South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 1 – Norbeck Dam to French Creek Horse Camp

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 1
Norbeck Dam to French Creek Horse Camp

6/5/23 – 17.1 Miles

New day, new start: Centennial Trail, here we come for real this time! Bridget, our overnight host, trail angel and shuttle driver extraordinaire, drove us to the southern terminus at Norbeck Dam Trailhead in Wind Cave National Park. The ride followed a winding route as part of Bridget’s day supporting folks on the trail. First we picked up a hiker at Bear Butte State Park, the northern terminus, and dropped him at Sheridan Lake. We delivered gear to backpackers at Legion Lake. Nancy and I will be passing all these places on our thru-hike.

Experiencing the “advance” tour with Bridget was priceless. She was full of information and tips, how to act when encountering bison, be sure to ask the camp hosts at French Creek horse camp if we can tent there, on and on. She is a super passionate supporter of the trail and hikers.

Bridget snapped a quick photo, hollered, “Call me if you need ANYTHING!” and was gone.

Here we go! First up, 6 miles through Wind Cave National Park. Since we’re not camping within the park, we skipped checking in at the Visitor Center (I’ll get back to it another day.) Read all about Wind Cave (Is there a cave? Is there wind?) at the official NPS site here, more history and area information here.

The Centennial Trail follows Trail 89 markers…except when it doesn’t. For example, in Wind Cave NP it is Trail 6. If there is no 89, follow the 6.

Fun fact: The Centennial Trail number “89” comes from the date of South Dakota’s statehood, 1889. The trail was built in 1989 to mark the 100th anniversary.

The guidebook cautions hikers to be alert for trail signs. “Buffalo rub against the posts
and knock them down.”

From our very first steps we were captivated by the landscape as the trail wandered through wide open spaces punctuated by tall rock outcrops.

Well, even after reading about tricky intersections in the middle of open prairie, Nancy and I took a wrong turn and went nearly a mile in the wrong direction before stopping to check our maps and apps (I had downloaded offline maps from GAIA and Avenza). We navigated cross-country to get back on track. 

Lesson learned on Day 1: check navigation often!

At Highland Creek, we passed through a gate that separates Wind Cave NP and Custer State Park. Bridget had regaled us with a story about dropping off hikers here last week amid a bison herd swarming the gate – no herd today, thank you very much!

Our long-ago original plan was to hike these first six miles, pass through the gate, and stealth camp somewhere around here. The revised plan meant we had to keep going. This didn’t look like a good place to camp anyway, but we did stop to filter water at Highland Creek.

Water issues can be the biggest challenge of thru-hiking the Centennial Trail. A lot of resources are devoted to identifying water sources and a Facebook page updates the flow – such good trail support, all from fellow hikers and local folks! We never had issues with water, plenty was flowing for us.

Nine miles to go

Custer State Park is a premiere destination in the Black Hills, 71,000 acres, four historic lodges, nine campgrounds, hundreds of miles of trails, and did I mention the bison? Two weeks wouldn’t be enough time to explore and enjoy this marvelous park.

Shortly after we entered the park, we passed through several prairie dog towns, minding our manners to stay on the path and not go tromping around in their communities. The residents popped up from their holes as we walked through, barking warnings to their neighbors that humans were afoot.

The trail changed to a two-lane forest road winding through sparse ponderosa pine ascending, first gently, then more steeply as we left the live trees behind and passed through an old burn area. The grasses have recovered but it’s going to be a long time for the trees.

Heating up in full sun now, no shade anywhere

A prairie rattlesnake – this big fella jumped and so did we!

And a gopher snake, longer than the rattlesnake! Glad Nancy is in front of me.

At last, a patch of woods again

An antelope playing (no deer friends, though)

Looking down at Wildlife Loop Road in the valley (still in Custer State Park), cars were stopped to look at a small bison herd grazing on both sides of the road. The trail took us further down the valley away from the herd where it was safe to cross the road.

Nancy checking in with civilization

Nearing French Creek Horse Camp, I was feeling knackered and a little confused as we intersected with dirt roads (did we stray from the trail?) The camping section for hikers wasn’t obvious, supposedly at the far end of the horse camp? We walked slowly past the corrals, cabins and comfy campsites, and nearly swooned at the sight of a bathhouse with flushing toilets, hot showers and electricity.

The camp host drove by in her golf cart and, remembering Bridget’s advice, we asked if we could set up tents. She kindly pointed out a sweet broad grassy area near the creek, complete with picnic tables. What a relief to end our long first day in such comfort! 

Cooking our first meal on our adventure

On the banks of French Creek (on the other side of the fence)

Day 1 Centennial Trail wildlife checklist: Bison, prairie dogs, two big ol’ snakes, and an antelope.

What will tomorrow bring?

Home, home on the range

Where the deer and the antelope play

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day

*Original poem “My Western Home”
 by Dr. Brewster Higley
[read more here]

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 2 - French Creek Horse Camp to Mount Rushmore Overlook

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 2
French Creek Horse Camp to Mount Rushmore Overlook
6/6/23 – 17.1 Miles

Rise and shine!

Woke up with early sun, sore muscles and soft spots where my new backpack rubs (not surprising, I think I’ll get used to it). As Nancy sipped her coffee, I made an effort to eat breakfast to keep my calorie intake up. Carrying 5 days’ worth of food, every little bit in my stomach means a lighter load on my back!

An ambition day ahead, still trying to shake the aftershock of our delayed start. We had only an idea of where to camp tonight. Our rough plan was to hike past Legion Lake (our intended campsite) and Iron Creek Horse Camp and look for a soft place to land near the side trail to Mount Rushmore. (Yes, we are going to Mount Rushmore!) Paying attention to water sources will be important. Ideally we’ll find a suitable spot not far past Grizzly Bear Creek and be set up to conquer Mount Rushmore first thing in the morning on Day 3.

The guidebook I’m using, Hiking Centennial Trail, 2nd Edition, includes detail of alternates routes during high water like French Creek, which was flowing merrily past our campsite. Since it was running clear water and within its banks, we didn’t really consider the alternative route. Will we get our feet wet? Oh, yeah.

You’ve been warned, don’t make us come and get you!
In reality, French Creek Natural Area is 12 miles wide east to west, and we crossed it in just
 a little over one mile south to north, along its western boundary.

French Creek flowing along the base of a rock outcrop

First refreshing crossing of the day

Morning sun lighting up the hills - second crossing

Another reptile traveler (Nancy’s trail name is now “Snake Charmer”)

The trail began to climb, winding through pine forest, and Nancy went ahead as I plodded slow and steady. At a faint intersection, I stopped to check my GAIA and Nancy reappeared, backtracking to ascertain our direction. Once we agreed on the way forward, we found ourselves on a very disagreeable steep, rocky grade.

Referred to by some as Hell’s Hill, but others say this is an improved reroute (what??)

At the top of this “hill” we stopped, me to gasp for breath, Nancy to admire the view. A man and woman were also stopping there and we got acquainted. Husband “Sticks” and wife “Bug Bite” hailed from Tennessee and were also thru-hiking the CT. [Sticks is a 2010 AT thru-hiker.] Our conversations continued as we hiked on towards Legion Lake, and eventually Nancy and I pulled ahead.

So far today, navigation had been straightforward, trail signs appearing where we needed them, but as we got closer to Legion Lake things got complicated. The main trail circumvents the lake altogether, going around its western edge, but we wanted to have lunch at the Lodge on the eastern shore (one of Bridget’s stops on our “tour”…just yesterday?)

Many trails intersect in this area, and as we crossed Heddy Draw Horse Trail we realized that our paper maps and GAIA showed different routes. In fact, the CT had several variations going around both sides of Legion Lake! We parsed out the shortest distance to the Lodge, and before you could say “I’d like a milkshake with that,” we settled at a table with salads as Sticks and Bug Bite arrived to join us. 

Nancy approaching Legion Lake Lodge

Kayakers on Legion Lake

Super salads

Me, Nancy, Sticks and Bug Bite

So far, we were 6.3 miles into what would end up as a 17.1-mile day. We said goodbye to our thru-hiker friends and walked through the Legion Lake campground to connect with the main Centennial Trail.

Getting closer to the northern boundary of Custer State Park, the trail switches between single-track trail and two-lane logging roads, more sun exposure than yesterday. This ain’t the “green tunnel” hiking we have back in NC.

Granite pinnacles

Trying out my hiking umbrella, a game-changer in that strong sun!

At Iron Creek Horse Camp, the CT leaves Custer State Park and enters Black Elk Wilderness. It is the only designated wilderness area in Black Hills National Forest and is named for Oglala Lakota holy man Black Elk, as is nearby Black Elk Peak, the high point of South Dakota. These lands are sacred to the Lakota people. [Later in my SD adventures I have the opportunity to hike to the summit of Black Elk Peak.]

The change in land management practices is evident as the terrain changes, large rocks part of trail-building, narrow muddy horse trails, and occasional trail markers cut into tree trunks. Use of any motorized or mechanized equipment is prohibited in wilderness areas – no chainsaws to remove large trees – and I was impressed that we didn’t run into any significant obstacles during our hike through this stretch. [That means the trail maintenance crews are keeping up with blowdowns.] I found myself enjoying this part of the hike, thinking of Linville Gorge Wilderness back home. 

Around three miles past Iron Creek Horse Camp I hopped a small creek and mounted a switchback to find Nancy waiting for me with a tentative grin on her face. “What do you think about this as a campsite?” I looked around and, indeed, there were a couple of flat spots. I hadn’t expected to stop here, but Nancy has good instincts. Then she pointed through the trees to a granite mountain range…Faces? Presidential faces?

We were on a little rise so there was no water source, but if we stayed here, Nancy offered, she could backtrack to the small creek and collect water for the two of us. A bargaining chip – did she think I would say, “Nah, I don’t feel like camping with some guys looking at us”?? Well...okay.

We set up tents, carried our food and stoves to a rock outcrop view of the big guys, and ate dinner by twilight. [Nancy’s photos below.]

Our campsite

Fine dining

Light show glow on Mt Rushmore

Next morning's view of Mt Rushmore from our campsite

Much gratitude to Nancy for choosing this site! A reminder that you can plan for months, but being open to what nature shows you makes the most special memories.

“Peace will come to the hearts of men when they realize their oneness with the universe.
 It is everywhere.”
 ~Black Elk

South Dakota: Centennial Trail - The Plan & Arrival Day

South Dakota: Centennial Trail - The Plan & Arrival Day – 6/4/23

Raise your hand if you’ve got a bookmarked list of long hiking trails, the stuff of yearning, sauntering off into the wild with a clear weather forecast, a loaded backpack and a light heart. Many of those adventures are in the “daydreaming-only” category, some are in the “maybe-someday” category, and probably two or three are in the “I-must-do-this” category. The rankings are very scientific: how does hearing the name of that trail make me feel?

The Centennial Trail in South Dakota caught my attention in 2022, in an area of the U.S. that I’ve never visited. It stretches 124 miles between Wind Cave National Park in the south and Bear Butte State Park in the north, traversing Black Hills National Forest, the Black Elk Wilderness, and Custer State Park. Fun fact: the trail passes within one mile of Mount Rushmore National Memorial.

The varied terrain of prairie grasslands and Black Hills High Country intrigued me, and roaming buffalo and prairie dogs sounded pretty cool. As I read more about the history of indigenous peoples in the Black Hills, I felt the pull of the land beyond the CT. I began planning a thru-hike with extra days to explore the southwest corner of South Dakota.

I highly recommend the book Hiking Centennial Trail, 2nd Edition, and the Hiking SD Centennial Trail Facebook page as invaluable resources. *NOTE: There is also a Centennial Trail in Idaho/Washington State – if you want to go, make sure it’s the right one!

A 9-day solo backpacking trip was a stretch for me and I was determined to channel Eleanor Roosevelt to “do one thing every day that scares you.” BUT when my good friend Nancy East expressed interest in joining me, I thanked the universe for giving me an experienced, good-natured, certified search-and-rescue partner for the journey. My hubby Jim was glad too!

The night before our departure, Nancy and I spent a couple of hours making final decisions on gear – what can we do without? We’d each shipped a food resupply box ahead to the midpoint, but otherwise this was a hike with few options for second thoughts.

I carried more than the usual trail jitters with me to the airport. We checked our bags of hiking gear and listened to announcements as our direct flight to Rapid City was delayed (more time to stir up those jitters.)

Finally – here we go!

Well, we arrived in Rapid City but my backpack didn’t come through baggage claim – what? Texts came from the airline that my bag would be on a “future flight.” In fact, it was winging its way to Dallas, TX because who the heck knows why?

I became flustered, and Nancy was very helpful in calmly tracking the bag (new meaning for “search-and-rescue”). Its estimated arrival time to Rapid City: 9:00 pm.

We will not be starting our hike today.

Our shuttle driver, Jon, picked us up at the airport and quickly switched gears to help us out. He and his wife Bridget, owners of Roam'n Around Travel & Outdoor Gear, are the nicest trail angels of the hiking world I have ever met! They shuttle and support hikers all up and down the Centennial Trail. They invited us to stay at their house instead of a hotel (yes!) and took care of us in more amazing ways as we waited for my backpack to show up.

Nancy and I spent an unexpected but delightful day walking around Rapid City, checking out the splash park at Main Street Square and Prairie Edge, a combination art gallery and Native trading post. We found Silver Lining Creamery and Firehouse Brewing Company (did you doubt it?)

A pre-hike toast

Roam’n Around was closed on Sunday but we’ll be back!

Main Street Square in Rapid City

We hung out at Jon and Bridget’s house, learning about their love for their city and the trail, stories of hikers in seasons past, and what we were about to jump into. At 9:00 pm Jon drove me back to the airport and my pack arrived intact from Dallas – relief! Or is it?

We will begin our thru-hike of the Centennial Trail at the southern terminus in Wind Cave National Park tomorrow morning, but we’ve lost our 6-mile “head start” today. Tear up the game plan and begin again!

Looking back, losing my pack was an enormous blessing.  All my planning was derailed, upended, and altered to something better than I could have ever envisioned. 

“… and that has made all the difference.”

 ~Robert Frost