Day 1 - Lago de Braies to Rifugio Fodara Vedla
This morning’s pre-hike jitters on a scale of 1 to 10: about 15. It’s the same for every multi-day hike I’ve ever endeavored…and they all turned out okay, so this must be a good sign.
After loading up on the generous hotel breakfast, Jim and I hurried to the bus stop for our final ride to the Alta Via 1 starting point. At 7:30 a.m., we were the first people there (no tickets, first come, first served). Local Bus 442 filled up and we were on our way.
Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee in German) is an enchanting, picture-postcard destination. There’s a fancy resort hotel and crystal clear reflections in the serene alpine lake, which of course is encircled by a meandering 2.5-mile trail. August is holiday month in Europe and the resort was quite busy. Oh, look, they’re still serving brunch - could we just hang out here?
The first signpost is a reminder that the Alta Via 1 is a route through the Dolomites on existing trails. Red-and-white markings are common for many routes in Europe and the key is the trail number. Jim and I started our trek on #1 and our first waypoint was Rifugio Biella, a 3-hour hike (notice no distances listed). I was pretty sure this bit was gonna be more than 3 hours.
headed towards the mountains.
Our friends Chris and Andy hiked the AV1 a few weeks earlier and told us about their adventure. Chris’s description of this “brutal” first day had me quite worried. They had a later morning start, nearly 3,000 feet of elevation gain in just 3.5km, a hot day above tree line, each factor adding to the difficulty. With all this in mind, I lowered my expectations to a long hard slog at 1mph or less.
Fortunately, Jim and I had an earlier start (more shade) and 37 degrees F, which made a world of difference. Still, the hike up to the pass Forcella Sora Forno was intense. I stuck to my 1mph plan, stopping often to look back, take photos, breathe and marvel. We’re really here!
of talus/scree/rock pounded by time
Grande Apostolo dominates the scene
As we climbed higher, the grade got steeper. Above the tree line, talus and scree (I’ll call it rubble) was crazy slippery, so I was extra careful. I mean, I was s-l-o-w! Jim was great about staying within sight.
Don’t look down!
There was a brief unexpected climb beyond the pass (I hate when that happens) but I kept my turtle pace and pushed on. The reward was the Bovine Welcome Committee.
Around the back side, looking down at Grande Apostolo’s green slope and our zigzag up through the valley
I had tried to book accommodations here to make our first day short, but without success. Having met our first big challenge (in 3.75 hours, not bad after all), it was time for a break. We went inside the rifugio looking for water. A sign was posted “nonpotable water” (there was bottled water for sale) but the toilets were not working because no water – ugh! Glad we weren’t staying here after all. Lesson: don’t be shy about peeing behind a rock.
We were carrying snacks, as always, but the idea of a meat/cheese sandwich appealed to Jim. I had other ideas. How about strudel with ice cream and a Fanta Orange?
the southeast face of Croda del Beco
you want to go. Our next waypoint on 6A is Rifugio Sennes, 3km/40 minutes
that border each other
More modern than Biella – the beer was flowing and so were the toilets! Hikers and mountain bikers were scattered everywhere, people lying in the grass, filling every seat at the outdoor bar area, sharing beers and stories and enjoying the exceptionally fine weather. I didn’t begrudge them the frat party atmosphere. (I had also tried to book accommodations here, but they were full.) Jim and I stopped to use the toilets and look over our maps, then moved on.
The last leg of our first day was another 3km to Rifugio Fodara Vedla. Leaving Sennes, we crossed the main road in the photo above and took Route 7, a less-traveled trail descending down through the forest to a small, secluded valley.
Rifugio Fodara VedlaFodara Vedla has an adults/family resort vibe, pricey but our only choice after striking out with the two rifugios we had passed. With its inviting outdoor deck, Tyrolean décor, huge dining room and bar, we were impressed and ready for some comfort.
from our balcony. Heaven!
After dropping our gear, we went back outside to enjoy the feeling of NOT hiking. Jim had a beer and, since ciders are scarce, my new standard celebratory beverage is an Aperol spritz. Such an immense feeling of relief/release – the anticipation of the first day is over and we are doing this!
Next, showers and clean clothes were in order before dinner at 7pm. While Jim was getting ready, I stepped onto our balcony. I noticed we shared the balcony with the adjacent room and its door was open. Suddenly, a man stepped out onto the deck in his underwear! As we exchanged hellos and what-a-nice-day-it-is, his grown son joined us, wearing boxer shorts. Next, another adult son emerged (fully clothed) to join the conversation. A lovely family from Germany, riding mountain bikes in the Dolomites for 5 days. One of the charms of multi-day adventuring is encounters with fellow travelers (clothed or not…)
Fodara Vedla, our balcony at top rightDistance hiked: 8 miles/13km Elevation gain: 3,060 ft
"The difference between try
and triumph is a little umph."
Author Unknown
