South Dakota: Centennial Trail Northern Terminus at Bear Butte State Park

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Northern Terminus at Bear Butte State Park

8/12/23 – 2.9 Miles

On Saturday morning, Nancy shouldered her pack and continued her journey on the Centennial Trail. My new plan for the rest of my time in South Dakota included meeting her and her hiking buddy, Lynne, on Monday morning for the final push to the northern terminus - the summit at Bear Butte State Park. 

Again, what’s in a name?

The Lakota call this sacred mountain Mato Paha (Bear Mountain). Many Native Americans see Bear Butte as a place where the creator has chosen to communicate with them through visions and prayer. (Like many sites, there are sacred prayers cloths along the paths.) The geological term “butte” is an isolated hill with steep sides and a small, relatively flat top. So the white English settlers’ name that we all know is Bear Butte.

I hurried to get to the park ahead of our rendezvous time, but Nancy and Lynne had started walking at o’dark-thirty and entered the parking lot at the same time I did. They regaled me with stories of rain, mud, an early dawn patrol on maneuvers as the trail passed by Fort Meade, and cows that didn’t want to give the right-of-way. Those two hiked more than 50 miles in 2.5 days! An affirmation that we each made the right decisions for ourselves.

Lynne, me and Nancy – here we go!

Being aware of the weather forecast is essential – you don’t want to be on Bear Butte when thunderstorms and high winds come rushing across the plains. Being mindful of intense summer heat is also important. For a Centennial Trail thru-hiker, planning for a morning summit is the wisest choice. 

Lynne dumped some of her pack weight at the car and I carried a daypack,

but Nancy was fully loaded and on a mission

The Summit Trail curves around the east/north side of the mountain and then switchbacks steeply to the top on a narrow path of loose rock. I knew going down would be challenging, but the blue sky and puffy clouds and long views lifted my heart up.

Bear Butte Reservoir and campground below

Trail hugging the mountain

Sentinel tree

A wide flat platform at the top

We cruised triumphantly back to Rapid City, stopping for sodas and snacks, and dropped Lynne at her hotel. I had booked an Airbnb for the next two nights, so Nancy and I cleaned up and walked downtown for beer and food. We took the scenic route back and met some interesting fellows.

Do you know what Rapid City’s most popular attraction is? Presidential statues on every corner, created by different sculptors, each life sized and depicting some aspect of his life/service to our country. (Read all about them here and here.)

Nancy gives a high five to Barack Obama.
I'm so grateful for these adventures with my friend!

“If we can somehow keep alive a spark
 of adventure, then any expedition becomes
 more than a journey through wild country.
It becomes a shining challenge
 and an adventure of the spirit.”
 ~The Lonely Land by Sigurd F. Olsen

South Dakota: Bear Lodge (Devil's Tower National Monument) in Wyoming

South Dakota: Bear Lodge (Devil’s Tower National Monument) in Wyoming
6/11/23 – 3.3 Miles

What’s in a name? 

Devil’s Tower National Monument is a name most of us recognize, thanks to a white explorer’s incorrect interpretation of a Native American word in an 1875 book about the Black Hills. The book was popular and the name stuck, despite the fact that most prior maps and documents recorded the more accurate interpretation as Bear Lodge. This is one of many geologic features in the U.S. with Native American names that have been overwritten by European settlers.

Names matter. This sacred mountain rising from the plains of Wyoming is Bear Lodge (Mato Tipila). Go deep into the National Park Service website, click here and here, to read origin stories from Native American tribes throughout the region, including Arapaho, Cheyenne, Crow, Kiowa, Lakota, and Shoshone.

Continuing with my own story: After a luxurious night’s sleep (momentarily disrupted by a fire alarm) I woke to sunshine streaming through the windows and choices of how to spend the day. That Ford Expedition in the parking lot winked at me and we took off on I-90 towards Wyoming. Blue skies, near-empty roads, cruising at 80 mph…Thank you, Spirit, for this gift of time.

I had to pull over when I first saw Bear Lodge, imposing from many miles away. I was totally unprepared for this colossal monolith rising up out of the prairie.

Driving along the Main Park Road to the Visitor Center searching for a parking spot, I realized my sense of time was a little skewed – oh, this is a Sunday! I joined the throngs to walk the 1.8-mile Tower Trail loop around the base of Bear Lodge, observing that the National Park Service has put a lot of infrastructure in place to manage gobsmacked humans, including fences, directional signs and info signs about what you’re looking at.

As I noticed most people going counterclockwise, I intuitively chose the clockwise direction to avoid pacing myself with the crowd. (A tactic I learned at flea markets and Christmas fairs - you’re welcome!)

Whew! I took over 100 photos of the same subject, the sheer walls, the steep slope, the piles of boulders at the base. Here are a few:

Do you see "the window?"

Colorful bundles or strips of cloth were tied to trees all around the monument. They represent prayer offerings as a private, personal connection to the site. It is considered inappropriate to take photos.

June Voluntary Climbing Closure
(some people either ignored the request or didn’t read the sign…)

It's possible to escape the swarm around the tower’s base and hike along several trails to view Bear Lodge from a distance as part of the landscape. I walked the Joyner Ridge Trail, a 1.5-mile loop, enjoying solitude as I climbed up a small rocky ridgeline and descended into a shady ravine and then an open valley of flowers. 

View from the high point of Joyner Ridge Trail

Mariposa Lily

I sat down in a field and pondered this mysterious natural formation. Its energy drew me in like
nothing else I’ve ever experienced. I think I’ll be back.

Driving out of the park, I had to stop at Prairie Dog Town

A small disappointment today long the scenic route back to Rapid City…

the store in Aladdin was closed (because Sunday, y’all)

Just one more!

May the positive energy of the Universe

Surround you, flow through you

Bring Peace to your mind,

Love to your heart,

and Calm to your spirit

South Dakota: Centennial Trail Day 5 - Rapid Creek To Whispering Pines Campground

South Dakota:  Centennial Trail Day 5 – Rapid Creek to Whispering Pines Campground

6/9/23 – 7 Miles

I woke up unburdened, still resolute in my decision to end my Centennial Trail hike today. Nancy and I ate quickly, packed up, and stepped off quite early to beat stormy weather due this afternoon. Gratifying to see long shadows as we shouldered our packs, but don’t be fooled – we know rain is a-comin’!

Lest we think that we’ve put all the hard work behind us, early on the trail warmed us up climbing above Pactola Lake. Still in deep shadows.

Pactola Lake is the largest and deepest reservoir in the Black Hills. Read a little more here.

Boat launch at Pactola Lake

In a small, sweet meadow we took a break to enjoy the view

Cactus?

Nancy moving on

Following the now-familiar pattern of old logging roads and single track, the trail led us through open forest and meadows, showing off flowers and ponderosa pines.

Black henbane

Yellow salsify aka yellow goatsbeard

Nancy convinced me to sniff a ponderosa pine tree to see if it smells like vanilla

We’d heard tell of an unusual object on the trail, no signage or particular landmark to indicate its presence…if you’re looking at your feet you’ll miss it…

Yes, it’s a DISCO BALL! You know what to do now!

A good belly laugh in the middle of the woods

It’s easy to miss the turn-off to Deer Creek Trailhead even if there’s no disco ball distraction 

Here I said goodbye to the CT, silently promising myself that I can someday return
to pick up where I left off

Hello, Whispering Pines Campground!

Yesterday (just before the lightning storm) Nancy called and scored a last-minute cancellation for a cabin, so no pitching tents tonight. Check out their Facebook page for up-to-date info. 

Today we were greeted by Harley, the owner, and collected our resupply boxes, no longer necessary for me but imperative for Nancy. What was of utmost importance to me was a monster Mountain Dew from the icebox that I guzzled down immediately. 

Rushmore Cabin – hallelujah! A long walk to the bathhouse, but hot showers, laundry facilities,
a dry roof over our heads and a porch swing!

At the bathhouse I showered, put on clean clothes and started a load of laundry. A thunderstorm came through as I transferred my clothes to the dryer. I stood under the breezeway roof, safe and dry, listening to the rumble and watching the downpour flood the gravel drive alongside the RVs. How many more affirmations do I need that this is my stopping point?

What storm clouds?

Summer staffer Paula and her furry friend Maisy (because she is amazing) drove us to the Sugar Shack for takeout food. This iconic local joint is a much-anticipated stop for thru-hikers on the CT and a hub for the locals. [In December 2023 Sugar Shack was completely destroyed by fire, devastating to this rural community where neighbors support one another. They are now operating out of the Merritt General Grill. Plans for rebuilding are in the works.]

Nancy and I sat at our little picnic table by our cabin and enjoyed a wide-ranging conversation with our food and adult beverages. It was sad that our time on trail was ended but (no surprise) Nancy made a friend at the showers (Lynne) and they decided to hike on together to complete the trail. I felt very happy that she made this new connection, for companionship, speed, safety and fun. (She’ll finish the trail in 2 days, where I had estimated another 4 days for me.) We made plans to meet on Monday at Bear Butte State Park, the northern terminus of the trail, and we’ll summit together.

Nancy organized her gear to continue her hike while I contacted Roam’N Around for a shuttle pickup tomorrow morning. I also booked a room at Comfort Inn in Rapid City and rearranged my rental car that I had reserved for later in the week.

In the very early morning rain Nancy shouldered her pack and slipped out the cabin door. Bridget from Roam’n Around arrived mid-morning to pick me up - so happy to see her! (Read about our shuttle ride with Bridget to start the trail here.) She was transporting another solo woman (Dani) who was taking a day off for the rain, going back to stay at Bridget’s. The SUV was filled with chatter as we compared experiences on and off-trail.

Bridget and Dani dropped me at the Rapid City airport with all my stuff plus Nancy’s big duffel bag, which I wrangled into a massive Ford Expedition, very nice indeed for little ol’ me. At the Comfort Inn, I holed up with more sodas and candy bars and my resupply box, clean towels, a king size bed, more big fluffy pillows than anyone needs.

The hotel was full (Saturday night) with middle school age soccer teams in town for a tournament. At 2:00 am someone set off a fire alarm and we had to wait outside for the fire department to come and clear it.

BUT after that I was inside and warm and dry.

Instead of my planned 4 days post-hike, ahead of me now is 7 days of fun “roamin’ around” South Dakota before my return flight. What shall I do? Stay tuned.

“Another turning point, a fork stuck in the road

Time grabs you by the wrist, directs you where to go

So make the best of this test and don’t ask why

It’s not a question but a lesson learned in time

It’s something unpredictable, but then again is right

I hope you had the time of your life”

~ Green Day