outdoor experience can set a pattern of physical fitness and mental health for a lifetime. Just one week of summer camp has an indelible impact. Do you remember your summer camp experience?

As of this writing, contributions are about $3,900. If you have been following this blog and waiting to see if I would cross the finish line - I did! Please consider making a contribution today. If you made a contribution early on, it's okay to make another one! In the coming months I will report on how the funds are being used. Come on, don't just read about it - be a part of it! Below is an excerpt from an article in LEADER Magazine, April 1968, that I and other Girl Scout volunteers have heard probably hundreds of times and which continues to chill and inspire me:  

WHAT IS A GIRL? She is the person who is going to carry on what you have started in this world. She is going to sit where you are sitting and, when you are gone, attend to those things which you think are so important... She is going to have a voice in your churches, your schools, your Girl Scout activities, universities and corporations. She is going to be in charge of your woods and your forests and your natural resources. How she pursues a full and rewarding life depends on the direction she is learning now...All your work is going to be judged, praised and condemned by her. Her future is in your hands, but your reputation and your future are also in her hands. So...it is well to pay her some attention and give her some of your time.