South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 5 - Rapid Creek To Whispering Pines Campground

South Dakota:  Centennial Trail Day 5 – Rapid Creek to Whispering Pines Campground

6/9/23 – 7 Miles

I woke up unburdened, still resolute in my decision to end my Centennial Trail hike today. Nancy and I ate quickly, packed up, and stepped off quite early to beat stormy weather due this afternoon. Gratifying to see long shadows as we shouldered our packs, but don’t be fooled – we know rain is a-comin’!

Lest we think that we’ve put all the hard work behind us, early on the trail warmed us up climbing above Pactola Lake. Still in deep shadows.

Pactola Lake is the largest and deepest reservoir in the Black Hills. Read a little more here.

Boat launch at Pactola Lake

In a small, sweet meadow we took a break to enjoy the view

Cactus?

Nancy moving on

Following the now-familiar pattern of old logging roads and single track, the trail led us through open forest and meadows, showing off flowers and ponderosa pines.

Black henbane

Yellow salsify aka yellow goatsbeard

Nancy convinced me to sniff a ponderosa pine tree to see if it smells like vanilla

We’d heard tell of an unusual object on the trail, no signage or particular landmark to indicate its presence…if you’re looking at your feet you’ll miss it…

Yes, it’s a DISCO BALL! You know what to do now!

A good belly laugh in the middle of the woods

It’s easy to miss the turn-off to Deer Creek Trailhead even if there’s no disco ball distraction 

Here I said goodbye to the CT, silently promising myself that I can someday return
to pick up where I left off

Hello, Whispering Pines Campground!

Yesterday (just before the lightning storm) Nancy called and scored a last-minute cancellation for a cabin, so no pitching tents tonight. Check out their Facebook page for up-to-date info. 

Today we were greeted by Harley, the owner, and collected our resupply boxes, no longer necessary for me but imperative for Nancy. What was of utmost importance to me was a monster Mountain Dew from the icebox that I guzzled down immediately. 

Rushmore Cabin – hallelujah! A long walk to the bathhouse, but hot showers, laundry facilities,
a dry roof over our heads and a porch swing!

At the bathhouse I showered, put on clean clothes and started a load of laundry. A thunderstorm came through as I transferred my clothes to the dryer. I stood under the breezeway roof, safe and dry, listening to the rumble and watching the downpour flood the gravel drive alongside the RVs. How many more affirmations do I need that this is my stopping point?

What storm clouds?

Summer staffer Paula and her furry friend Maisy (because she is amazing) drove us to the Sugar Shack for takeout food. This iconic local joint is a much-anticipated stop for thru-hikers on the CT and a hub for the locals. [In December 2023 Sugar Shack was completely destroyed by fire, devastating to this rural community where neighbors support one another. They are now operating out of the Merritt General Grill. Plans for rebuilding are in the works.]

Nancy and I sat at our little picnic table by our cabin and enjoyed a wide-ranging conversation with our food and adult beverages. It was sad that our time on trail was ended but (no surprise) Nancy made a friend at the showers (Lynne) and they decided to hike on together to complete the trail. I felt very happy that she made this new connection, for companionship, speed, safety and fun. (She’ll finish the trail in 2 days, where I had estimated another 4 days for me.) We made plans to meet on Monday at Bear Butte State Park, the northern terminus of the trail, and we’ll summit together.

Nancy organized her gear to continue her hike while I contacted Roam’N Around for a shuttle pickup tomorrow morning. I also booked a room at Comfort Inn in Rapid City and rearranged my rental car that I had reserved for later in the week.

In the very early morning rain Nancy shouldered her pack and slipped out the cabin door. Bridget from Roam’n Around arrived mid-morning to pick me up - so happy to see her! (Read about our shuttle ride with Bridget to start the trail here.) She was transporting another solo woman (Dani) who was taking a day off for the rain, going back to stay at Bridget’s. The SUV was filled with chatter as we compared experiences on and off-trail.

Bridget and Dani dropped me at the Rapid City airport with all my stuff plus Nancy’s big duffel bag, which I wrangled into a massive Ford Expedition, very nice indeed for little ol’ me. At the Comfort Inn, I holed up with more sodas and candy bars and my resupply box, clean towels, a king size bed, more big fluffy pillows than anyone needs.

The hotel was full (Saturday night) with middle school age soccer teams in town for a tournament. At 2:00 am someone set off a fire alarm and we had to wait outside for the fire department to come and clear it.

BUT after that I was inside and warm and dry.

Instead of my planned 4 days post-hike, ahead of me now is 7 days of fun “roamin’ around” South Dakota before my return flight. What shall I do? Stay tuned.

“Another turning point, a fork stuck in the road

Time grabs you by the wrist, directs you where to go

So make the best of this test and don’t ask why

It’s not a question but a lesson learned in time

It’s something unpredictable, but then again is right

I hope you had the time of your life”

~ Green Day

 

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 4 - Sheridan Lake to Rapid Creek

 South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 4 – Sheridan Lake to Rapid Creek
 6/8/23 – 14.5 Miles

Good morning from Sheridan Lake Campground

After yesterday’s ugly finish, I packed up with determination to push through our plan for the next 2 days: hike 14.5 miles today to Rapid Creek Trailhead and camp nearby, then a half-day hike (6-ish miles) the next day to Deer Creek and detour to Whispering Pines Campground where we’ve sent our resupply boxes. We'll clean up, rest up, chug lots of sugary soft drinks, and camp there. Yes, I can do this!

By the shores of Sheridan Lake

At a trail junction, Flume Trail loop goes right and the CT turns left to cross the dam 

A fancy wooden bridge crosses the lake’s outlet to Spring Creek 

Looking at Sheridan Lake from the bridge

Looking at Spring Creek from the bridge

This bit of trail was an old road bumping along up and down to Dakota Point Trailhead. The popular picnic area is .8 miles away, but we didn’t bother entertaining the idea of checking it out.

After crossing Sheridan Lake Road (Highway 228) we walked along several miles of old roadbeds and cattle trails, taking in the expansive rolling hills and open grasslands. CT 89 trail markers were few and far between.

What storm clouds?

Water reservoirs for cattle – in very dry conditions CT hikers have filtered water here
 (fortunately we didn’t have to)

We stopped for a brief break in prairie paradise, melting into the idyllic scenery, and discovered we both had cell service (don’t judge). As I texted with Jim, Nancy checked the weather and suddenly jumped up: “We’d better get out of here and into some trees.”

Oh, THOSE storm clouds…

Nancy’s lightning tracker app showed a LOT of activity coming towards us. Her serious expression sobered me up as we walked quickly, then sprinted, turning off the exposed trail to run down to lower ground. We looked for a grove of trees of similar height so we could sit apart from each other to reduce the risk of us both getting zapped. (Don't think about it don't think about it don't think about it)

We sat and listened to thunder booming as a light rain fell around us, followed by glimmers of sunshine. Nancy’s app indicated more storms were forming, so we got back on trail, keeping a quick pace as we continued descending. This was definitely NOT FUN.

We moved away from the storms as the trail crisscrossed gravel Brush Creek Road and more single track, passing through brief stretches of pine stands, open fields, and gates to keep cattle in/out.

Dandelions along Brush Creek Road

As I walked the miles between Brush Creek and Rapid Creek, I pondered yesterday’s degree of difficulty, my extreme tiredness, my ill-fitting backpack, and the unnerving dangers of quickly developing lightning storms. What adjustments could I make to do this for 5 more days? Can I just suck it up? Tomorrow this time we’ll be at Whispering Pines. Will a shower and real food be enough to reset?

I felt hotspots on my feet and called a timeout to take a look. Sure enough, several blisters were forming, which hasn't happened to me in years. Hmmm.

Nancy continued to monitor the weather forecast, indicating that rain was coming starting tomorrow afternoon with a total washout the day after. My pondering increased to serious deliberation. I strongly dislike (hate) setting up a tent in the rain. How many adverse conditions add up to discontinuing my hike? Did I just not train enough? Is it failure or is it wise to stop before I do more damage to my body? Do I care if I am judged? If these conditions discourage me, what does that mean? Am I declaring an end to my backpacking life?

Another consideration: Nancy has been incredibly supportive, but she isn’t here just to help me. She is hiking for herself as well. If I decide to stop, she can continue to “hike her own hike,” certainly faster. The sooner I tell Nancy what I’m thinking, the sooner she can make her own plan.

A ray of clarity: being outside fills my soul, but not with a 27-pound backpack in thunderstorms. The inclination to end my hike became a decision and then a resolution. It’s okay to let go of completion goals. Waves of peace and relief came over me and feelings of doubt dissipated. I shared my decision with Nancy and we talked over the logistics going forward.

Ahhhhhh…my load felt lighter already.

Rapid Creek Trailhead at Pactola Basin Road was a welcome sight (hello pit toilets – yay!) but not a good place to camp because of easy accessibility for party people. We scouted around for a protected hidden spot. There was a stand of mature Ponderosa pines right beside the creek, but this didn’t look appealing in the event of another lightning storm.

We crossed Pactola Basin Road in search of a place to pitch tents closer to the water, but there wasn’t enough vegetation to screen us from the road.

Ultimately we decided to camp tucked in under the small grove of Ponderosa Pines, secluded and close by the creek. A curious person would have to walk right up in there to see us. (The pit toilets were still close enough for convenience.)

Nancy boiling water on her backpacking stove

We ate supper relaxing by the creek, entertained by Nature’s show. We watched two trout in a pool, facing upstream and holding steady, as though they were taking a rest. A pair of Canada geese and their brood of six goslings paddled merrily with the flow.

Sure enough, a thunderstorm rolled through around 1:30 a.m. There wasn’t much we could do underneath those majestic tall pines except wait for it to pass and go back to sleep. 

“Thunder on a hot summer day reminds me
 that change happens when we least expect it.”
~Anonymous

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 3 - Mount Rushmore Overlook to Sheridan Lake

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 3
Mount Rushmore Overlook to Sheridan Lake
6/7/23 - 18.4 Miles

Setting up camp close to a trail is usually not ideal, but no one passed by us during the night. Nancy and I were up and out early the next morning because we’ve got big miles today, including…

But first we’ve got to get across Grizzly Bear Creek

Ah, here we are!

Nancy opted to tote her full pack up the .8-mile side trail to see the big guys, but I hid mine behind trees at the junction so I could walk unencumbered both physically and mentally.

Did I mention that walk-ins are FREE?

So much to say about Mount Rushmore. The sheer size and execution of the sculpture is breathtaking. At the same time, it is disconcerting that this mountain that the Lakota people call Tunkasila Sakne Paha, or Six Grandfathers Mountain, was taken (many say stolen) to create a tourist attraction. Sounds harsh? Read more about the controversies here.

The National Park Service’s attempt to acknowledge and consult with associated tribal nations in the Black Hills can be found here.

If you just want some interesting “fun facts” read here.

Hypocrite that I am, here’s my photo at Mount Rushmore

Mount Rushmore National Memorial is more than just the granite mountain carving. There is extensive infrastructure to support the crowds, from the massive parking lot to the impressive Visitor Center, souvenir shops and a dining hall – and don’t forget the ice cream station. Nancy and I were ahead of the crowds - in fact, the Carvers’ Cafe was not yet open. What, no breakfast? No coffee? But we walked all this way!

After oohing and aahing at the rock, we explored an exhibit at the Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center depicting the planning and construction of the monument by American sculptor Gutzon Borglum and his son, Lincoln, as they directed a team of over 400 men in the work. [The 14-minute film is well worth your time.]

We returned to the now-open dining hall for some sustenance and phone charging and spotty wifi to upload photos and check in at home.  No time now for a full breakfast but we shared a decadent jumbo honeybun loaded with icing (remember, calories!)

Leaving Disney-Rushmore behind, we scampered back to the Centennial Trail, where I reshouldered my somehow-heavier-now backpack. The temperature was rising, as was the terrain, so I knew I would be slowing down. Nancy moved on ahead as we agreed to meet up at a trail junction. I wrangled my sun umbrella into position and was thankful once again for this piece of gear.

Lucky me for the opportunity to chat with this dayhiking group of awesome women,

three generations (proud grandma on the left)

Nancy waiting for me at the junction, demonstrating another great function

of the umbrella: keeping bugs away

We took the spur trail to Horsethief Lake and ate lunch at an unoccupied waterfront campsite. I can understand routing the main trail to bypass the lakes, but I’m glad there are options to get close to the shores. Something about a body of water flanked by trees and reflecting the sky calms my brain, even for a few minutes.

We needed water at this point, although Nancy was not a fan of filtering water from the lake. After we completed the process, we turned around and saw pit toilets and a water faucet. Duh.

From Horsethief Lake, we rejoined the CT as it crosses Hwy 244 at Big Pine Trailhead. From here it’s about 3.3 miles to Samelius Peak Trailhead. The guidebook describes this section as “an easy, quick hike to enjoy typical Black Hills scenery.” By now I was getting tired from carrying a loaded pack, but the terrain winding through open fields was pleasant.

Keeping an eye on trail markers directing us across Old Hill City-Keystone Road

Crossing the RR tracks for the 1880 Train, a tourist attraction between
Hill City and Keystone, SD 

What are the chances that we would encounter the 1880 Train? Pretty good – it runs hourly during the summer season. Nancy loves trains, so we stopped and waved. The tourists loved seeing hikers “in the wild!”

The local neighborhood watch

We heard cars as we walked along a gravel road and Highway 16 appeared. The CT passes underneath the roadway via a tunnel – hoping no critters are in residence!

Near the end of the tunnel is Samelius Peak Trailhead. The CT does not go over the summit; instead, the trail winds around the mountain on the west and north sides. Then the arduous work begins.

Our guidebook casually mentions that we’ll pass over “the highest elevation point of the Centennial Trail” and hints that the level of difficulty is “demanding.” In reality, after going around Samelius Peak, the trail goes over the summit of Mount Warner at 5,889 feet (not named on the maps we were using). Hikers consider this the toughest part of the CT, as in “why the heck didn’t somebody tell me about this part?” [Only later did I study more closely and put together how this section works.]

I pushed hard to get up Mount Warner, expecting at every turn to reach a high point where I would take a break. When I reached the rocky summit, Nancy was sitting pretty and enjoying the view of Black Elk Peak. She’d been there a while, so she moved on while I sat down to contemplate this crazy hiking obsession and the 10,000 other things I could be doing with my life.

Black Elk peak on the horizon

Our plan for tonight was to find a camping spot on the northeast side of Sheridan Lake, about 5 miles further to go. My energy was depleted and the hour was getting late. 

Sheridan Lake

As we descended towards the lake, the terrain was more moderate, but the mileage so far had gotten the best of me. Nancy listened to me sympathetically and posed a question: “Is it okay if I make some decisions for us right now?” Yes, ma’am.

She checked her maps for a closer camping alternative – maybe we could get a site at the campground on the south shore. We turned off the trail onto Calumet Road and began a l-o-n-g walk to the campground. Even on this gentle gravel road I was slow. When campsites appeared, Nancy told me to sit down at a picnic table, drink some water, and wait while she went to find the campground host.

Some minutes (hours? days?) later she returned with the good news that we had gotten the last available campsite – yay! Then the bad news – it’s a couple of miles away on the far side of the property – boo! Then more good news: the host offered to drive us to the site in the back of his pickup truck – double yay!

Smiling through the pain

The sun was sinking as we set up tents after this 12-hour day. I was too tired to boil water for a hot supper. (My appetite was back somewhere around Horsethief Lake.) I ate a Clif bar and some crackers as we looked over maps, formulating a plan for tomorrow.

In the few minutes before I fell asleep in my tent, I thought over how this day began and how it was ending. My attitude and my confidence had slipped significantly when the going got tough. Was it the weight of my new backpack? Not overloaded, but the fit was different than my old pack. Was it the distance – 18.4 miles? My original plan called for roughly 14 miles a day, and we had exceeded that every day so far. For sure my failure to eat properly was a factor. Still, the beauty of the Black Hills was….good night…

"You pick ‘em up, Lord, and I’ll put ‘em down.” 
    Anonymous Tired Hiker