South Dakota: Black Elk Peak

South Dakota: Black Elk Peak – 6/14/23 - 7 Miles

Still footloose in South Dakota on a sunny morning, thinking I’m recovered and ready for a challenge, I tackled the state high point of Black Elk Peak.

What’s in a name?

For 160 years, this formidable summit bore the name Harney Peak, in honor of the Army general who commanded a military expedition in 1855 resulting in the Battle of Ash Hollow in Nebraska – the massacre of Sioux warriors, women and children.

After decades of petitioning (why does it take us so long to right these wrongs?) on August 11, 2016 the name was changed to honor Oglala Lakota holy man Black Elk and to recognize the sacredness of the peak and the Black Hills to Native Americans. Prayer cloths are tied to trees and other vegetation on the summit approach in recognition and remembrance.

As I mentioned, Black Elk Peak is the high point of South Dakota – 7,242 feet – and is surrounded by Black Elk Wilderness within Black Hills National Forest. The roadless summit features a native stone fire tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1939. I’ve seen a few CCC fire towers, but this one is next level amazing. 

Another great trail blog with photos is here.

There are many miles of trails in Black Elk Wilderness, more than one route to the summit, and I chose the most direct one: Elk Peak Trail #9 starting from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park. [I hiked through Custer State Park on the Centennial Trail, but I missed most of the highlights that car-enabled visitors see in its 71,00 acres, including the lakes and lodges and the Needles Highway.] 

I’d learned that Black Elk Peak is the most popular hiking destination in the park and before 8:00 a.m. I skidded into the last open parking space in the dusty gravel lot at the trailhead. Folks were starting out in all stages of (un)preparedness with kids, dogs, and high hopes. 

I guess mom and dad will retrieve this on the way back down

The wide gravel roadbed started out easily, offering this teaser view around
 one of the first curves

The gentleness is soon gone as the grade gets steeper and the tread gets rougher – and why am I wheezing? Oh, yeah, the elevation surpasses NC’s high point of Mount Mitchell (6,684 feet) within the first mile.

So let’s stop and look at these pretty flowers

Keep going!

Stairs going up into the rock are a good sign, right?

We have arrived!

Looking down at where I just climbed up

Time for a new plaque?

The structure is quite large and all spaces are open to explore, including the top lookout tower. This website describes it: “The lookout tower, dam, pump house and stairway were constructed upon the highpoint. The reservoir created by the dam supplied water to the living quarters which were located in the lower level of the fire tower. The comforts of electricity, flush toilets, and a central heating system were incorporated into the remote fire lookout tower.” 

The pump house and water retention pond

If you haven’t had enough of looking at the Black Hills, there is a wide expanse of rock
 on the back side of the tower 

Just pick your spot with a view (try to ignore the shirtless youth)

Soaking up this flawless day, reflecting on my good fortune to have
the health, wealth and time to be here

As more and more intrepid hikers reached the summit, the time came for me to hike out. Descending is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees, and hurrying is a good way to have an injury. I took my time going against the flow.

What’s that? Did someone just call my name?  There it is again! I looked down the trail, very suspicious…who in the world knows that I am here today?

This guy right here: Richard is a trail angel who supports hikers on the Centennial Trail. During our hike Nancy and I had tried working out an overnight stay at his cottage with transport back to the trail, but if you’ve read past entries you know that plans changed, so I never got the opportunity to meet Richard. Yet here he was, hiking to Black Elk Peak, and he recognized me from Facebook!

My morning adventures were followed by afternoon fun in the town of Custer, South Dakota, which you’ll have on your radar if/when you visit this part of the world. I roamed around the don’t-miss Custer County Courthouse Museum. The volunteer ladies there were a hoot and we had a nice long chat about the importance of preserving local history.

Who’s hungry? I found the best of the best at Black Hills Burger & Bun Co. The restaurant was packed when I walked in alone, and the host quickly and quietly walked me over to a table for one. I gobbled down an incredible bison burger (don’t think about it) and thanked the good Lord for this incredible day.

BUT…it’s not over yet!

I went back to my Airbnb, feeling a little lonely, when the next surprise happened. Bridget, the shuttle trail angel who put Nancy and me on the Centennial Trail and then later retrieved me, texted: “What are you doing right now?”

Dani (the woman with Bridget the day she picked me up from Whispering Pines, now completed her CT thru-hike) and Lynn (Nancy's hiking buddy completing the CT) – all were gathered at Bridget’s for dinner! Would I like to join? Would I like to sleep over?

Yes, please.

I packed up, turned out the lights, closed the door of the Airbnb, and walked into warm hospitality at Bridget’s house. And all because my backpack got on a plane to Dallas.

“I believe in coincidences, I’ve just never
 seen one.”
 ~ A Wise Friend

South Dakota: Badlands National Park

South Dakota: Badlands National Park – 6/13/23 - 3 Miles

Nancy returned home the morning after she finished her Centennial Trail thru-hike. Busy life! I dropped her at the Rapid City Airport and headed east for a day trip to Badlands National Park.  

What’s in a name?

When Badlands was first proposed as a national park in 1922, the suggested name was Wonderland National Park – thankfully that one didn’t stick! The Lakota name for this unique landscape is Mako Sica.

Weather extremes in summer and winter, few water sources, and difficulty in navigation contribute to indigenous people’s “bad” appellation, and the powers-that-be establishing the national park (finally) paid attention to Lakota wisdom.

Go deep here on the NPS website for articles of history and culture.

There are two distinct sections of Badlands NP. Ben Reifel Visitor Center is in the North Unit, open year round, easily reached via I-90. White River Visitor Center is in the Stronghold Unit to the southwest, open in summer season. This unit and Palmer Creek Unit are within Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. It’s not easy to get from one section to the other for a thorough visit in a single day. Like most visitors, I chose the road more traveled – the Loop Road through the North Unit.

Fossils of earlier life in the Badlands were uncovered by indigenous peoples long before Europeans arrived at what is called White River Badlands (Badlands NP is a small part of this area).

Present-day Badlands wildlife includes buffalo, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, prairie dogs, cute prairie dogs and serious prairie rattlesnakes. There are few established trails. You are welcome to hike “anywhere” but be prepared to help yourself get out of trouble! I stuck to a couple of short signed trails. I didn’t want to navigate solo and I sure didn’t want to count the rattlesnakes.

A short distance past the Northeast Entrance to the Loop Road, a big parking lot appears with the promise of bathrooms, information signs and an introduction to the lunar landscape. You can choose to walk on the Door Trail, the Window Trail, or the Notch Trail – or all three! 

The Door Trail begins as a .25-mile accessible boardwalk to a viewpoint “doorway” in the wall
of rock. From there, you can wander on your own path or follow the yellow poles to go deeper
into the landscape. 

The Notch Trail, 1.5 miles round trip, was lush with blooming cactus

 and other flowers in a small canyon

The exciting part of the Notch Trail is climbing up to a ledge on a very unstable ladder that is not secured to the slope. This is not as easy as it looks (notice the people using hands and feet near the top). 

There were groups of people negotiating this ladder with no regard for taking turns or safety of others. I was by myself and had to squeeze myself into the queue to get back down, then had to holler at others to stop ascending as I was trying to descend. (&#%*!)

View of White River Valley from the Notch

Window Trail, an easy walk to a great view

The Ben Reifel VC was buzzing with activity. They have a very cool working fossil prep lab where volunteers demonstrate and explain their work. Kids were being sworn in as Junior Rangers.

Leaving the crowded VC, I realized it was way past time I should have stopped for my packed lunch. The sun was strong and the temperature was high - I didn’t want to eat in my car. At the next picnic area there were somewhat shaded picnic tables, all occupied. What to do? Be friendly! I introduced myself and asked a couple if I could share their space. We had a great conversation about their RV travels and retirement life.

The rest of the Loop Road offers viewpoints on both sides and I stopped at every one. What really knocked my socks off was Yellow Mounds Overlook, a palette of colors I did not expect. From a big pull-out area, I scrambled up on a ridge to get the full impact.

Reflection: the United States’ diversity of geography, geology, climate, wildlife, and human life often leaves me speechless. I am so grateful for my country’s commitment to preservation and celebration of public lands. 

The paved Loop Road ends at the Pinnacles Entrance, where the unpaved Sage Creek Rim Road beckons. With more precise planning and a travel partner, this looks like an intriguing and worthwhile extension of a visit to include the southwestern portions of Badlands NP. Another time!

Had to do it: on the way back to Rapid City, I stopped at Wall Drug to see what all the fuss was about. I wandered around, bought a doughnut and a souvenir, and got outta there. 

“Only when the last tree has been cut down
 and the last river has been poisoned
and the last fish has been caught
 will you realize you cannot eat money.”
 ~Cree Prophecy

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Northern Terminus at Bear Butte State Park

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Northern Terminus at Bear Butte State Park

8/12/23 – 2.9 Miles

On Saturday morning, Nancy shouldered her pack and continued her journey on the Centennial Trail. My new plan for the rest of my time in South Dakota included meeting her and her hiking buddy, Lynne, on Monday morning for the final push to the northern terminus - the summit at Bear Butte State Park. 

Again, what’s in a name?

The Lakota call this sacred mountain Mato Paha (Bear Mountain). Many Native Americans see Bear Butte as a place where the creator has chosen to communicate with them through visions and prayer. (Like many sites, there are sacred prayers cloths along the paths.) The geological term “butte” is an isolated hill with steep sides and a small, relatively flat top. So the white English settlers’ name that we all know is Bear Butte.

I hurried to get to the park ahead of our rendezvous time, but Nancy and Lynne had started walking at o’dark-thirty and entered the parking lot at the same time I did. They regaled me with stories of rain, mud, an early dawn patrol on maneuvers as the trail passed by Fort Meade, and cows that didn’t want to give the right-of-way. Those two hiked more than 50 miles in 2.5 days! An affirmation that we each made the right decisions for ourselves.

Lynne, me and Nancy – here we go!

Being aware of the weather forecast is essential – you don’t want to be on Bear Butte when thunderstorms and high winds come rushing across the plains. Being mindful of intense summer heat is also important. For a Centennial Trail thru-hiker, planning for a morning summit is the wisest choice. 

Lynne dumped some of her pack weight at the car and I carried a daypack,

but Nancy was fully loaded and on a mission

The Summit Trail curves around the east/north side of the mountain and then switchbacks steeply to the top on a narrow path of loose rock. I knew going down would be challenging, but the blue sky and puffy clouds and long views lifted my heart up.

Bear Butte Reservoir and campground below

Trail hugging the mountain

Sentinel tree

A wide flat platform at the top

We cruised triumphantly back to Rapid City, stopping for sodas and snacks, and dropped Lynne at her hotel. I had booked an Airbnb for the next two nights, so Nancy and I cleaned up and walked downtown for beer and food. We took the scenic route back and met some interesting fellows.

Do you know what Rapid City’s most popular attraction is? Presidential statues on every corner, created by different sculptors, each life sized and depicting some aspect of his life/service to our country. (Read all about them here and here.)

Nancy gives a high five to Barack Obama.
I'm so grateful for these adventures with my friend!

“If we can somehow keep alive a spark
 of adventure, then any expedition becomes
 more than a journey through wild country.
It becomes a shining challenge
 and an adventure of the spirit.”
 ~The Lonely Land by Sigurd F. Olsen