Adventures in Peru – 6/8/14 & 6/9/14 – Cusco and
Sacsayhuaman
I have been on some incredible hiking adventures over the
past several years, and on those trips we talk, talk, talk about future
adventures. If you’re sitting around the
campfire or the dinner table at the right time, wondrous opportunities present
themselves.
Hey, whaddaya think about hiking to Machu Picchu? You know, that place in Peru? Sure, sign me up!
Our group of four – Andy, Chris, Cathy and myself - made
plans for early June, flights, hotel reservations, booking a guided Inca Trek
(you don’t just go there and start walking, it is all strictly regulated by the
Peruvian government) and side trips for another week. The countdown began.
In May I got serious about training. Running, walking, hiking, Stairmaster,
etc. Of course, nothing can train for
high altitude lack of oxygen and I knew I wasn’t good at that (remember Colorado?) Got the prescription for Diamox and all my
immunizations were current.
Two days before departure it all slid sideways. A serious health issue arose in a family member
that took all my mental attention. Then
I developed diverticulitis (inflammation of the intestine), got antibiotics from my doctor, who
didn’t think going to Peru was a good idea. There was a problem with my smart phone and I
couldn’t have global service, no phone calls to keep up with the situation at
home. Taken all together, karma did not
want me going to Peru. But I went
anyway.
I began taking the Diamox the day before departure and all
during the flight I felt as though strands of hair were brushing my cheeks, but
it was a tingling side effect of the medication. Other side effects I experienced were extreme
dry mouth and loss of appetite. All
would get worse as the days went on. The
alternative was headache and nausea. None
of it was fun.
After 13 hours on 3 flights we arrived in Cusco, Peru in the
early morning. Passing over the sharp
snow- covered peaks of the Andes felt surreal.
One crazy cab ride later we rang the doorbell at Casa Elena,
our accommo- dations for the next two days. Casa Elena is very conveniently located in
the San Blas quarter known for its arts culture and is just a couple of blocks
from the Plaza de Armas, the main square in Cusco.
The owner served us coca tea upon arrival, the traditional drink to help
acclimate to the altitude (Cusco is at 11,150 feet).
After a brief lie-down, we hit the streets in search of food
and sight-seeing. We had been warned
what to eat during our acclimatization before our Inca Trek (bland food,
potatoes) and what not to eat (guinea pig, a Peruvian favorite). No problem with the guinea pig, but I would
like to try it later in the trip.
Cusco is an intriguing small city, population about 450,000,
modern and ancient cultures evident in architecture, food and clothing of
people mingling in the streets. Walking
around the center city is fun if you have a little sense of direction yet are
willing to get a little lost. The Plaza
de Armas is the happening heart of historic Cusco.
Iglesia de La Compañia de Jesús at the Plaza de Armas
A big multi-day parade was going on in celebration of Corpus
Christi.
After a meal in a safe-looking touristy hotel we admitted to
our jet lag and went back to Casa Elena to crash for a couple of hours. Later on we ventured out for another meal at
Cicciolina, delicious food, elegant yet laid back atmosphere. In Peruvian culture they do not bring you the
bill for the meal unless you ask for it several times.
After a hard night’s sleep under heavy blankets aided by Tylenol
PM and ear plugs, we rose early and tackled the hotel breakfast: liquidy yogurt, granola, fried eggs cooked to
order, thick papaya juice, fresh pineapple juice, sweet coffee cake.
Today’s plan: climb
the hills above Cusco to explore the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman and get up
close and personal with Cristo Blanco.
These are two independent and vastly different cultural icons of
Peru. [And before you critique my spelling of Sacsayhuaman, we saw it spelled a myriad of ways and I chose one I could remember, even if it doesn't match the signage here.] For a much better history lesson
than I can give, see here. In the
briefest summary, the Inca people or Quechuas were doing just fine in central South
America until the conquering Spanish came across the water in the early 1500’s,
decimating the native culture, razing their religious structures and
introducing/ imposing Catholicism. The
capital of modern Peru is the city of Lima, but Cusco was the capital of the
Inca empire. Sacsayhuaman is an amazing
remnant of that culture.
The journey started right outside our door, of course going
up many steps.
The one time I paid for an “authentic” photo. This lovely native Peruvian woman was less
than five feet tall. She charged one
Peruvian Nuevo sol, which equals about 35 cents in American currency.
Llamas roam freely around Inca ruins as part of the
grounds- keeping staff. Andy didn’t charge me for this photo.
First we hiked up to the Cristo Blanco (White Jesus)
statue. The story I found goes that it
was erected as a display of gratitude by a group of Christian Palestinians who
sought refuge in Cusco in 1945. The
statue is 8 meters tall but seems much larger.
Its proximity to Sacsayhuaman and yet its position slightly higher and
turning away – symbolic of what?
Cristo Blanco
Looking down at Cusco from the base of the statue
Looking over at Sacsayhuaman from the base of the statue
An example of dry stone wall Incan architecture. The ancient builders did not have the concept
of the wheel to help move the heavy stones and they did not use mortar to bind
them in place. They cut notches in
corners and shaped stones to fit together so tightly that a blade of grass or piece
of paper cannot slide between them.
During an earthquake the walls could shift and resettle without
collapsing.
We spent several hours wandering around Sacsayhuaman, not
really understanding the details of the history, but enjoying the sunshine and
the energy and learning to breathe at 12,000 feet.
Looking across the great plaza, a gathering space for
thousands of people for ceremonial activities
Sacsayhuaman
An intact building with a reconstructed thatched roof. After the siege of Cusco in the 1530’s, the
Spanish used the site as a quarry for stones for building Spanish Cusco,
and within a few years Sacsayhuaman was largely demolished.
A hint of steps to come
Llamas on the move
Looking at Cristo Blanco from Sacsayhuaman
Exploring tunnels
Nooks and crannies
Another wrong decision, easily corrected: I had bought a new non-toxic, eco-friendly sun
screen for the trip, and during our walkabout of Sacsayhuaman I got fried even
with multiple applications. Later in the
day at a local pharmacy I found something better (friendly to me if not the environment)
and had no more problems with the sun.
At such high elevation, don’t take any chances on sun exposure.
Walking back down to town was SO much easier! Intricacies of red slate rooftops
We ran into some fellow Virginia Tech Hokies – boy, did I
cheer up at that! Turns out they were
here to do the same four-day hike to Machu Picchu (different outfitter) and we
saw them in the coming days on the Inca Trail.
Back in town, we ate a delicious lunch at Limo, recommended
by friends – heavenly mint lemonade
We explored the Mercado de San Pedro that the locals use
(not the touristy one), fascinated by the fresh food, meats, lack of
refrigeration. My photo taking was surreptitious because I didn't know if I would be asked to pay for them.
A juice bar like you’ve never seen
Beans and spices and herbs – oh my!
Local fruits
We wandered on a circuitous route through the city,
following Cathy as she hunted for a good deal on an Alpaca jacket (she found
one eventually), then back to Casa Elena to rest some more and meet with a
representative for our trek to begin tomorrow.
For dinner we found a place nearby called Justina’s, tucked away in a
courtyard, kitchen downstairs just large enough for a wood-fired pizza oven and
five tables upstairs and – surprise - bluegrass music and Southern rock on the
sound system. One of many surreal
moments in Peru, eating excellent pizza and listening to Little Feat’s “Dixie
Chicken” and Ralph Stanley’s “Man Of Constant Sorrow.”
Okay, now for the serious trip preparation.
Part of our guided expedition included porters who would
carry all the food, everything for food prep, and our tents for sleeping. Each participant was responsible for his/her
own sleeping bag and mat, clothing and personal items. [Note if you are planning
a Machu Picchu trek: the mats were
provided by the outfitter, wished I had brought my own which is smaller and
weighs less]. What will I need for 4
days, 3 nights, with highs in the 70’s and nighttime lows in the 30’s? I had my 15-degree down sleeping bag and a
silk liner, chose my heavier fleece jacket and Primaloft jacket, long underwear
top and bottom, one pair of hiking pants, gloves, hat, a couple of
short-sleeved hiking shirts, a new little inflatable pillow, a book, head lamp,
toiletries, multiple medications, camera, bandana, a bathing suit for the hot
springs at the end (more on that later).
Another wrong decision: I chose
to carry water bottles rather than my Camelback, thinking I would keep better
track of my water intake if I could see it.
While that was true, it was a much bigger pain to use them and I
probably underhydrated because of the aggravation factor.
Packing, repacking, taking things out, putting things back
in, the normal chaos before an extended backpacking trip. My pack was not as light as I wanted,
probably 18 pounds with full water bottles.
I was able to text back and forth with Jim at the hotel,
nervous and preoccupied about things back home.
Cathy kindly let me use her global ready phone for a couple of
calls. My normal pre-hike anxiety was
increased exponentially and I went to bed with racing thoughts and waited for
the alarm to go off at 4:30 a.m.
Are we having fun yet?
Are we having fun yet?
“Take a walk outside – it will serve you far more than pacing around in your mind.” ~Rasheed Ogunlaru
1 comment:
I know you made the trip but I'm enjoying the prehike description. A trip I'll probably never make but what great fun to read about it.
Danny
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