Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Linville Falls: Hike to Daffodil Flats

Linville Gorge: Hike to Daffodil Flats – 3/7/22 – 6 Miles

Research and navigation skills are essential when exploring Linville Gorge. This post is not intended to be a comprehensive guide to hiking to Daffodil Flats. Hike at your own risk!

Daffodil Flats, heard about it but had never been. Linville Gorge has kicked my butt enough times that I will only go with knowledgeable and trusted leaders. Fortunately, my hiking buddy Cathy volunteers with someone who knows it intimately as a trail and campsite maintainer.

The story goes that there’s an old homesite at the bottom of Linville Gorge (where the Linville River flows). Someone planted daffodils there and they have spread in joyful abundance. In early spring this patch of the Gorge is carpeted in yellow blooms.

On a promising spring morning, I rode with Cathy and her friend Julie along Kistler Memorial Highway on the western side of the Gorge. From the back seat, I can’t say how we got there, but we ended up at a connector trail to the Mountains-To-Sea Trail.

About a half-mile westbound, where the MST takes a sharp left, another trail continued straight – no signage, but experienced Linville Gorge hikers know it as the Lead Mine Trail. Well, on this day it was marked with pink flagging tape, extensively rehabbed within the last few weeks, a wondrous thing to behold.

Shortoff Mountain across the Gorge

Amazing skilled trail building

We rolled along this new Lead Mine Trail as it undulated in and out of coves on a fairly flat bench with moderate downhills – no more crazy up-and-down drainages. Its one steep section took us down to river level by an old home site, now an extensive camping area. At this point, Lead Mine Trail blends into Linville River Trail.

Although it doesn’t have the extensive steep ups and downs, Linville River Trail is not tame. The path is extremely rugged with roots and large rocks that will trip a hiker who takes her eyes off her feet. 

A mile upstream we reached the unmarked left turn to Daffodil Flats, its flashes of yellow visible through the tree trunks. The juxtaposition of simple domesticity in the rugged, raw Gorge is breathtaking.


Remains of a stacked stone fireplace, I think

I am not stepping on any daffodils in this photo

Only four other hikers were at the Flats when we arrived. We walked around quietly as if in a museum, talking softly and pointing and taking photos. Then…groups of people began streaming in so took our leave.

We walked a little further up Linville River Trail to check on some fire rings that Cathy and Julie had cleaned out and/or dismantled in the past couple of weeks.

On our return hike, those moderate downhills had turned into uphills, manageable at the right pace. Overall, our hike was just under 6 miles. A safe hike in great company and back home by 3pm.

“The earth laughs in flowers.”
 ~Ralph Waldo Emerson



Wednesday, February 8, 2023

Portugal: Cabo da Roca Hike in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park

Adventures in Portugal: Cabo da Roca Hike in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park
 3 miles – 2/24/22


If this were a full-blown travel blog, I’d have a lot to share about the epic nine days that Jim and I and our daughter Megan spent in Portugal. Since this is a hiking blog, I’ll just tell you about one day of wandering along the coast in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park[Sure do wish I had seen this website prior to our trip.] 

Cabo da Roca is a rugged, unspoiled headland known as the westernmost point of mainland Europe. It was first designated as a protected area in 1981 as part of what became Sintra-Cascais Natural Park in 1994.

A lighthouse was first built here in 1772 and the building standing today dates from 1842. The lighthouse is not open to the public and there is lots of fencing to prohibit visitors from walking on the edges of the crumbling granite and limestone cliffs. We can attest to the relentless winds that can blow you off your feet!

In my opinion, rather than closeups, the most dramatic views are of the lighthouse
 from a distance

Our “hike” was actually a ramble with no end point. Time made us turn around and head back to our car. Photos? Yes, please!

Caminho Atlantico, one of several long distance trails that pass through Sintra-Cascais
 Natural Park and continue along the coast

Paths intertwine across the headlands and it’s easy to follow the markers, but the side trails to viewpoints and the beaches were irresistible. Because of the openness of the land, it was easy to navigate just by sight.

One of my favorite photos of Jim

What is this fascinating foliage blanketing the ground with colorful, fleshy leaves that feel like aloe? This is the Hottentot plant, native of South Africa, invasive here on the Portuguese coast. Other names are sour fig and ice plant. Read all about Carpobrotus edulis here.

Hottentot bloom

Hottentot bloom

Praia da Aroeira (praia means “beach”)

Megan looking down at Praia da Aroeira - the path down to the sand was steep with small rocks
 (scree) so we skipped the slippery descent and enjoyed the view from the cliffs

The trail beckons

Praia da Ursa, another breathtaking wild beach, but again we stuck to the clifftops

After Praia da Ursa, we turned around and meandered back by a slightly different route. We passed a grove of small trees where some hardy folks had pitched tents in the merciless wind.

Nearing the lighthouse and civilization again, more and more people swarmed onto the cliff paths. As I often feel on trails near where I live, it’s good to see many people enjoying nature, but I was glad we were ahead of the crowd.

We spotted a guided hiking group across the way, ascending the trail like a row of ants

Our Airbnb home-away-from-home for the next two nights was in the small cliffside village of Azenhas do Mar. I’d stumbled upon it with no idea of its significant location – I just knew we would have a little ocean view with our wine and cheese (gifts from our hosts).


Our place is in the center of the photo, three black windows (OMG!)
We made a vow to return every year


Amazing Photo by Megan McCarthy

[Because you’re wondering “What else did they do in Portugal?” we flew into Lisbon, visited Evora, Coimbra, Nazare, Obidos, Azenhas do Mar, Sintra, ending with 2 nights in Lisbon. Mind blown!]

I feel sure I will pass this way again

“Wherever we want to go, we’ll go.”
 ~Captain Jack Sparrow