Appalachian Trail, White Mountains, NH – 8/18/12 – Nauman
Campsite to Lake of the Clouds Hut – 5 Miles (5 hours)
The slight drizzle during the night tapered off quickly and
we woke to a foggy morning. I rested
hard but a little too warm, didn’t need the 15-degree sleeping bag zipped
up. Judy repacked her gear and improved
her pack stability. (She even poured out
half of her brandy to reduce weight!) We
were on the trail by 7:40 a.m., carrying a little anxiety for what the day
would hold. The dilemma we faced was
whether to stop at Lake of the Clouds Hut (5 miles) or continue up and over Mount
Washington and on to the next legal camping spot (9.6 trail miles plus a 1-mile
detour off the trail to the campsite = 10.6 miles). Unless the hiking was significantly less
complicated than yesterday, there’s no way we were going to make it 10+ miles.
We knew that the trail would continue to trend upwards, and
immediately past Mizpah Spring Hut we met a half-mile steep climb, more rock
walls and even a ladder. Okay, say it
with me again: We can do this.
As we climbed higher, the trees became shorter and boards
helped us stay on the trail in the fragile ecosystem.
Rocks line the trail to guide hikers
We were now on the Crawford Path, the oldest continuously
maintained hiking trail in the United States.
Say hello to Mount Pierce (aka Mount Clinton, but don’t ask
me why).
There were lots of people out this morning, most having
spent the night at Mizpah Spring Hut and hiking on to Lake of the Clouds Hut. Tall rock cairns now appeared regularly as we
emerged above tree line, and you can see in the fog why they are so necessary.
One group that we leapfrogged for a while consisted of four
teenage girls and five adults with daypacks.
The girls were playing some type of memory word game, very loud, not
really paying attention to their surroundings.
At a sleepover this would have been normal, but not what I wanted to
hear in this glorious outdoor setting.
They were faster than us, but stopped frequently. We would let them pass, then catch up and
pass them as they took many rest breaks.
We lost them once when they took the side trail over Mount Eisenhower
(the AT skirts around this mountain), but darned if they didn’t catch us
again. Fortunately they planned to
continue past Mount Washington today, so they finally hiked on into oblivion.
I don’t know the rhyme or reason for the AT route through
this area called the Presidentials. The
trail goes over some peaks and skirts around others. If you’re a thru-hiker the choice is obvious,
but for peakbaggers it’s a dream: forget the AT and hit all the summits.
As the morning progressed the clouds played hide and seek. This is one of my favorite
photos of the entire trip: Judy and
Mount Eisenhower.
Going around Mount Eisenhower.
People going up and down to the Eisenhower summit
Five minutes later, clouds rolling over Eisenhower
Looking back at Mount Eisenhower. The wide open terrain reminded
me of hiking in Switzerland and the views (when the clouds cooperated) seemed
endless.
We passed a father with his three young boys, ages 8, 6 and
4. The two older ones wore their own
daypacks and carried their own little hiking poles. The 4-year-old scampered around like one of
Heidi’s goats. They were on a multi-day
hut-to-hut trip. I have never seen
anything like that in North Carolina.
Everyone we met during our White Mountains adventure seemed well
outfitted with proper footwear and gear, none of this stepping out of the car
in flip-flops and walking 100 feet up the trail (granted, we were up at the
summits that are a challenge to reach).
As for fitness, I felt like I was the “fat” person on the trails.
The AT led us over Mount Franklin and then we caught our
first glimpse of Mount Washington (home of communication towers). At 6,288 feet, Mount Washington is the
highest peak in the northeastern United States and, of course, the New
Hampshire state high point.
At last Lake of the Clouds Hut came into view, but look at
the cloud cover. What was the weather going to do the rest of the day? It was 12:30 p.m.
The five miles to LOTC was easier than
yesterday, but still strenuous, some rock surfing and slow, tedious
hiking. It took us 5 hours to go 5
miles. There was no guarantee that the
next 5 miles to the next stop would be easier, plus we would have to hurry over
Mount Washington without stopping to relax (and, yes, enjoy food at the snack
bar). Ultimately, although it seemed
quite early, we decided to stay at Lake of the Clouds. We resolved ourselves to enjoy the afternoon
as a gift of time.
We threw ourselves on the mercy of Emma, the staff person in
charge, and asked to stay in the “hiker dungeon.” She said that was intended as emergency
shelter for late arriving hikers and they didn’t usually start accepting people
until after 3:00 p.m., but when I told her I’d sit and wait until 3:00 p.m. and
ask her again, she relented and signed us in.
The cost is $10 per person and for another $10 you can buy dinner. Since we had lugged our food this far, we
opted to cook our own dinner.
The hiker dungeon is downstairs underneath the dining
room. It looks like it used to be
storage.
Home sweet home
Judy and I took seats on benches in the dining room and ate
lunch with a view of Mount Washington out the window, in and out of
clouds. It looked so close (only 1.4
miles) yet so unattainable today.
The dining room
After resting a bit and eating and inspecting the facilities
(composting toilets and treated water), we decided to climb the mountain next
door that the AT had skirted around, Mount Monroe, as a consolation (thus we
bagged another 4,000-footer). Again,
loads of people plus some well-behaved dogs were going up and down this
mountain.
On the summit of Mount Monroe
Looking down at Lake of the Clouds Hut - Mount Washington totally obscured by clouds
Judy seemed to be doing okay on today’s hike, not as
treacherous as yesterday, and she wanted to do a little more hiking. I was happy to just return to LOTC, so she
descended down the far side of Mount Monroe and circled back on the AT. A little down time was good for both of us
and I was glad to see her enjoying herself.
(Side note: when she got back to
LOTC she reported that the descent was rocky and unstable and never to let her
do that again – haha). I noticed that
in talking with people she complained about the difficulty of the rocks and
that she no longer wanted to finish her goal of section hiking the entire AT
because there was more of this terrain ahead and she felt it was too dangerous.
I empathized greatly with her because I hated crossing snow fields in the Grand Tetons and never got comfortable with it. It is my fervent hope that with a little time for contemplation she will
renew her goal. And I remember that after summiting Mount Whitney I was sure I never wanted to do anything remotely as
strenuous ever again – and yet here I was in the White Mountains, which felt a lot like Whitney but
with oxygen. In the meantime, during our
NH adventure I tried to be vocal that although we ain't in Kansas anymore (i.e. different terrain than back home) I was having a different experience and felt okay with it.
Back at the LOTC hut I sat outside on a bench and struck up
conversations with fellow hut guests.
Most were surprised to hear about the hiker dungeon accommodations. When Judy returned, we chatted with a man
who, upon hearing we were from North Carolina, told us about a hiker friend of
his in Tennessee that he had originally met at the New Hampshire huts. He’s been to Tennessee to visit and has hiked
a little bit in the Smokies. Then he
described to me a great guide book he picked up there, saying he would likely
never get to do any hikes from the book but felt it was so well written that he
bought it to read for fun. Had I ever
heard of an author named Danny Bernstein?
Small world again.
One gregarious fellow we chatted with several times went by
the trail name of T-Bone. He has hiked
all around the White Mountains for many years.
We told him our trail names were Heartfire and Smoky Scout, and from
then on he called us “Heart Throb” and “Smoky Princess.” If you like socializing at the end of the
day, try hiking in the White Mountains.
Judy and I got out stoves and our backpacker meals and
cooked near the benches at the front door.
My cuisine is made by Mountain House but Judy dehydrates her own meals. Then
we enjoyed another brandy toast for Day 2.
Hut staff prepared a turkey dinner
complete with homemade bread. Yeah, my
Mountain House pasta primavera tasted dee-lish.
After eating, I sat inside and looked through the hut’s
guest books (they have all of them dating back to when the huts first opened –
you can go back and find what you wrote in 1974). The staff made a big display of introducing
themselves and explaining how the hut works, and it was apparent that these
staff jobs are valued and much sought after.
It felt like being at summer camp.
Outside, Judy was talking with some young thru-hikers who were doing
work-for-stay (in exchange for cleaning up after dinner and breakfast they
would be allowed to sleep in the dining room for free). One of the thru-hikers, a young law student named Blind Faith,
would be sleeping in the dungeon with us. Judy came in to tell me that the sunset was looking spectacular and I
joined her outside.
The other hut guests drifted outside to see the sunset, too,
and it was breathtaking.
Smoky Scout at sunset
Judy’s sunset photo
Then the guests went back inside to play cards and board
games in the dining room, and after hanging around a short time we headed to
our basement bunker directly beneath the action. Loud voices and thumping around couldn’t
compete with my state of exhaustion plus ear plugs and I fell asleep soon. Sometime during the night Blind Faith crept
quietly into his bunk above me. And at
1:00 a.m. I went outside for a bathroom break and was nearly knocked down by
the stars. I felt like I could reach out
and grab the handle of the Big Dipper.
When I admire the wonders of a sunset or
the beauty of the moon, my soul expands in the worship of the creator. ~Mahatma Ghandi
3 comments:
You got some nice photos of your trek. I especially like the sunset shots. What a grand adventure!
Judy's sunset shots were vastly superior to mine. I have to admit, we were so focused on arriving intact that I never thought about "gee, I hope we have a good sunset." What a bonus!
So enjoyed reading your blog! I arrived by clicking thru some photos on Bing. Great place to land!
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