Smokies SB6K Backpack Trip – Day 3 – 6/10/12 – AT/Snake Den
Ridge Trail – 13.1 Miles
Through the night I dozed and listened, quiet except for a raucous
chorus of frogs in the wee hours. Rain
was predicted the day before but it avoided us.
According to Jeff, rain was again predicted for today beginning at 7:00
a.m. But rain or shine, this was our
last day and I could handle whatever came.
By 7:00 a.m. we were packing up and still dry.
Raindrops began to whisper on the shelter roof at 7:30
a.m. Ah well…
Suited up for a wet day – two SB6K summits to go.
Despite the clouds, we still had a view and some rhodos
blooming on the AT
An old granddaddy rhododendron bush covered in glowing lichen
From time to time I am asked which trail in the Great Smoky
Mountains is my favorite, and my standard answer is that I have some favorite
days hiking there due to a combination of the trail, the weather, my fellow hikers
(or solo), and the events on that hike. But…it’s
hard to downplay the uniqueness of the Appalachian Trail following the
ridgeline of the Smokies. Every step of
it is infused with magic if you open yourself up. North
Carolina drops down over one shoulder and Tennessee drops down over the other. Impressions of tens (hundreds?) of thousands
of footsteps are underneath your feet, of humans on a soul-searching walk or
animals looking for lunch. The
2-by-6-inch white rectangles painted on the trees are the same as the ones in
Maryland and in Maine. So whether the
sun is shining or the rain is dripping, the AT through the Smokies is a special
place to be.
Rain gear doesn’t really keep you dry when it’s above 50 degrees, because you sweat inside with the exertion of hiking. But it makes you think you’re staying dry. And today it served another purpose: protecting us from more scratches and scrapes during our bushwhacking. The rain tapered off but the woods were saturated as we began our next-to-last and most difficult SB6K summit, Mt. Guyot on the AT. Jeff’s memory of Mt. Guyot was accurate: a terrible, awful, no-good, very bad bushwhack. The half-mile slog uphill took us a solid hour. Even with Jeff’s GPS track, we tried and abandoned a couple of routes near the summit because of additional deadfall since his last visit. The blackberry briars grew way overhead and we spent a lot of time stomping a path through (which helped a lot on the return, only a half hour).
Rain gear doesn’t really keep you dry when it’s above 50 degrees, because you sweat inside with the exertion of hiking. But it makes you think you’re staying dry. And today it served another purpose: protecting us from more scratches and scrapes during our bushwhacking. The rain tapered off but the woods were saturated as we began our next-to-last and most difficult SB6K summit, Mt. Guyot on the AT. Jeff’s memory of Mt. Guyot was accurate: a terrible, awful, no-good, very bad bushwhack. The half-mile slog uphill took us a solid hour. Even with Jeff’s GPS track, we tried and abandoned a couple of routes near the summit because of additional deadfall since his last visit. The blackberry briars grew way overhead and we spent a lot of time stomping a path through (which helped a lot on the return, only a half hour).
Slimy snails were everywhere, a bumper crop, and they seemed
to bother me much more than the thought of gigantic rattlesnakes. Grabbing onto tree trunks and branches, a few
times I squished a little fellow and shrieked, doing a little dance of disgust
as I wiped my hand on my rain pants.
YUCK.
The summit of Mt. Guyot at last. Yes, this is worth it.
The final summit of Old Black was also difficult but much
shorter, a .4-mile roundtrip. A bit
anti- climactic after Mt. Guyot, but a triumph nevertheless. Now all we had to do was walk to my car –
about two miles on the AT and then 5 miles down Snake Den Ridge Trail. Downhill sounded great, but I knew that by trail’s
end my thighs would be shaking and my knees would be aching. But hey, I just finished bagging seven
off-trail peaks in the Smokies! I felt
great.
Continuing northbound on the AT past Old Black, we kept our
eyes peeled for the remains of an F-4 Phantom fighter plane that crashed into
the ridge near Inadu Knob in 1984.
Fragments from the wreck are scattered around the area close to the AT
intersection with Snake Den Ridge Trail.
I had not seen this the last time I was here. I don’t know how I missed it then, but it is
very obvious just off the trail to the right.
Jeff guessed that some of the pieces had been collected together at this
spot.
We turned left onto Snake Den Ridge Trail and began our long
descent. At the next intersection we
split up. Jeff turned onto Maddron Bald
Trail so he could get in some new miles and also check out the Albright Grove Loop,
a .7-mile side trail through rare old growth hardwood forest. I continued on down Snake Den Ridge.
The smoky view from Snake Den Ridge Trail
Galax blooms lining the trail
Something big was digging around here not long ago
Can never have too many photos of rhododendron up close
Crossing Inadu Creek on Snake Den Ridge Trail, I met a
fellow here who had backpacked in overnight carrying a huge camera and tripod
Alternate-leaved dogwood
Fun fungi
A half-mile from the end of Snake Den Ridge Trail is the Williamson Cemetery. Most of the graves date from the early 1900’s, but noteworthy is a marker dated 1982 for Ella V. Costner, a World War II POW and Poet Laureate of the Smokies.
The day was not over when I arrived at the trailhead. I walked through the Cosby Campground to the
hiker parking area and saw my precious Honda Pilot waiting where Daniel and
Mike had left it, along with a note of their whereabouts today. Turns out they were walking the same trail as
Jeff (Maddron Bald) but we missed them by a couple of hours. I changed clothes, cleaned up a little, and
went in search of the Maddron Bald trailhead, going completely on memory
several years old. Luckily I recognized
road names and landmarks. After a short
wait, Jeff stumbled up with tired, sore feet and was ready to go home. Me too.
I knew that this weekend would be hard, hard work…and it
was. Yet for all that physical effort
and discomfort, the feeling of being on a trail was as uplifting and transformative
as always. I don’t know if I will ever
go bushwhacking again without a specific challenge goal, but I hope I can keep
hiking the trails forever.
Thanks, Jeff.
Wouldn’t take nothin' for my
journey now. ~Jimmie Davis
2 comments:
Congrats on reaching 7 summits! Yes, I'm not a fan of bushwacking either. Especially through wet underbrush. But like you I love the wild rhodies! Really enjoyed the stories from your latest trip.
great post mom! i am proud of u.
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