Showing posts with label Cataloochee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cataloochee. Show all posts

Sunday, January 8, 2017

Smokies 900 Round 2: Cataloochee Ramble



Smokies 900 Round 2: Cataloochee Ramble - Caldwell Fork Trail & Big Fork Ridge Trail – 6/26/16 – 6.4 Miles

Frontcountry campgrounds (aka car camping) can be noisy places, dogs, kids, and adults who party late into the night as though no one else exists.  Okay, dogs and kids don’t bother me, but I have little patience (none) for adults who crank up the tunes, keep the fire stoked at chin height and holler every not-funny observation that occurs to them.  Not a fan of car camping.  But…this visit to Smokemont was very nice.  I met some calm neighbors who expressed surprise at a woman camping alone (some PR work still to be done there).  My tent site was as close as possible to Bradley Creek. Nighttime was as peaceful as could be. On Sunday morning I woke up at dawn-thirty, stretched, packed up and drove into Cherokee to meet my hiking buddy for the day. 

I’d met René (trail name “Legs”) as a hiker shuttle driver the previous fall and was fascinated by her freestyle spirit and life choices.  When I planned this trip to the Smokies, I threw the idea of a short dayhike out to her and she grabbed it. After a little bit of missing each other at our meeting spot (Peter’s Pancakes – I was inside eating a huge breakfast while she waited for me outside) we connected and created a hike plan. René had a shuttle pickup near Big Creek later in the day, so the decision to introduce her to Cataloochee Valley was easy.  We could have a ramble and she could pick up her hiker easily on time. 

It’s no secret that Cataloochee is my favorite part of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

1)      It is closest to where I live – 3 hours from my driveway to the campground
2)      Although smaller in acreage, its history and preserved buildings rival Cades Cove which is 5 hours from where I live – thus I repeat #1
3)      The valley was the stage for the successful reintroduction of elk to the area
4)      Hiking, hiking, hiking with lots of creeks
5)      Cataloochee Campground, snuggled up beside its robust namesake creek, is intimate (27 sites) and delightful (car camping, yes, but it never seems to get crazy)
6)      Great page-turner historical fiction about inhabitants of the valley by Wayne Caldwell Cataloochee and Requiem By Fire

We only had time for about 6 miles, but with two cars we were not limited to a loop or an out-and-back hike.  We dropped one car at the end of the valley road and backtracked to start at the trailhead of Caldwell Fork Trail.  Our route was Caldwell Fork Trail to Big Fork Ridge Trail to the valley road. 

The temperature was hot but the elevation gain was barely noticeable as we chatted nonstop following Caldwell Fork upstream.  It’s a popular horse trail with numerous creek crossings and there are log footbridges for hikers – except when there aren’t.  [Always check the GSMNP website before you hike to determine trail conditions, i.e. if bridges along your route are washed out.] Wading the creek was welcome in the heat of the day.

Downed trees are interesting challenges, not obstacles

Rhododendron blooms along Caldwell Fork

Our hike was over in a blink, but the clock was ticking and we had time to visit just one of the historic buildings in the valley: Beech Grove Schoolhouse. 

Who knows how long René will be in western North Carolina relishing her nomad life?  I am envious of her freedoms, but I realize that my life is pretty good, too.  I’m happy that this love of hiking enables my life to intersect with folks of different ages and interests.  Hope to see you on the trails again, Legs!

"When you try to control everything, you enjoy nothing. Sometimes you just need to relax, breathe, let go and live in the moment." ~Unknown









Thursday, August 25, 2011

Cataloochee Wild Women - Part 4 - The Woody House

Cataloochee Wild Women Weekend Part 4 – 5/23/11 – Rough Fork Trail to the Woody House

The sun rose for another spectacular day in Cataloochee and the wild women opted for leftovers for breakfast rather than the time-consuming process of making pancakes.  (Women always plan for more food than needed.)  Seemed like we had only just arrived, but it was already time to break camp and pack all that stuff back into the cars, maybe a little less carefully this time.  

Today I planned a shorter, easier hike on the Rough Fork Trail to visit the Woody House.  The total length of Rough Fork is 6.4 miles with a bit over 2,000 feet of elevation gain, but we were only hiking in the first mile over a very rocky road bed.  The excitement was in crossing Rough Fork several times on footbridges.  

Crossing a footbridge

Suzi and me modeling the latest hiker attire

As we walked the women constantly regrouped to chat with each other.  No one in this group knew everyone else before the weekend (except myself, of course) and I enjoyed so much seeing the interaction and new friendships forming.  A unique experience outdoors forms great bonds.  I must figure out a way to do this for a living.  

Joan, Ellen and Leida and lovely mountain laurel

Sometimes the trail is a creek

We explored the Woody House and its spring house, the only buildings remaining from an extensive farm.  The house began as a one-room cabin in the 1800’s and it grew as Steve Woody’s family grew, adding bedrooms, porches and a kitchen between 1901 and 1910.  Rough Fork flows past the front yard about 50 yards away.  I have visited this house numerous times and can never resist sitting on the front porch listening to that water bubbling, closing my eyes to imagine living there. 


We backtracked to our cars, and before leaving the valley we stopped to look at the Beech Grove School.  I had hoped to investigate a couple of cemeteries in the valley but time was against us.  I know I will be returning!  

Too soon we had to head for home, with stories and photos proving what wild women we were.  What made the weekend so successful?  One, perfect weather!  Two, women filled with eagerness and flexibility and open-mindedness.  Three, the Smokies magic that cannot be explained, only felt and treasured.

I have been so very fortunate to spend many nights with friends camping and hiking, and this will be forever one of my favorite trips.  The joy of watching someone experience the outdoors in a new way is inspirational to me and I want to do it again and again and again.

A good friend is a connection to life - a tie to the past, a road to the future, the key to sanity in a totally insane world.  ~Lois Wyse




Cataloochee Wild Women - Part 3 - Cooking Supper the Girl Scout Way

Cataloochee Wild Women Weekend Part 3 – 5/22/11 – Cooking Supper the Girl Scout Way

In my Girl Scout camping days, we would begin our supper food prep by eating a snack - yes, eating to prepare for eating because the process of outdoor cooking, from gathering ingredients and utensils to washing the last dish, takes about three hours.  And what else did we have to do tonight?  Nothin’.  So we pulled out all the stops and cooked a Girl Scout camping meal.

First up, making a box oven.  Baking in the outdoors is easy.  Starting with a copy paper box with a lid, I covered all the surfaces with heavy duty aluminum foil.  Then we set a foil pan in the bottom of the box to hold charcoal.  Next, we punctured the sides of the box and inserted wire coat hangers to make an oven rack (baking pan sits on top of this).  

Lynn mixed up the cornmeal muffins.

At our campfire ring I lit a ridiculous amount of charcoal and waited for it to burn down to white coals.  Each coal is about 40 degrees of heat.  We put 10-12 coals into the foil pan in the bottom of the box oven, then put in the muffin pan.  Next – a crucial step – we designated Cindy to be the timer for the muffins (about 20 minutes). 

Meanwhile, Suzi directed others to chop up veggies, zucchini, yellow squash, red and green bell peppers, onions, carrots and red potatoes.  She also cut up chicken breasts into bite-size pieces.  A little salt, pepper and oil for seasoning and the food was wrapped in separate foil packets and put on the hot coals in the fire ring.  (BTW, Suzi did all the food shoppping for our camping trip, for which we are eternally grateful.)

Meanwhile again, for dessert we created bear scat cake, known in domestic settings as black forest cake.  First we lined a 12-inch cast iron Dutch oven with heavy duty foil.  Then we dumped in a can of cherry pie filling.  Next we mixed up a boxed chocolate cake mix and dumped it on top of the pie filling.  Oops…forgot to add the oil?  No problem, pour it on top and gently stir, being sure not to disturb the cherries.  As Julia Child says, no apologies, no explanations. 

Cooking in a Dutch oven is also easy, regulating the temperature with hot coals.  We put about 10 coals underneath the pot, then 10 coals on the lid, to distribute the heat evenly.  I frequently replenished the coals to keep the heat consistent.  Again a wild woman was appointed as timer for the cake. 














Dinner is served! 
We shared some of the cake with our camping neighbors next door who had been watching us, forks at the ready. Then Lisa volunteered to finish it off.  That woman is a team player.

Corn muffins: $3.00 
Chicken/ veggies: $15.00 
 Bear scat cake: $6.00 
Supper around the campfire with wonderful wild women friends:  PRICELESS

"It's so beautifully arranged on the plate - you know someone's fingers have been all over it."  ~ Julia Child
"The best way to execute French cooking is to get good and loaded and whack the hell out of a chicken. Bon appétit." ~Julia Child