Not as many photos today as Jim and I spent most of our time eyes-on-our-footing navigating over boulder fields and slippery climbs. The shorter distance took some of the mental pressure off, but our guidebooks still considered the route to be challenging. Yet another outstanding day on the Alta Via 1.
We set out from Rifugio Vazzoler in the chilly early morning. The sun was just beginning to peek over the eastern peaks, spotlighting Torre Venezia. All else dozed in deep shadow. As we walked down the gravel road, we got into a deep conversation about being able to look at a mountain for hours, what is it about nature that fascinates, how can we spend more time outside for our mental health? We tabled the discussion in favor of enjoying the moment.
The AV1 turned off the gravel road onto Trail #554 and our big climb of the day to Forcella Col dell’Orso commenced, alternating between deep forest – felt so good to walk on dirt! – and scree/boulder fields with cairns to mark the way.
We enjoyed the shade for a while longer. Now that we’re at lower altitude, the sun will be pretty hot when it reaches us.
Our sights were set on the forcella…but to our dismay, the high point we were heading to was false. At the turn we saw the “real” pass still far away. Boulder fields became harder to navigate as the trail contoured around the flanks of the Moiazza mountain range. Blazes and cairns were scarce as we crept carefully over and around large boulders.
The last pitch was crazy steep, loose slippery scree, taking all my concentration. A man appeared at the top of the section and proceeded to barrel his way down. I yelled and waved my hands for him to wait until I reached the top. There was no safe way for him to pass me and I was unwilling to step aside or stop. (Seriously? Rant over).
After the final short, steep, exposed scramble, the forcella was not a place to stand and celebrate. Unlike other passes we’ve encountered, this was simply a very narrow low point bridged by tree roots…yes, tree roots.
Repeat, repeat, repeat: the trail passed through dwarf pines and soft dirt and open boulder fields at the feet of towering splinters of rock overlooking Busa del Camp far below. Then out of nowhere we reached the edge of a pasture valley and the ruins of Casera del Camp. Woohoo! We’re close to Forcella del Camp.
An extended break was called for (eat, drink, breathe, pee, sunscreen, adjust backpacks). Looking across the valley, I was enamored by the scene: a tree-covered slope with a sheer rock face on the left side and a tiny dairy farm at the edge of the valley. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if that was our rifugio for tonight? But miles to go before we sleep.
Forcella del Camp was an easy traverse between Busa del Camp and Val del Cantoi, followed by a blessed downhill stretch, still mostly rocks and some exposed areas. Rifugio Carestiato (our lunch stop) was about an hour away.
We felt we were “nearly there” when the GPS took us off the wide track to a narrow track through dwarf pine woods – good shade, but are we climbing again? Where did the trail markers go? Does the GPS say we are on track? Is this a shortcut to Rifugio Carestiato? Shorter distance does not mean shorter time if it is steep. Jim and I were not amused.
Suddenly we popped out of the trees beside the deck of the rifugio. This was the correct way after all! The deck was packed with people.
Ana and Carlos were at a table by the deck. They’re staying there tonight but have to wait until 3:00 pm to check in. (Steve and Emily are also staying here.) We squeezed in with them and ordered a Coke for Jim, a Fanta for me, and two sandwiches, but I had little appetite. Cheese and ham on dry bread is sometimes literally hard to swallow.
Again I brought up the subject of the “knife edge” coming up tomorrow, weighing heavily on my mind. Ana and Carlos didn’t know anything about it either, but we figured we would all find out.
Our rifugio for the night – Passo Duran C Tomé – was 45 minutes further, part rugged road and part deep dirt track. During our planning, I was confused by the name but eventually understood that Passo Duran is the mountain pass and C (Cesare) Tomé is the rifugio. It sits by a paved road and is a favorite of motorcyclists and other travelers. The main floor is a café and the floor beneath is for overnight guests, two rooms with a total of 16 bunk beds.
Passo Duran C ToméWe were early, the cafe was very busy, and the young manager, Mark, was not ready to check us in. We strolled over to Rifugio Sebastiano next door, hoping they had good wifi. (They did not.) We cooled our heels, wet our whistles and shared a strudel.
Mark eventually showed us the bunkrooms and the one shower that had unlimited free hot water – yay! We were keen to take showers before other hikers rolled in. Jim went first and screamed…no hot water. He finally withstood the cold to get clean. My turn: I tried, managed only to lean over and get my hair wet, the water so cold it hurt my scalp. When something sounds too good to be true…
We hand washed clothes and hung them out in the sun to dry.
Emily and Erin soon arrived. We hadn’t seen them all day. They took cold showers and the four of us settled on the deck to let our hair dry and have adult beverages. As we were hanging out, a propane gas truck pulled up.
The building had run out of fuel, no cooking, no hot water
Chin chin!
“The hardest mountain to climb is the one within.”
~J. Lynn
