Cumberland Island National Seashore – 2/17/18 – 16.2 Miles
Jim and I like to think of ourselves as experienced campers,
but this trip to Cumberland Island got the better of us both. We were testing Cathy’s Big Agnes Fly Creek HV2 tent, a tight fit for two real people with
the single exit at the head end and a tapered foot end. Believe me, two
inflated sleeping pads, sleeping bags, odds and ends, and two people trying to
maneuver is a test. Jim realized too late that he had brought the sleeping pad
that has a slow leak (meant to fix that…) and so spent the night repeatedly
blowing up said pad whilst sitting on it.
Then morning came.
Breakfast, packed up, a little (a lot) short on sleep but anticipating an easy day on flat ground, we headed north on the Parallel Trail, a long straight tunnel beneath twisted live oaks and ethereal Spanish moss. (Thanks to Mike for sharing photos.)
Breakfast, packed up, a little (a lot) short on sleep but anticipating an easy day on flat ground, we headed north on the Parallel Trail, a long straight tunnel beneath twisted live oaks and ethereal Spanish moss. (Thanks to Mike for sharing photos.)
The little brochure map from the Visitor Center doesn’t
include every feature “on the ground” so we puzzled over a few intersections
that proved to be roads to private residences.
(Yes, there are still Carnegie descendants living on Cumberland Island.
Eventually when they are all gone the land will become fully owned by the
National Parks Service.)
Another backcountry site almost dead center of the island, no beach, no view. Not sure why anyone would stay
here unless it was the only place left to reserve. Which is a good reason.
It’s about 7.5 miles north by car to Plum Orchard Mansion,
on the western side of the island overlooking the expansive sea marsh. As I mentioned earlier, Lucy Carnegie gave
all of the Carnegie children homes on the island when they married (if they
chose) and Plum Orchard was the first, built in 1898 for her son George and his
new bride Margaret Thaw. The intriguing
story of Plum Orchard’s occupants through the years is worthy of a Downton
Abbey season – read all about it here.
We walked around the exterior of the mansion and settled at a
picnic table to eat lunch on the side lawn while waiting for a tour of the
inside.
Free tours of the mansion are given every hour except noon,
beginning at 9:00 a.m. and ending with the 3:00 time slot. The tours last 45 minutes. Our visit was
facilitated by a woman with Volunteers-In-Parks. She and other volunteers live in the house and
take turns giving tours. We went up and down the main stairs, in and out of
secret passages used only by servants (white or black knobs determined which
servants were allowed to go through which doors) and wandered through the
expansive basement learning how the house was heated and cooled. In my experience, NPS tours are always worthwhile and this one was first rate.
I asked the facilitator about the wild ponies on the island,
the subject of much controversy. She
made a point of taking off her Volunteer-In-Parks role and donning her advocacy
role, explaining that there is no such thing as a wild pony (they are feral)
and that the living conditions of the island are unsuitable for them – in
fact, they suffer. The public, however, has
a romantic view of horses galloping along the beach and the outcry is severe
when talk of reducing the herd is brought up.
She was very compassionate and very compelling in her knowledge of the
horses.
We left Plum Orchard behind and headed to Table Point, featured
on the map so it must be worth a look, eh? Well…we wandered around the circular
path looking for the Point (is it low tide?) but all we found was this concrete
block.
From Table Point we made some tricky turns to get to the
main road (really, why are there so many trails right in this area? Is it because of the proximity to Plum Orchard
(and other Carnegie houses? If you visit the island, please ask a ranger about
this.)
The day had warmed up and the bugs that were supposed to be
asleep at this time of year were awake, alert and ready for a snack. As long as we kept moving we were okay, but
stopping for any reason attracted a swarm.
The bug spray Jim had grabbed may have repelled the first million or so.
Our mileage for the day was ticking up and we were ready to get to camp at Brickhill
Bluff, but the no-see-um situation was a concern.
We came across a tent bag lying on the side of the road but
didn’t pick it up; it might belong to someone going in our direction or the
opposite direction. Poor guy, he’s gonna kick himself when he realizes it’s
gone. (Later we met Boy Scouts at our
campsite who realized they were missing a tent.
The aforementioned poor guy had to walk back more than a mile to get it.)
Brickhill Bluff is a primitive site on the edge of Brickhill
River (which flows into Cumberland River).
There’s plenty of room for multiple groups to spread out, so don’t stop
at the first flat spot you see. We dropped
our gear and spent some time looking around to get some distance away from the Boy
Scouts and other folks. The limiting
issue for the number of campers, however, isn’t space but fresh water: the site has one hand pump. (You still must
treat the water.) No one wants to haul water for 10 miles from Sea Camp, so it
is a blessing to have a pump at all, but that baby gets a lot of use. If it breaks, you’re out of luck.
Pumping and collecting water using both hands means you have
no defense against the no-see-ums, which numbered in the gazillions at this point. Cathy and Mike have nerves of steel (screaming
helped).
We set up tents near the bluff’s edge, but sitting down to
relax undisturbed was not possible. Boiling
water to hydrate a meal that I was too tired to eat (and couldn’t get a
mouthful without bugs in it), I was ready to call it quits for the day. Somehow
we had managed to walk 16 miles on this little island (flat but with loaded
backpacks). Mike and Cathy came around with the deck of cards and I was already
in my sleeping bag.
The bright spot (literally) - we were rewarded with a glorious
sunset in a remote and wild place where few people venture. When the sky faded
from blue to deep purple, the strip of land with its orange outline, and the trees
turned black in silhouette, I recalled that a good friend used to say, “You gotta
take the bitter with the better.”
“When the sun is setting, leave whatever you are
doing and watch it.” ~Mehmet Murat Ildan
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