Pembrokeshire Coast Path - Day 13: Bosherton to Manorbier

Pembrokeshire Coast Path Day 13 – Bosherton to Manorbier - 8/15/19 

12.6 Miles – 2,550 ft. gain

  

I’m not gonna lie, that was the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had in a room above a bar. Breakfast on our timetable was only available via a tray left at our door - coffee, cereal, fruit, yogurt – and the challenge of eating in tight quarters as we were packing.

There are three ways to leave Bosherton on the P’shire. On this calm, clear Thursday morning, Danny and I followed the route around the Bosherton Lakes (also called the Lily Ponds) as a gentle segue back to the coast. The lakes are part of the Stackpole Estate, once owned by the Campbell family, Thanes of Cawdor in Scotland, and now part of the National Trust. The property includes the lakes, extensive grounds, gardens, woodlands, Stackpole Quay Harbour, and two beaches, all of which lies within Pembrokeshire National Park.

The Lily Ponds were my favorite part of Day 13 – Morning

Emerging from the wooded path to Broad Haven, one of the Stackpole Estate beaches, a signpost invited us to join the coast path, but which direction? Right on cue, a local out for his morning walk pointed the way.

Tranquility for an early morning standup paddleboarder

Barafundle Bay and its pristine beach, also part of the National Trust, are not accessible by road. A half-mile walk eastward along the cliffs leads to a car park and a café. Being early birds, we were an hour too early for the café (but toilets!)

We did not yet know that this would be our last day of glorious sunshine on the clifftops of Wales. The rocks and water and vegetation, the intensity of the colors was stunning. Looking forward along the path and stopping to look back where we had walked, the enormity of the experience was overwhelming even after 13 days.

Freshwater East

Stone walls lined the path down to the shops

The holy grail of coffee shops!

The P’shire doesn’t cross along the shore here. Instead, it weaves along sandy paths in the dunes above, mostly out of sight but occasionally peeking out at folks enjoying their holiday.

Goodbye, Freshwater East

On West Moor Cliff

High above Swanlake Bay, ubiquitous bovines were enjoying the endless salad bar and blissfully unaware of the nearby cliff’s severe erosion, which appeared to be recent and a bit unnerving where the path came within a yard or two of the edge.

Dayhikers were no longer a rarity, especially on such a spectacular day, but we were pleasantly surprised to meet a Pembrokeshire Coast Path ambassador out scouting a hike. She leads outings for mental health organizations and children’s groups.

When Manorbier Bay and its namesake village came into view, we checked the time. Maybe rather than ending there, we could continue for a few miles and then enter the village from the opposite side? We could shave a bit off tomorrow’s long day. With a rough plan in mind, we descended to the busy little beach. Such excitement! A Scouting group was hosting hands-on activities about caring for the sea and "improving people’s well-being." I chatted with the adults and so enjoyed watching the fun. My heart was warmed to see that children and Scouting programs are the same the world over.

Presipe Bay – we didn’t attempt the steep path down to the beach

Past Presipe Bay, the P’shire turned inland to bypass the Old Castle Head area formerly occupied by Manorbier Army Camp. Danny placed her fate in my hands as I more or less intuited the way towards town, across a field, down a lane, turn right here and here, until we popped out on the main road in the heart of Manorbier. From that point we followed Contour Holiday’s instructions to our accommodation in a charming neighborhood: Brynteg B&B.

Yes, those are the backyard gardens of our B&B!

A grander home awaited us – Manorbier Castle. Built on land granted to Odo de Barri, a Norman knight, at the end of the 11th century, in the early 12^th century the castle was fortified with a stone keep. It was attacked only twice in its history with minor damage, but fell into decay (alas, as castles tend to do). In 1880 it was partially restored. Manorbier Castle is privately owned, open for tours, and is a popular wedding venue.

Danny and I arrived late in the afternoon and had the place nearly to ourselves with amazingly unlimited access. We climbed up narrow spiral staircases, ducked our heads through low doorways, and inspected round tower rooms that held period furnishings. We stepped out onto the roof for a bird’s eye view. Signage was good and I didn’t at all miss having a guide to interpret.

It’s hard work touring a castle and I was ready for a meal. On the recommendation of our B&B host, we stopped at The Castle Inn for dinner. The experience made such an impression that I wrote notes about it later that night.

The Castle Inn had a chaotic atmosphere, mismatched tables with chairs and stools, noisy, lots of kids, lots of drinking. We commandeered a small table for two in the window of the front room that also held a piano being “played” by a rambunctious child. Ordered food at the bar, hoped we’d actually get it. At least a cider was put in my hand immediately. Danny asked about her favorite jacket potatoes and ordered a half pint of cider to join me.

As soon as we sat down at our cramped table, a couple sat down on short stools beside us, struck up a conversation, and stayed for dinner. Sean, 65, and Leslie, 60, from Bristol, England were celebrating their milestone birthdays by taking a trip every month for a year – Italy, Greece and Germany so far. I am now raising my bar for future birthday celebrations.

Leslie was sweet, earnest, dotes on their two small grandchildren. They live in a converted barn on a manor estate. She said they sleep on a low bed and wake up looking out the windows at the sky and trees and the horizon, smiling as she describes it. They both shared my philosophy that great things and people are right there in front of you if you recognize them.

Sean was a character from the get-go, seemed a little bit of a lush but very well-spoken, thoughtful, loved engaging in conversation. I didn’t learn his profession but he certainly had a creative bent. A rugged face, small frame – Mick Jagger’s younger brother? Sean seemed quite savvy about world politics. Like many Brits we’d met, he got on the subject of Donald Trump (of course), said he didn’t like him. [The woman at the next table, eavesdropping, leaned over and said she didn’t like him either.]

Our new friends were very impressed that we were hiking the whole Coast Path. Sean said he has bad legs and can’t walk well, but exclaimed how beautiful the cliffs were today. These two are lovebirds still, very genuine and affectionate.

Sean and Leslie were my favorite part of Day 13 – Evening

Cheers! Tomorrow is our big finish!

“I saw her today at the reception
A glass of wine in her hand
I knew she was going to meet her connection
At her feet was her footloose man
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes, you just might find
You get what you need.”

~Mick Jagger & Keith Richards
The Rolling Stones