South Dakota: Black Elk Peak – 6/14/23 - 7 Miles
Still footloose in South Dakota on a sunny morning, thinking I’m recovered and ready for a challenge, I tackled the state high point of Black Elk Peak.
What’s in a name?
For 160 years, this formidable summit bore the name Harney Peak, in honor of the Army general who commanded a military expedition in 1855 resulting in the Battle of Ash Hollow in Nebraska – the massacre of Sioux warriors, women and children.
After decades of petitioning (why does it take us so long to right these wrongs?) on August 11, 2016 the name was changed to honor Oglala Lakota holy man Black Elk and to recognize the sacredness of the peak and the Black Hills to Native Americans. Prayer cloths are tied to trees and other vegetation on the summit approach in recognition and remembrance.
As I mentioned, Black Elk Peak is the high point of South Dakota – 7,242 feet – and is surrounded by Black Elk Wilderness within Black Hills National Forest. The roadless summit features a native stone fire tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1939. I’ve seen a few CCC fire towers, but this one is next level amazing.
Another great trail blog with photos is here.
There are many miles of trails in Black Elk Wilderness, more than one route to the summit, and I chose the most direct one: Elk Peak Trail #9 starting from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park. [I hiked through Custer State Park on the Centennial Trail, but I missed most of the highlights that car-enabled visitors see in its 71,00 acres, including the lakes and lodges and the Needles Highway.]
I’d learned that Black Elk Peak is the most popular hiking destination in the park and before 8:00 a.m. I skidded into the last open parking space in the dusty gravel lot at the trailhead. Folks were starting out in all stages of (un)preparedness with kids, dogs, and high hopes.
one of the first curves
The gentleness is soon gone as the grade gets steeper and the tread gets rougher – and why am I wheezing? Oh, yeah, the elevation surpasses NC’s high point of Mount Mitchell (6,684 feet) within the first mile.
So let’s stop and look at these pretty flowers
Keep going!
The structure is quite large and all spaces are open to explore, including the top lookout tower. This website describes it: “The lookout tower, dam, pump house and stairway were constructed upon the highpoint. The reservoir created by the dam supplied water to the living quarters which were located in the lower level of the fire tower. The comforts of electricity, flush toilets, and a central heating system were incorporated into the remote fire lookout tower.”
on the back side of the tower
the health, wealth and time to be here
As more and more intrepid hikers reached the summit, the time came for me to hike out. Descending is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees, and hurrying is a good way to have an injury. I took my time going against the flow.
What’s that? Did someone just call my name? There it is again! I looked down the trail, very suspicious…who in the world knows that I am here today?
This guy right here: Richard is a trail angel who supports hikers on the Centennial Trail. During our hike Nancy and I had tried working out an overnight stay at his cottage with transport back to the trail, but if you’ve read past entries you know that plans changed, so I never got the opportunity to meet Richard. Yet here he was, hiking to Black Elk Peak, and he recognized me from Facebook!
My morning adventures were followed by afternoon fun in the town of Custer, South Dakota, which you’ll have on your radar if/when you visit this part of the world. I roamed around the don’t-miss Custer County Courthouse Museum. The volunteer ladies there were a hoot and we had a nice long chat about the importance of preserving local history.
Who’s hungry? I found the best of the best at Black Hills Burger & Bun Co. The restaurant was packed when I walked in alone, and the host quickly and quietly walked me over to a table for one. I gobbled down an incredible bison burger (don’t think about it) and thanked the good Lord for this incredible day.
BUT…it’s not over yet!
I went back to my Airbnb, feeling a little lonely, when the next surprise happened. Bridget, the shuttle trail angel who put Nancy and me on the Centennial Trail and then later retrieved me, texted: “What are you doing right now?”
Dani (the woman with Bridget the day she picked me up from Whispering Pines, now completed her CT thru-hike) and Lynn (Nancy's hiking buddy completing the CT) – all were gathered at Bridget’s for dinner! Would I like to join? Would I like to sleep over?
Yes, please.
I packed up, turned out the lights, closed the door of the Airbnb, and walked into warm hospitality at Bridget’s house. And all because my backpack got on a plane to Dallas.
seen one.”
~ A Wise Friend
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