Maine 2021: Acadia National Park – Schoodic Mountain Loop – 7/13/21 – 3 Miles
Today’s focus is Schoodic Peninsula (pronounced like “scoop” not like “shoe”), a secluded part of Acadia National Park that sees a fraction of visitors compared to Mount Desert Island. It’s the only part of the park that is on the mainland. Jim and I drove through the tiny village of Winter Harbor, making a note to spend time there later in the day.
Another way to visit Winter Harbor is via the seasonal ferry that operates from Bar Harbor – a boat ride across Frenchman’s Bay between two charming destinations!
Past the village we turned right onto Schoodic Loop Road, a simple scenic drive to most points of interest on the peninsula. In addition to the main attractions of Frazier Point, Schoodic Point and hiking trailheads, there are many turnouts to stop for photos, rest awhile, put your toes in the water and squint at islands on the horizon.
Note: If you’re going, be aware that this road is one way counterclockwise on the lower half of the peninsula, from Frazier Point on the west side to Wonsqueak Bike Path on the east side. Be sure you know where you want to go. If you miss your turnout or parking area, it’s a long way back around. Bikes are allowed but must follow the one-way guidelines. One advantage of biking is that there are paved trails crisscrossing the peninsula in addition to the Loop Road.
At Schoodic Woods Campground ranger station we consulted with the ranger about the hike we were looking at (it’s a loop and there’s a difference between hiking clockwise or counterclockwise). I enjoy talking with park rangers, getting up-to-the-minute information and hearing their enthusiasm for their parks. Always remember to say thank you!
Onward to Schoodic Point, the southernmost tip of the peninsula (via a two-way spur road). The broad expanse of granite headlands exudes drama, enticing you to walk around and explore, but keep in mind that rocks are always slippery.
We walked far out onto the granite shoreline, as close to the water’s edge as we could safely venture. The rocks don’t slope gently down, they “cliff out.” Waves crashed and receded at deep cuts in the shoreline similar to Thunder Hole on MDI. The spray was unpredictable and spectacular.
The human history of Schoodic Point is also fascinating. The Schoodic Institute is located just up the road. With little knowledge of its origins, Jim and I stopped for a visit. Boy, did we learn a LOT!
On its website the Institute acknowledges Schoodic Point as the homeland of the Wabanaki, People of the Dawn, and the Institute’s pledge to support the Wabanaki Nations.
The 20th century history includes a “land swap” moving a naval security base from Otter Point on Mount Desert Island to Schoodic Point. Why? To appease President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s desire to build out the Park Loop Road on MDI. What was the significance of this part of Maine's coastline? In World War I, Otter Point was an ideal location for a “strategic listening station” receiving radio signals from Europe. After its move to Schoodic Point, the naval base grew and when World War II commenced it operated to locate foreign warships (German submarines). Read more here.
Today the Schoodic Institute partners with Acadia National Park and is dedicated to collaborating with scientists, educators and citizen scientists in understanding the biodiversity and national and global environmental issues, with a focus on youth programming.
How about a hike now, y’all? Let’s check out the high point of the peninsula: Schoodic Head.
There are several trailheads to start from. From Blueberry Hill parking we walked a short distance on the Loop Road to the Anvil Trail. Our route included the Anvil Trail, Schoodic Head Trail, and Alder Trail back to our car. Yes, we’re doing it CCW – the hard way.
These trails were shorter than those we’d hiked on Mount Desert Island but every bit as rugged, non-stop rock steps and boulders. The climb from the trailhead to the summit was just 1.4 miles and 442 feet elevation gain but, jeez Louise, what a workout!
And great training for our big hike coming up later this week (stay tuned)!
The summit is not at the intersection (there is a surveyor’s marker).
This is looking eastward across Schoodic Harbor to Spruce Point and beyond.
Our loop continued on Schoodic Head Trail, a steep descent to Ranger Cabin Road (oh, look, we could have driven up here on a gravel road), then a short walk on the forest road to the beginning of Alder Trail.
Alder Trail was an understatement after all the boulder drama. We were glad we chose the counterclockwise route and the easy stroll back to Blueberry Hill parking.
We continued on Schoodic Loop Road as it hugged the coastline(looking back here at Schoodic Head)
It was now 1:00 p.m., later than we had expected, and we were tired, dirty and hungry (not necessarily in that order). En route to our little cottage, we stopped at the lobster tent in front of Fisherman’s Galley to alleviate the “hungry” factor. Again, very pricey but the timing was right.
After a hot shower and clean clothes, we were ready to ramble in Winter Harbor. We’d come to accept that businesses and restaurants don't operate 7 days a week here in Maine, even in the height of summer. Restaurants were closed either Monday-Tuesday or Tuesday-Wednesday, as are some shops and galleries (was this culture or COVID?) Even the library, housed in an old church with stained glass windows, was closed today.
But the Winter Harbor 5&10 was open! They are very proud of this original store. It is stuffed to the gills with things you didn't know you needed. I swore off souvenir tee shirts years ago but couldn’t resist a long-sleeved collegiate style Winter Harbor shirt. More predictably, I picked up a wonderful book In Maine: Essays of Life’s Seasons by John N. Cole.
On our host’s advice, Jim and I joined the long line for ice cream at a shack called Me & Ben's. Why do people love an ice cream line? It’s part of summertime, the anticipation as you see what the people in front of you are getting. Blueberry soft serve piled high, a tasty treat!
We drove through other villages on the peninsula – Birch Harbor, Prospect Harbor and Corea - sleepy little places, picturesque with a capital “P”, and ended with dinner at a local Winter Harbor hangout called Chase’s Restaurant. I was introduced to “lazy lobster” that they crack and extract for you. Delicious!
Tomorrow’s inland destination: Millocket.
“Smell the sea and feel the sky,
let your soul and spirits fly.”
~Van Morrison
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