Wilson Creek – 9/13/14 – 9 Miles
Wilson Creek is a designated Wild and Scenic River in North Carolina east of Linville
Gorge Wilderness, well known to its weekend locals but not so much to the rest
of us. I was first introduced to the
area while hiking the Mountains-To-Sea Trail.
In local parlance, the phrase “Wilson Creek” encompasses more than just
the creek. The area lies mostly within Pisgah
National Forest, beginning with the creek’s headwaters at Grandfather Mountain
and moving southward to include the Lost Cove and Harper Creek Wilderness study
areas and Brown Mountain to Johns River.
I think of Wilson Creek as a state of mind: a little mysterious with few trail signs, the
occasional trail that isn’t on the map, lots of water, numerous gravel forest
roads, and a backcountry feeling because of the freedom to camp almost anywhere
(except within 500 feet of Wilson Creek itself because of the Wild & Scenic
designation). To me what makes Wilson
Creek so special is (you guessed it) water:
swimming holes, waterfalls and lots of creek crossings without
bridges. Rock hopping is rare as most
crossings range from ankle to hip deep.
Cathy posted this hike opportunity on the Carolina Berg Wanderers website but the rain forecast caused several people to bail out. How many times have we said don’t base your outdoor life on the weatherman? Five of us met the challenge: Chris, Cathy, me, Mike and Becky. Driving to the trailhead via Highway 181, it was impossible to ignore the thick fog, but we broke through onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and saw promising patches of blue sky. We enjoyed a beautiful, fun-filled day.
Cathy posted this hike opportunity on the Carolina Berg Wanderers website but the rain forecast caused several people to bail out. How many times have we said don’t base your outdoor life on the weatherman? Five of us met the challenge: Chris, Cathy, me, Mike and Becky. Driving to the trailhead via Highway 181, it was impossible to ignore the thick fog, but we broke through onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and saw promising patches of blue sky. We enjoyed a beautiful, fun-filled day.
Okay, we never actually saw the real Wilson Creek. Our plan was to hike the Lost Cove Trail loop
counterclockwise, criss-crossing Lost Cove Creek and Gragg Prong. We began at the Roseborough Road trailhead
after a few miles of teeth-jarring bumpery on the gravel road. Plenty of cars already there so I expected to
see some weekend campers.
We started off with Mike’s GPS track, immediately got off-kilter because of a couple of extra approach shortcuts and had to consult my paper map (I’m the only one who brought one). Are we on Lost Cove Trail or Timber Ridge Trail? Let’s say Lost Cove.
We started off with Mike’s GPS track, immediately got off-kilter because of a couple of extra approach shortcuts and had to consult my paper map (I’m the only one who brought one). Are we on Lost Cove Trail or Timber Ridge Trail? Let’s say Lost Cove.
Do you prefer your big climbs at the beginning of a hike
rather than at the end? I know I
do. We faced a steep calf- stretching climb
right away, no switchbacks, up, up, up.
A trail coming in from the left was apparently Timber Ridge Trail. A little more climbing to the gap at Bee
Mountain, then an abrupt left turn onto Lost Cove Trail and we lost all we had
gained on a big downhill.
At the confluence of Little Lost Cove Creek and Lost Cove
Creek. The rushing water was l-o-u-d. Recent rains had increased the water level
significantly. What were we going to
find ahead?
Another clue: the trail was pretty sloshy in places
Looks like Becky got it figured out.
At the second run, I noticed that Becky, Cathy and Mike kept
going while Chris and I were still crossing, so I requested that after that
everyone wait until all were safely out of the water. If the last person slips and falls, someone
needs to be there to help. No one would
hear yelling over the noise of the creek.
Following the creek gently downhill made for laid back hiking but
the crossings became increasingly challenging.
Near the top of Hunt Fish Falls, there was no obvious good place to
cross. Everyone spread out to scout it, and
the next thing I knew, Mike was attempting to cross in thigh-high swift current. I watched him - not much I could do but at
least see if he is okay. He slipped and got
a good dunking but quickly regained his footing. The look in his eyes said he learned a lesson
about fast moving water. He made it
across, but the rest of us crossed at another point. I never really felt like we found the
intended entry point because the water was so high.
Soon after that we reached Hunt Fish Falls and our first
encounter with other hikers. At the base
of the first falls is an enormous rock pool perfect for swimming or
wading. Another short waterfall leads to
another large pool – room for everyone! Plenty
of rock surface for sunbathing too. At
this point the Mountains-To-Sea Trail intersects and then runs eastward concurrently
with Lost Cove Trail.
Relaxing at Hunt Fish Falls, Cathy and Chris and I each had
our photos taken sitting beside the falls, a photo op worthy of the family
calendar.
After I took Chris’s photo, she began scooting to the edge
and her phone slipped out of her pocket and fell into the water - a sick
feeling for anyone. Cathy and Becky tried
to find it in butt-deep water but no luck.
After eating lunch we resumed our hike, passing a number of
campsites along the creek edge. After crossing
Lost Cove Creek a couple more times (getting deeper) and passing the left turn
onto Timber Ridge Trail, we reached the confluence of Lost Cove Creek and Gragg
Prong. Here the MST curved leftward and
began following Gragg Prong uphill – yes, that means climbing again, which I
had forgotten about from my MST hiking days, but this was not as serious as our
initial uphill.
Gragg Prong is a lovely mountain creek and the MST is rugged as it follows along its edge. In several places the trail was very narrow and the drop to the creek was dramatic. Gragg Prong Falls is a series of cascades that can be accessed from several scramble points. Cathy had also hiked this trail previously and we both were looking for pools that we remembered…but the water volume was so high that the pools were indistinguishable in the fast-flowing stream.
Gragg Prong Falls
The last serious negotiation of Gragg Prong, then the crossings
became gentler. The water was not cold
and felt refreshing when we weren’t worried about getting hurt.
We passed numerous creekside campsites in the last mile,
very tempting, but I know the area is heavily used by weekend car campers with
coolers and camp chairs and I prefer more solitude. Here are Becky and Cathy at the last crossing
with the MST white circle blaze. The MST
crosses the parking area and continues on upward to the Blue Ridge Parkway and around
the lower regions of Grandfather Mountain as part of the Tanawah Trail. Another day, perhaps.
As we enjoyed the traditional après-hike Mexican dinner that
evening we all agreed that if we had known the high water conditions we
probably would not have done the hike and we were glad that the people who canceled
had not come along. It was very good
training for Chris, but more people means more potential for injury. I guess Wilson Creek is one place where you
really should pay attention to the weatherman…
“Water is the driving force of all nature.” ~Leonardo da
Vinci
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