Portugal: Cabo da Roca Hike in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park

Adventures in Portugal: Cabo da Roca Hike in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park
 3 miles – 2/24/22

If this were a full-blown travel blog, I’d have a lot to share about the epic nine days that Jim and I and our daughter Megan spent in Portugal. Since this is a hiking blog, I’ll just tell you about one day of wandering along the coast in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. [Sure do wish I had seen this website prior to our trip.] 

Cabo da Roca is a rugged, unspoiled headland known as the westernmost point of mainland Europe. It was first designated as a protected area in 1981 as part of what became Sintra-Cascais Natural Park in 1994.

A lighthouse was first built here in 1772 and the building standing today dates from 1842. The lighthouse is not open to the public and there is lots of fencing to prohibit visitors from walking on the edges of the crumbling granite and limestone cliffs. We can attest to the relentless winds that can blow you off your feet!

In my opinion, rather than closeups, the most dramatic views are of the lighthouse
 from a distance

Our “hike” was actually a ramble with no end point. Time made us turn around and head back to our car. Photos? Yes, please!

Caminho Atlantico, one of several long distance trails that pass through Sintra-Cascais
 Natural Park and continue along the coast

Paths intertwine across the headlands and it’s easy to follow the markers, but the side trails to viewpoints and the beaches were irresistible. Because of the openness of the land, it was easy to navigate just by sight.

One of my favorite photos of Jim

What is this fascinating foliage blanketing the ground with colorful, fleshy leaves that feel like aloe? This is the Hottentot plant, native of South Africa, invasive here on the Portuguese coast. Other names are sour fig and ice plant. Read all about Carpobrotus edulis here.

Hottentot bloom

Hottentot bloom

Praia da Aroeira (praia means “beach”)

Megan looking down at Praia da Aroeira - the path down to the sand was steep with small rocks
 (scree) so we skipped the slippery descent and enjoyed the view from the cliffs

The trail beckons

Praia da Ursa, another breathtaking wild beach, but again we stuck to the clifftops

After Praia da Ursa, we turned around and meandered back by a slightly different route. We passed a grove of small trees where some hardy folks had pitched tents in the merciless wind.

Nearing the lighthouse and civilization again, more and more people swarmed onto the cliff paths. As I often feel on trails near where I live, it’s good to see many people enjoying nature, but I was glad we were ahead of the crowd.

We spotted a guided hiking group across the way, ascending the trail like a row of ants

Our Airbnb home-away-from-home for the next two nights was in the small cliffside village of Azenhas do Mar. I’d stumbled upon it with no idea of its significant location – I just knew we would have a little ocean view with our wine and cheese (gifts from our hosts).

Our place is in the center of the photo, three black windows (OMG!)
We made a vow to return every year

Amazing Photo by Megan McCarthy

[Because you’re wondering “What else did they do in Portugal?” we flew into Lisbon, visited Evora, Coimbra, Nazare, Obidos, Azenhas do Mar, Sintra, ending with 2 nights in Lisbon. Mind blown!]

I feel sure I will pass this way again

“Wherever we want to go, we’ll go.”
 ~Captain Jack Sparrow