Stephanie was heading home on Sunday and Jessie and Taryn were my hiking buddies (good sports) for the day. Overnight I had decided that I needed to cleanse the car break-in scare and go back to the same trailhead, but with a differe
nt scenario. Nora and Ginger, our chef and camp comfort expert (have I told you how Ginger has every campsite luxury you can name in the back of her truck? Chairs, gazebo, lanterns, full-size propane tank, coolers!) were up for a hike as well, so out came the trusty maps and a scheme developed. We left a car and a truck at our terminus along Cataloochee Road near the Beech School and then Stephanie drove us all back up Cove Creek Road. First she dropped off Jessie and Taryn and me at the Mount Sterling Trail trailhead and then she dropped off Nora and Jessie at the Little Cataloochee Trail trailhead. The first group's hike would be 9.1 miles and the second group's hike would be 6 miles. Long Bunk Trail ends at Little Cataloochee Trail, so we would be trailing Nora and Ginger all day. Remember to click on photos to see full screen!
Those of you who are really interested can find all this on a park trail map. It makes a lot more sense with visuals!
We had just a half-mile to hike up the Mount Sterling Trail before turning left onto Long Bunk. This half-mile was a lung-buster. I don't even want to know what the elevation change is. We spent a short minute lamenting that we could not go on up to the fire tower, since it was such a gorgeously clear day, but time did not permit (our lungs thanked us). Long Bunk was delightful, gradually descending to the sound of gurgling water. Taryn did not have trekking poles so we shared my two, and she quickly learned how helpful they are for crossing creeks. At most creek crossings there was enough flat land to imagine a home site, and indeed folks once lived along Long Bunk Trail. Hiking Trails Of The Smokies, a guide that describes each Smokies trail in-depth, complete with elevation drawings and much history, advises, "While contemplating this trail, imagine the children of Mr. and Mrs. David B. Nelson, who lived one mile north of Mount Sterling Gap and hiked this route five miles to Little Cataloochee school arriving there daily at 10:00 a.m." Yes, in the snow, too...
Long Bunk Trail also afforded our best examples yet of animal tracks. There were muddy places, now somewhat dry, where we were able to distinguish deer and elk tracks, and one place in particular where the elk prints skidded as though the elk was running. We saw what we swear are bear tracks close by to explain the running. We also swear that we saw large cat tracks (I mean LARGE). So our story is that the bear was chasing the elk and the mountain lion was stalking the bear and...no, really...come on now...
My photography skills are still lacking, but here is a photo of a great American chestnut tree felled by blight in the '30s. The trail goes alongside it. I'm thinking the tree was there first.
Jessie showed me how to take flower close-ups! This is mountain laurel.
Just before the end of Long Bunk Trail we passed the Hannah Cemetery and then arrived at Little Cataloochee Trail. Taryn and Jessie elected to have lunch while I set off yet again to "tag" the eastern end of Little Cataloochee, a mile out and then a mile back in. (This would make 11.1 miles for me for the day). This end of Little Cataloochee is a gravel road maintained because of Little Cataloochee Church that we would soon be visiting. The road is opened once a year for a reunion at the church of former residents and descendants of Little Cataloochee Valley, where I am told that they ring the bell once for each person who has passed a
way that year.
way that year.
After playing tag (I won) we set off. This trail has a couple of restored home sites, the first of which is Hannah Cabin, built in 1864 and restored in 1976
using original construction practices.
using original construction practices.
It is small, plain and lovely. There are tables set up out back for the reunion picnics.
The cemetery for the church is close by. This simple round stone with the
yellow flower was very touching. The inscription reads
"Rebecca Elwood, 1869-1909."
Miles to go and the tough climb is still ahead. Another home site along the way is the Dan Cook place. The Cook cabin has been restored similar to the Hannah Cabin, but the most fascinating sight is the ruins of the apple house. (Click on the photo to see the stone wall behind me.)
Gee whiz, it's amazing how much water one consumes on a warm hiking day! Taryn was running low so we decided to get water fr
om the creek that followed the trail. We treated the water with my AquaMira drops (one solution purifies the water, the other takes away the yucky purifier taste). It does work, tastes just fine. You might not want to think about the fact that, unlike a water filter that removes the bad things, with water droplets the bad things are still there. They just can't hurt you now. But I did use this system on the backpack trip at Hazel Creek with no ill effects, so I'm happy with it. And Taryn is still alive!
om the creek that followed the trail. We treated the water with my AquaMira drops (one solution purifies the water, the other takes away the yucky purifier taste). It does work, tastes just fine. You might not want to think about the fact that, unlike a water filter that removes the bad things, with water droplets the bad things are still there. They just can't hurt you now. But I did use this system on the backpack trip at Hazel Creek with no ill effects, so I'm happy with it. And Taryn is still alive!
Past the Cook cabin the gravel road disappeared and became a true trail again and we found ourselves climbing a mountain. Then...we found ourselves going down a mo
untain. I think this is Noland Mountain and it divided Big Cata- loochee from Little Cata- loochee. This is where the children of the first settlers of Big Cataloochee went as they married and began families. Trying to get away from the in-laws? It worked! Many small creek crossings again, including an interesting use of a downed hemlock tree.
untain. I think this is Noland Mountain and it divided Big Cata- loochee from Little Cata- loochee. This is where the children of the first settlers of Big Cataloochee went as they married and began families. Trying to get away from the in-laws? It worked! Many small creek crossings again, including an interesting use of a downed hemlock tree.
Eventually Little Cataloochee Trail ended. We turned left on Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and followed it .8 miles to our car on Cataloochee Road. Near the end we passed the horse camp section which is quite extensive. If you have horses, this is the place to take them!
Nora and Ginger had finished their hike ahead of us and were touring the Beech School and other restored buildings. Once we w
ere all back at camp, Nora thrilled us with pizza cooked on the camp stove, complete with choice of olives and pepperoni. Heaven! Thanks once again, Nora. We quickly cleaned up and hopped in the car and truck to go to the drive-in, as I was the only one who had seen the "elk at dusk" feature. This being Memorial Day weekend, the crowd was big, and it was as much fun people-watching as elk-watching.
ere all back at camp, Nora thrilled us with pizza cooked on the camp stove, complete with choice of olives and pepperoni. Heaven! Thanks once again, Nora. We quickly cleaned up and hopped in the car and truck to go to the drive-in, as I was the only one who had seen the "elk at dusk" feature. This being Memorial Day weekend, the crowd was big, and it was as much fun people-watching as elk-watching.
There were Park volunteers at the edge of the meadow answering questions and checking out the elk, as there were two pregnant females that were beginning to separate themselves from the herd, presumably to give birth. The volunteers were an absolute wealth of information, telling fascinating stories of life in Cataloochee. One story went that every year for several years the menfolk went over the mountain to Waynesville to ask the school board to build a new school for the growing community. Each time they were turned down, citing budget, etc. (some things never change, right?) This particular year the menfolk bought a bottle or two and "discussed the situation" around the campfire on the way back home. Then they went to the school, removed the desks and other things, and set fire to the school. A disaster for sure! A new one was built. The men promised to keep the secret and only the last man left alive would tell. And he did.
Back at camp after the elkfest and it's time for a Girl Scout tradition: a campfire and marshmallows. What's not to love about this life?
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