MST: Cascades Recreation Area to Benge Gap

Mountains-to-Sea Trail:  Great Day Hikes #11

Cascades Recreation Area to Benge Gap – 7/2/23 – 8.5 miles RT

The Mountains-to-Sea Trail across North Carolina is close to my heart. Over nearly two years, 2009-2011, I hiked the trail in sections from the western terminus atop Kuwohi in the Great Smoky Mountains at the NC/TN state line to the eastern terminus atop the sand dunes at Jockey’s Ridge State Park at NC’s Outer Banks – more than 1,000 miles! Some days I walked with others, some days on my own, and I biked some of the eastern sections. Every mile was an adventure.

The MST can be accessed from many points across the state for a challenging mountain hike, a relaxing half-day walk in the woods or an easy small-town stroll. A book that I highly recommend, Great Day Hikes On North Carolina’s Mountains-to-Sea Trail, highlights 40 adventures across the state. The trail continues to change and grow since I completed it in 2011, and currently it spans 1,175 miles. Great Day Hikes is my inspiration to get out and see what it’s like today.

To escape the broiling heat of a July day in the Carolina Piedmont, Jim and I headed to a higher altitude section of the MST along the Blue Ridge Parkway near Boone, NC – Hike #11. Within the boundary of E.B. Jeffress Park, we hiked from the Cascades Recreation Area eastbound to Benge Gap and back again. (If you’re with friends and two cars, this is a nice shuttle hike.) 

Know before you go: check the BRP website for seasonal or construction closures. 

Our hike started from the north end of the Cascades Recreation Picnic Area on a loop trail. The MST goes left and the Cascades Trail goes right to access the waterfall. Jim and I followed the right fork to check out the waterfall, knowing that we would hike the MST portion of the loop on our return.

Falls Creek

A steep set of steps leads from the top of the Cascades Waterfall down to a rock wall and landing viewpoint of the falls. The steps are very close to the waterfall as it descends. Beyond the landing, the trail was blocked off and we could see severe erosion. I wonder if the trail will ever be rehabbed or if it is better to remain closed. It’s so close to the waterfall, it seems a strong temptation to get dangerously close.

Top of Cascades Waterfall

A rock wall and landing where trail access ends, but the waterfall keeps tumbling out of sight

We walked back up the steps to the loop trail, and at the sign indicating the return to
the parking lot Jim and I turned right onto the MST

The white circle blazes of the MST indicate the path all the way across North Carolina

This Fowler’s Toad was well camouflaged until I stepped too close.
I jumped higher than he did!

The Mountains-to-Sea Trail follows the Blue Ridge Parkway, crossing the roadway back and forth, sharing its narrow corridor of protected federal land as it passes farms and fields in this area northeast of Boone. Fences and gates are part of the rural scene. Sometimes a sharp eye will discern a hunter's deer stand.

A couple of miles along our route, we popped out into a pasture and followed the well-trodden path downhill, where we walked a short way on the road and turned back into the woods.

Crossing another field, Jim said, “Hey, why don’t you pose with this tractor?”

It’s a two-toad day!

Before we knew it, we’d reached the intersection of country roads called Benge Gap. We turned around and retraced our steps, staying on the MST portion of the Cascades loop trail as it followed Falls Creek. This little loop to the waterfall and back is a great family hike for the summertime, splashing in the creek and looking for toads.

Our reward after an 8.5-mile ramble: lunch with adult beverages in downtown Wilkesboro, NC. If you haven’t taken the backroads to this little country town, you should.

“In Native American cultures, the American toad is considered a symbol of transformation and adaptability due to their dual nature of living both in water and on land.”
~Robert Leonard

Pisgah 400: Graveyard Fields

Pisgah 400: Graveyard Fields Ramble - 7/13/23 - 4 Miles

Yellowstone Prong at Graveyard Fields

Carol and I are feeling lucky on the last morning of our trip: three blue sky days in a row in the Shining Rock Wilderness area of Pisgah National Forest. How about let’s tiptoe over to Graveyard Fields before the masses arrive?

Graveyard Fields is part of Pisgah National Forest, adjacent to (but not part of) Shining Rock Wilderness. It is one of the most well-known, much-loved and over-used areas along the Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina. Southwest of Asheville, with direct accessibility from an overlook at Milepost 418.8 that includes a large parking area and restrooms, it’s just about impossible to drive past without stopping out of curiosity – what is everyone looking at?

Waterfalls are what the casual Blue Ridge Parkway visitor is eager to see. Yellowstone Prong flows through the valley of Graveyard Fields, creating multi-tiered cascades and waterfalls along the way. (A “prong” means a branch of a stream or river.) Add in changing leaf color in autumn and you’ve got good reason for the traffic jam at MP 418.8. And just a short hike will get you to the edge of the flow.

I avoid Graveyard Fields on weekends and most weekday afternoons, but an early weekday morning is just right for a ramble.

Note: Camping is not allowed at Graveyard Fields, so hike on over to Shining Rock to enjoy an overnight experience.

With limited time today before our drive back to Charlotte, Carol and I opted for a short hike on the Graveyard Fields Loop Trail counterclockwise and the spur trails to Second Falls and Upper Falls, about 4 miles total.

Enough preamble! Let’s go hiking.

From the parking lot, a five-minute walk on a paved path and wooden stairs takes you down
 to Yellowstone Prong

Dramatic double bridges crossing the river

On closer inspection, the bridges are a little crookedy

Looking downstream at Yellowstone Prong from the bridge

Descending more steps towards Second Falls

Carol’s view of Second Falls as I wobbled on the boulders to get a closer look

Backtracking up the stairs, where trails continue east towards Yellowstone Falls or west towards Upper Falls. We stayed counterclockwise on the Loop Trail heading west.

A long section of boardwalk - thank you, trail builders!

Trail erosion

A couple of easy rock hops

Leaving the Loop Trail for the side trail to Upper Falls

Upper Falls is a narrow, long slide that was underwhelming after seeing Second Falls, but not a surprise considering it was the middle of summer. Carol and I sat for a snack break and a peaceful moment before we heard folks approaching on the trail.

We backtracked to the Loop Trail and continued counterclockwise towards the parking lot, appreciating summer flowers up close.

Galax blooms

Yellow bush honeysuckle

Carol and a carpet of mountain laurel blossoms

Our Pisgah National Forest escape could not have been better, the synergy of beautiful mountains, flawless weather and great hiking buddies. What’s next?

Looking Glass Rock from the Blue Ridge Parkway

“Never know when you’re making a memory;

they will wish they was here together again someday.”

~ Rickie Lee Jones

Pisgah 400: Art Loeb Trail & Cold Mountain

Pisgah 400: Art Loeb Trail & Cold Mountain – 7/12/23 – 11.4 miles

After a comfy/chilly night’s rest (54 degrees) at Mount Pisgah Campground, Carol and I woke up to another blue sky day, looking forward to hiking to a famous summit: Cold Mountain.

Heard of it?

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain that inspired the 1997 book by Charles Frazier (am I dating myself here?)

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain that every Boy Scout at Camp Daniel Boone has tackled on an 11-mile round trip hike to the summit.

Yes, it’s the Cold Mountain (elevation 6,030 feet) that is part of the South Beyond 6000 Summit Challenge (SB6K).  

Raising the awesomeness factor of today’s hike is the Art Loeb Trail, a challenging route traversing ridgelines of Shining Rock Wilderness and high points of Pisgah National Forest. Camp Daniel Boone is at the northern terminus of the Art Loeb Trail. The southern terminus is 30.1 miles away at Davidson River Campground in Pisgah National Forest.

I’ve hiked all of the Art Loeb Trail except the westernmost four miles starting from the camp. I summitted Cold Mountain in 2009 as part of the SB6K Challenge (that’s 14 years ago, friends). Our trek on that day was a rigorous 18 miles out-and-back from…well, you can read all about it here.

Today’s adventure is all new for Carol, so let’s go!

It’s one heck of a drive from Mount Pisgah Campground to Camp Daniel Boone, and I was taken aback when it appeared we would drive through the middle of the camp while the morning flag ceremony was being conducted. Boy Scouts young and old swarming everywhere – are we in the right place? Yep, just keep going to the gravel parking lot for Art Loeb Trail.

A young woman with a loaded backpack was studying the trailhead sign and she headed up the trail a few minutes ahead of us. We soon caught up with her and she was eager to chat. She was excited to begin a birthday challenge for herself, her first multi-day hike.

Carol and I surreptitiously raised eyebrows. We are both experienced backpacking know-it-alls and Shining Rock Wilderness is quite rugged, a myriad of unmarked animal and social trails with no signage. We suppressed the urge to grill her about gear, instead encouraging her that it was very doable. She said she had paper maps and some info from the AllTrails app, figured she would take 5 days or so. We took a group photo, and Carol and I wished her well and walked on, a little worried – yes, judging her (lack of?) preparedness.

Our superiority complexes were quickly squelched as the steepness of the trail in front of us took our breath away. Let’s slow down and appreciate nature. Lush foliage and midsummer flowers were putting on a show!

I do not know what this is...

Dutchman’s Pipe vines and heart-shaped foliage

Turk’s Cap Lily

Carol crossing one of several little streams

Fire Pinks

Sundrops

At about 4 miles, we reached Deep Gap, where the Art Loeb Trail turns right and Cold Mountain Trail turns left. We took a break to assess our energy levels.

Are we having fun yet? Carol debated whether she wanted to continue to the summit.  Up to this point, the Art Loeb had been challenging but not hard to follow, clear of obstacles. Looking at the head-high foliage pointing towards Cold Mountain, though, I also had doubts. This is where the “let’s start, see what it’s like, maybe turn around” philosophy applies. (Spoiler alert at the top of this post: we both made it to the summit.)

Can you see me?

The steep grade didn’t let up. The closer we got to the top, the more rugged the trail became. The tall undergrowth persisted, broken up occasionally by boulders. No surprise I only took three photos on this section.

A piped spring

Columbine

I see an opening…

The top of Cold Mountain is broad, mostly tree covered, but there is a survey marker

Several expanses of rock facing south, overlooking Shining Rock Wilderness’s green carpeted ridges. Like Goldilocks, we checked out all of them.

The Art Loeb Trail follows the ridgeline in the center of the photo

On the return hike, we stopped at Deep Gap again where a group of high school age Boy Scouts were setting up tents. We chatted with the woman who was guiding them on a 3-day backpack trip in Shining Rock Wilderness. We asked about the young woman on her Art Loeb birthday quest, but this group had not seen her.

Most folks who meet in the middle of the woods are happy to talk: where ya been,
where ya going?

Further down the trail, we met two men and asked if they had seen the young woman. They said yes, she was turning around, decided it was too much for her. She could have modified her plan to a one-nighter out-and-back, but at any rate, Carol and I were very happy to hear she had made a thoughtful decision.

Heck of a long drive back to Mount Pisgah Campground with plans for a simple dehydrated supper. At the neighboring campsite, two guys were cooking something that smelled delicious and they invited us to “sit a spell.” They were old friends who meet several times a year to camp together, cook a lot, smoke cigars, enjoy the peace and quiet of the outdoors. Their setup was elaborate, with a huge tent and canopies, camp cots and a large rug to keep the dirt out – and don’t forget the eternal campfire. We talked about what we’d done that day and they talked about what they might do tomorrow, after sleeping in and cooking breakfast and smoking more cigars.

Camp neighbors keeping their priorities straight

"Live your life by a compass, not a clock."
 ~Stephen Covey