Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower - Fini, Finito, Terminado

Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower – 1/17/15 – 11 Miles

Haven’t been there before, two maps that don’t quite agree, don’t know what trail conditions are like, a long drive to and from:  all good prerequisites for an adventurous exploratory Carolina Berg Wanderers hike.  I posted my desire to hike to the Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower on the Bergs Meetup page and got a good response from a cross-section of hikers.  To my amazement, even the “old-timers” had never done this hike before.  We would truly all be “first-timers.”

Why Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower?  It’s my last hike to complete the Lookout Tower Challenge.

Where is Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower?  It sits just a smidge away from the Appalachian Trail, 20 trail miles north of Hot Springs, NC.  There are several ways to reach it:  hike north or south on the AT, of course, or drive close to it via a Tennessee access road, or (my choice) hike a few miles on a lollipop route originating on a North Carolina gravel road in Pisgah National Forest.

Nine hikers tumbled out of cars at the trailhead, pulling on boots, opening trekking poles, deciding on layers (how cold does it feel?  How long until I warm up?).  The sky was deep blue and the trail was waiting.

Off to a grand start on an impressive multi-section bridge (Jeff's photo)

A few obstacles on Hickey Fork Trail, but overall conditions were better than I expected

The trail climbed alongside the West Prong of Hickey Fork Creek for about 1.5 miles.  It was not at all tempting to go down this waterslide

At the bottom of the slide, I’m looking skeptical

Hard to see even in wintertime with minimal foliage, but Jeff got a good photo anyway – a 30-foot unnamed waterfall on West Prong of Hickey Fork

Icy chill

Once the trail left the creek the serious climbing started, at times crazy steep to the point where swear words were necessary to stay motivated.  The only two short switchbacks were near Seng Gap; 20 switchbacks would have been helpful.  But this is a national forest, not a national park, and different guidelines for trail building and maintenance apply. 

On a steep trail it’s imperative to stop often to enjoy the view

Seng Gap was confusing with five intersecting trails and required some thought to choose the correct one, even using the guidebook narrative, because signage was missing.  This was the end of Hickey Fork Trail and we turned right onto Pounding Mill Trail, still going up but at a more moderate grade.

About a mile later we reached another inter- section, this one at White Oak Flats Trail.  We took a short break to gather everyone together and make note that on the return hike this would be the decision point for a loop back to the car or just go back the way we came.  We were plenty warmed up by now. (Jeff's photo)

The climbing wasn’t over.  In fact, the total hike to the lookout tower is 5.5 miles and 3,000 feet elevation gain.  That is a serious workout, but isn’t it better outdoors than in a gym?  Jennifer, who was hiking with us for the first time in almost a year, began to lag behind a tiny bit, worrying about being last.  Mike hung with her and encouraged her, reminding her that she would arrive at the same place as everyone else just a few minutes later (true). 

I hiked alone for the last mile until the trail reached the AT, where I paused to wait for Mike, Jeff and Jennifer.  A little hiker humor here.

When they reached the sign, Jennifer decided to stop and eat there rather than push on the last .2 miles to the tower, a smart decision because she knew her body needed the fuel.  We continued on and checked out the tower amidst all the communication junk. 

The tower cab was locked so we were only able to climb up the stairs.  A stiff wind was blowing and I struggled to hold my camera still.  

Mike and me at Camp Creek Bald Lookout Tower – challenge completed!

We found the rest of the crew eating lunch behind a service building in a spot protected from the wind.  And who should appear but Jennifer, well fed and feeling better!  She confessed that today was the first time she had stepped onto the Appalachian Trail.  No wonder she stopped to eat there and have a private moment.

Perusing the guidebook’s trail map (much more detailed than the NatGeo #782 map), we decided to try a short alternate route back to Pounding Mill Trail.  We hiked south on the AT for about a half-mile (Jennifer’s first hike on the AT!) and then left the trail to bushwhack.  (Wintertime is the right time for bushwhacking.)  In less than a hundred yards we connected with Pounding Mill Trail, cutting off more than a mile, and enjoyed the downhill back to the intersection with White Oak Flats. 

At that junction everyone opted to take White Oak Flats, making the loop of the lollipop route and avoiding the steepest section we had climbed.  White Oak Flats is a longer trail, so we added back the mile we had cut off, but with a more gentle descent.  I assumed that this trail would be similar to the other trails we had seen so far, but I was wrong.  It started out along an old forest road, but soon dropped off onto a much narrower, less distinct trail.  Wasn’t hard to follow, just a different character, a lesson not to ever make assumptions in the woods.

White Oak Flats Trail (Jeff's photo)

The trail ended at FS 465 facing a 1.4-mile walk to our cars.  Although it was a flat walk, it felt like a lot more than 1.4 miles.  The last mile is always the longest because at the end of a hike your pace slows down without realizing it. 

We finished the hike with some daylight left before 5:00 p.m., which made me very happy, no injuries, everyone accounted for and ready for Mexican food.  Bring on the margaritas!

And will the next hiking challenge please stand up?

“I am always more interested in what I am about to do than what I have already done.”  ~Rachel Carson

Chambers Mountain Lookout Tower

Chambers Mountain Lookout Tower – 3.8 Miles – 1/2/15

On New Year’s Day I like to hang around the house with my blanket and a cup of coffee and the newspaper.  I break out my new calendar, writing in birthdays and anniversaries and other activities already planned.  I daydream about travel and projects, looking at last year’s list and creating new lists.  It’s a very chill day. 

On January 2, though, I’m ready for a little adventure.  Let’s pull out that lookout tower challenge list.  Chambers Mountain looks like a long-ish drive and a short hike, but that’s okay with me. 

The goal of these lookout tower hikes isn’t necessarily the hike but the view and I have found the rewards to be mixed.  Sometimes all you get is a bunch of communication towers cluttered around.  Sometimes the view is just phenomenal (like Panther Top).  Well, Chambers Mountain is worth the hike on the gravel road – heck, even the hike is worth the hike. 

The Chambers Mountain fire tower was erected in 1934 and is one of only two in western NC that is still routinely staffed.  The operator lives in a small house at the base of the tower.  

Lookout Point, the gravel access road to the tower, is just a few miles from Clyde, NC.  I wedged my car into the single wide spot near the locked gate and prepared for a solitary walk up the mountain on this chilly Friday.  As I shouldered my pack, I heard a car – wait, make that three minivans loaded with people.  They pulled up and a cheerful woman hopped out and unlocked the gate.  She said that they had a cabin nearby and asked for the key to the gate so many times that the Forest Service finally just gave them one.  They were going to drive up to the tower and walk down.  Huh.

I ate their dust as I slowly walked up the road cutting through open pastures.  I haven’t hiked since early November.  The last couple of months involved more work hours and eating large quantities of holiday food.  Moving at a sustainable pace, breathing the crisp air, lost in my thoughts, I finally remembered to lift my head and take a look around. 

Cow corral

I walked backwards until the road dipped back into the trees, soaking in the view.  How can you get enough of this? 

Near the summit I encountered the crowd that had driven up, must have been a dozen of them, an extended family of grandparents, parents, children.  They cheerfully greeted me and I told them that they weren’t working hard enough, a good laugh all around…but I meant it.  At least I had the place to myself again. 

When the tower farm came into view I could see the lowly fire tower towards the back of the bunch as I walked the curving road. The resident dog began to bark with all his might from his chain link pen.  He was just doing his job as guard dog, but this fellow seemed capable of getting over that fence – which was between me and the tower steps.  I didn’t want to antagonize him further by walking within five feet of him.  A truck was parked at the house and I waited for the tower operator to come out to check the alarm being raised, but after several minutes no one appeared.  Either he wasn’t there or he saw me from a window and didn’t perceive me to be a problem. 

I didn’t try to go up the tower, but instead enjoyed the view with the incessant barking soundtrack. 

Walking back down the road was equally awesome.  At one of the switchbacks I saw an old fence with an opening and steps and some extra barbed wire. 

Some locals had moved into the pasture while I was up top.  They didn’t mind posing.

All queued up

A four-mile hike and a four-hour drive, not something I would do every day, but it was a great kick-off to a new year.  I’d like to visit this place again in spring or fall (definitely not summer).  One more fire tower to go to finish the challenge! 

"Write it on your heart that every day is the best day of the year."  ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

Snowbird Creek Confusion and Panther Top Lookout Surprise

Snowbird Creek Waterfalls and Panther Top Lookout Tower – 9/3/14 - 12 miles

Jim and I spent another day in the far, far western parts of North Carolina hiking in a place with a pretty name:  Snowbird Creek in the Snowbird Mountains of Nantahala National Forest. 

Resources for this hike:  Hiking North Carolina’s National Forests, a new book this year by Johnny Molloy and North Carolina Waterfalls, a well-used guidebook by Kevin Adams.  [I highly recommend both.]  Each book has a different perspective and varying routes for our hike and I carried photocopies of both.  Adams refers to the Forest Service’s Snowbird Area Trail Map but I couldn’t locate one, so I carried my NatGeo map.  We needed all the help we could get.  Being prepared can mean the difference between a safe return and a search party. 

The trailhead is remote, turn right, turn left, etc. on backroads beyond Robbinsville, NC and then 4 miles of gravel on FR 75 following Snowbird Creek upstream to a dead end.  Along the way there are sites for a nice car camp base.  I made a mental note of them in the event of a return trip.

Snowbird Creek was roaring loudly at every turn, “dirty” whitewater from last night’s big rain, and I pondered the multiple crossings described in Molloy’s narrative. 

Fixing to get ready to go.  One car was already there.  And right at the parking area I pulled out the hiking guides to solve my first dilemma:  left trail or right trail?  Neither was marked.  Answer:  stay left. 

Following fresh boot prints on what we now knew was Big Snowbird Trail, we knew someone was ahead of us, and after a mile we caught up to two backpacking fishermen, retired.  They were familiar with the area and gave a little background on what was ahead up to the big bridge and camping area.   

The first miles were on a gentle grade logging road, plenty wet, and followed the creek on up the mountain. 

An obvious waypoint stands at 2.5 miles, a rusted old vehicle nicknamed the getaway car displaying multiple bullet holes.  As Snowbird Creek flows strong on the right, Sassafrass Creek comes in from the left to join it – not a small tributary, a tricky wide rock hop. 

After another mile we began to look for a side path on the right to Big Falls.  The side path was a very steep scramble down (Jim looked at me like I had lost my mind) but we did it.  More brown tinted water from the volume of water scouring away the creek banks.

We scrambled back to the main trail and a minute later found a second faint side trail to the right.  Turned out to be another vantage point of Big Falls, a many-tiered cascade.  

At 3.9 miles we crossed Snowbird Creek on a big sturdy bridge and entered a large campsite area.  [Pay attention, this will help you if you ever decide to check out these waterfalls].  This is where the two hike narratives differed.  Molloy’s route sticks with Big Snowbird Trail up to Middle Falls, including eight fords of the creek.  From what we’d seen of the water flow, Jim and I were interested in alternatives.  Adams acknowledges that although Big Snowbird Trail is the most direct route, finding the trail on the far bank at each creek crossing is challenging.  He suggests Middle Falls Trail, which stays on the right side of the creek, bypasses all the crossings, and ties back into Big Snowbird Trail near Middle Falls.  That’s what we elected to do.  But which one of the trails is Middle Falls?  No signage and multiple false starts to camping areas kept us guessing for about 20 minutes.  We ultimately knew we were on the right trail because, as Adams describes, it starts with “an absurdly steep climb for about .2 miles before moderating.” 

Indian cucumber root berry

Delicate rippling lichen

Middle Falls Trail was a mile long and surprisingly well maintained…until it wasn’t.  A vague cutoff to connect to Big Snowbird was difficult to follow but thankfully very short.  After a quick left turn and a little backtracking, we found Middle Falls. 

What a treat!  Middle Falls, very full and noisy, all ours

And that water was c-o-l-d!

Two waterfalls so far, one more to find:  Sassafras Falls.  From this point we relied on Molloy’s trail description to complete a loop.  His cautions and warnings that “if navigation and faint trail tracking aren’t your thing, consider returning to the trailhead from Middle Falls” turned out to be (do I hear Alanis Morrisette?) good advice that we just didn’t take.  

We could not avoid fording Snowbird Creek.  Jim dashed across in bare feet, which was my turn to freak out because the water was very swift and deep and I couldn’t see the bottom.  I painstakingly removed my boots and socks and put on Crocs, then looked up and down and up again for a good place to cross.  At the edge I stuck my hiking poles in to test the depth and the water grabbed one of them from my hand and pulled it downstream.  No time to react, but I certainly wasn’t going to run after it anyway.  Then here comes Jim, prancing back across the water as though he was going to swim for it.  He is uber cautious about scrambling down a hill but will risk breaking a leg in a creek.  Jeez.

After crossing (Jim for the third time) we tried to pick up faint Burntrock Ridge Trail.  We followed something for about a quarter mile, crossed what we thought must be Littleflat Branch Creek, but after that the land didn’t seem to match up with either the trail map or Molloy’s description.  We saw flagging tape on a few trees, but the last one was on a limb on the ground at a big ditch with no discernible path through a rhododendron hell that was impenetrable.  We worked for a half hour before admitting defeat. 

The completer in me was offended and disappointed, but time was ticking and the safest course was to turn back.  We had spent four hours and were facing a five-miler back to the car.   The hike back was a march, me going very fast to get it over with.  Hiking with just one pole felt lopsided. 

On the return we saw the two backpacking fishermen at their campsite at the bridge and told them about our failed attempt.  They had no experience that far up the trail and no advice to offer.  I noticed half a dozen Mountain House meals and lots of Ramen noodle packets spread out on a log near their campfire.  How long are you guys staying out here?  Just overnight.

What – you think this day is over?  Nah. 

We reached the car much later than I had originally planned and thought we should call it quits, but Jim encouraged me to go for the Panther Top lookout tower, another on the challenge list based on Peter Barr's book Hiking North Carolina's Lookout Towers.  We drove an hour further west, beyond the town of Murphy, reaching the tower parking at 6:00 p.m.  Facing a .75-mile steep walk up yet another boring gravel road, I was hot and tired and not amused, but tried to appreciate that Jim was willing to do it.  

The unexpected reward:  the tower is the only structure, no communications clutter

With the late afternoon sun, the view was spectacular, blue rows of mountains... 

...and a storm on the horizon.  Wow. 

Worth the timing even though we got back to the cabin at last light, after 8:00 p.m.  Safe and sound.  I’m calling it a great day. 

“Just because it’s a bad idea doesn’t mean it won’t be a good time.”  ~Anonymous